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Watering schedule - newly installed garden
Posted on 6/19/20 at 5:14 pm
Posted on 6/19/20 at 5:14 pm
Just finished installing a garden and wondering about a watering schedule for the plant material. I have not given anything a good soaking but have watered the plant material 3 times after installing it and the next day 2 more times. I have a hydrangea that has started having yellowing of the leaves. During the heat of the day if not watered, the leaves and flowers start drooping. Once watered, the hydrangea started perking back up. With the yellowing of the leaves, am I watering to much or to little? What are the recommendations of watering with it being newly planted and so hot outside?
This post was edited on 6/19/20 at 5:31 pm
Posted on 6/19/20 at 7:15 pm to lilyankems
Hydrangeas like shade, typically only morning sun depending on the variety you have. I’ll usually water new plant everyday for 2 weeks depending on rain. It’s been dry here in Hou
Posted on 6/19/20 at 8:00 pm to lilyankems
No doubt any plant material planted this time of the year is going to experience some transplant shock, so yellowing of the leaves is normal. That the drooping hydrangea leaves perk up post watering is a good sign and you are not yet over watering. If they droop and fail to perk up following watering then you likely over watering and that can lead to death from root rot - hydrangeas don’t like wet feet.
Watering daily, or every other day, for a couple weeks, in this heat and dryness, is probably OK. But thereafter, perhaps 1 or 2 soakings per week through October (depending on rain) should be sufficient.
Watering daily, or every other day, for a couple weeks, in this heat and dryness, is probably OK. But thereafter, perhaps 1 or 2 soakings per week through October (depending on rain) should be sufficient.
Posted on 6/19/20 at 8:40 pm to lilyankems
I’m probably a broken record here but planting in the summer means mulch and lots of it. Go get some shredded bark (get what you think you need, them double it), water the whole bed deeply, then spread it out thick and water again
you should be good to go then to water every couple of days. Once the fall arrives you can probably never water again as long as there’s rain
you should be good to go then to water every couple of days. Once the fall arrives you can probably never water again as long as there’s rain
Posted on 6/19/20 at 8:59 pm to cgrand
quote:
I’m probably a broken record here but planting in the summer means mulch and lots of it.
You are correct - and it can’t be stated often enough - so keep being a broken record when it comes to emphasizing mulching. I often don’t say enough about it, but I’m pretty diligent about mulching and continually replenishing mulch in landscape beds. I’d rather mulch a couple times a year than water all the time during dry periods, not to mention the other benefits of mulching.
Posted on 6/20/20 at 8:46 am to lilyankems
I put in a massive flower garden during the CV19 stay at home period and it is doing very well so far. I also put in a watering system using 1/2 inch hose with fours heads dispersed throughout each side. (2 separate timers on the east and west side of the house) I have been watering daily and it generally stays moist under the cypress mulch.
Is daily watering too much?
What would be best given:
The west side get brutal sun almost all day?
