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Woodworking Hand Planes
Posted on 4/28/21 at 10:20 am
Posted on 4/28/21 at 10:20 am
Seems like we have several woodworkers on this board. I really need to take the leap and start getting some hand planes.
I have a cheap Stanley low angle block plane and a Woodriver shoulder plane for dialing in tenons, but often am in situations where I need something larger.
Going to start with a #5 Jack Plane. I would love to stumble upon a cheap antique Stanley that just needs to be cleaned up, but also don't feel like searching and dealing with all that. for the price on you find them online, it's not worth it. Wondering if I should bite the bullet and just get something like a Lie Nielson out the gate, or is there something worthwile for a bit less?
I have a cheap Stanley low angle block plane and a Woodriver shoulder plane for dialing in tenons, but often am in situations where I need something larger.
Going to start with a #5 Jack Plane. I would love to stumble upon a cheap antique Stanley that just needs to be cleaned up, but also don't feel like searching and dealing with all that. for the price on you find them online, it's not worth it. Wondering if I should bite the bullet and just get something like a Lie Nielson out the gate, or is there something worthwile for a bit less?
7
Posted on 4/28/21 at 10:44 am to Jon A thon
The Veritas hand planes get top reviews by Fine Wooding magazine, comparable to Lie Nielsen but they don’t give them away either but cheaper than Lie Nielsen’s last time I looked.
Admittedly it’s been awhile since I’ve purchased, but you could still buy old antique Stanley planes off eBay at good pricing, of course not the antique Stanley Bedrocks, which the Lie Nielsen is modeled after, and do cost as much a a new Lie Nielsen - almost impossible to find a deal on those.
Admittedly it’s been awhile since I’ve purchased, but you could still buy old antique Stanley planes off eBay at good pricing, of course not the antique Stanley Bedrocks, which the Lie Nielsen is modeled after, and do cost as much a a new Lie Nielsen - almost impossible to find a deal on those.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 10:52 am to CrawDude
Veritas seems to only make a low angle jack plane though. I'd rather a standard angle frog. I see good things about the Wood River planes, but that's 220 bucks. Still a big jump to get to the 350 dollar Lie Nielson, but then I'd have a lifetime tool.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 12:59 pm to Jon A thon
quote:
350 dollar Lie Nielson, but then I'd have a lifetime tool.
No doubt about that, but how’s the saying go “buy once, cry once”?
Posted on 4/28/21 at 2:14 pm to Jon A thon
Love them be make sure you have a good sharpening system to keep th m sharp
Posted on 4/28/21 at 2:38 pm to Jon A thon
I have a benchdog No.5 hand plane. I like it a lot
Posted on 4/28/21 at 3:37 pm to Jon A thon
Get a number 4 first.
I have a several stanleys though none are Bedrocks.
The number 4 that I use the most is my Lie Nielsen number 4
Actually I use my Lie Nielsen low angle block plane the most. I use it in pretty much every project.
Ast to sharpening, I use a granite block and automotive sandpaper with a good Lee Valley sharpening jig.
I have a several stanleys though none are Bedrocks.
The number 4 that I use the most is my Lie Nielsen number 4
Actually I use my Lie Nielsen low angle block plane the most. I use it in pretty much every project.
Ast to sharpening, I use a granite block and automotive sandpaper with a good Lee Valley sharpening jig.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 4:18 pm to Jon A thon
Lie Nielsen no62 low angle jack is my suggestion. I know you said you want a higher angle so all you have to do is sharpen your micro bevel at whatever angle you want. My Lie Nielsen No 4 just collects dust now since I reach for the 62 every time.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 4:54 pm to Jon A thon
I have a no 5, and no 7 older Stanley plane. I end up using the no 5 most often.
But a decent no 5 no need for the new fancy expensive ones, money is better spent on the diamond plates to sharpen the irons. Once I got mine cleaned up and really sharp it’s worked wonderful.
I also use a small low angle a lot and a little thinb plane a lot.
I just got a Japanese kanna plane off Amazon and am going to mess with it soon too.
I’m still on the hunt for a decent jointing plane, but found a 26” wooden one at my parents and have been using it. Works well enough for me.
But a decent no 5 no need for the new fancy expensive ones, money is better spent on the diamond plates to sharpen the irons. Once I got mine cleaned up and really sharp it’s worked wonderful.
I also use a small low angle a lot and a little thinb plane a lot.
I just got a Japanese kanna plane off Amazon and am going to mess with it soon too.
I’m still on the hunt for a decent jointing plane, but found a 26” wooden one at my parents and have been using it. Works well enough for me.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 8:18 pm to eng08
Veritas low angle jack and smoothing plane. I have all of them #1–#8 Stanley’s. I use those two the most. The lie Nielsen low angle block is very nice. Woodrivers are great for the price.
Posted on 4/28/21 at 8:41 pm to latech15
So my understanding is that the higher angle plane is going to perform better on more figured woods, hence why I'm leaning that way.
As far as sharpening, I could stand to sharpen my chisels and block plane more often, but I by no means neglect them. I pretty much consistently have a patch of hair missing somewhere from making sure they are shaving level sharp, haha.
I hear various opinions, but more often than not, the no 5 is suggested. My plan would be start with a 5, then the 4, then probably a 7 if I ever really need to flatten something too large for my jointer. Then upgrade the block plane I've got now. Come to think of it I could use a router plane as well. Really need to get some lottery tickets....
As far as sharpening, I could stand to sharpen my chisels and block plane more often, but I by no means neglect them. I pretty much consistently have a patch of hair missing somewhere from making sure they are shaving level sharp, haha.
I hear various opinions, but more often than not, the no 5 is suggested. My plan would be start with a 5, then the 4, then probably a 7 if I ever really need to flatten something too large for my jointer. Then upgrade the block plane I've got now. Come to think of it I could use a router plane as well. Really need to get some lottery tickets....
Posted on 4/28/21 at 9:06 pm to Jon A thon
I have several Veritas (low angle jack, low angle smoother, regular no 4, and a shooting plane) and just bought several older Sargent planes off eBay and fixed them up. A 408 and two 414s (equivalent to a #3 and #5 Stanley). The Sargents sell for a bit less than Stanley and that is why I got them. The Sargents are similar to Stanleys, but slightly different - parts are not interchangeable.
The Sargents are working ok, but it has been an adventure. I have a scrap of poplar with some reversing grain I have been testing my planes on. I was having some chattering initially in the reversing grain that I have tamed a bit by repositioning the frog so the iron is better supported by the mouth opening. Sharpness and chip breaker positioning did not cure the issue.
My Veritas #4 just sails through the reversing grain with no tear out and performs flawlessly. The low angle jack and smoother planes do well in reversing grain if you have a high angle microbevel (35-50 degrees) on the iron, but the high angle takes more force to push. Significantly more.
Long story short, I’m not that big of a fan of the low angle planes. A standard plane with a 45 degree frog and a good iron/chip breaker is the way to go. It is easiest to buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen, but a good, older Stanley should work well, but will cost $100 or so on eBay and still need a lot of work. Be prepared to glue handles back together and really look at pictures to make sure the iron, chip breaker, and plane sole/sides are in good shape.
Good luck.
The Sargents are working ok, but it has been an adventure. I have a scrap of poplar with some reversing grain I have been testing my planes on. I was having some chattering initially in the reversing grain that I have tamed a bit by repositioning the frog so the iron is better supported by the mouth opening. Sharpness and chip breaker positioning did not cure the issue.
My Veritas #4 just sails through the reversing grain with no tear out and performs flawlessly. The low angle jack and smoother planes do well in reversing grain if you have a high angle microbevel (35-50 degrees) on the iron, but the high angle takes more force to push. Significantly more.
Long story short, I’m not that big of a fan of the low angle planes. A standard plane with a 45 degree frog and a good iron/chip breaker is the way to go. It is easiest to buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen, but a good, older Stanley should work well, but will cost $100 or so on eBay and still need a lot of work. Be prepared to glue handles back together and really look at pictures to make sure the iron, chip breaker, and plane sole/sides are in good shape.
Good luck.
Posted on 4/29/21 at 8:35 pm to ChEgrad
Just placed an order for the lie nielson #5. Got a small unexpected bonus from my company for filing a patent under my name. Don't give me money at the same time that I'm shopping for toys, haha.
Posted on 4/29/21 at 10:59 pm to Jon A thon
Veritas makes a regular 5 and 5-1/2. It just costs more for whatever reason. Trouble is getting it in stock.
As for sharpening, check out Rob Cosman on YouTube. You can get away with a Trend Diamond stone and a Shapton 16000 ceramic.
Finally got my Veritas low angle block last week.
ETA: this hobby is expensive as hell. RUN!
As for sharpening, check out Rob Cosman on YouTube. You can get away with a Trend Diamond stone and a Shapton 16000 ceramic.
Finally got my Veritas low angle block last week.
ETA: this hobby is expensive as hell. RUN!
This post was edited on 4/29/21 at 11:09 pm
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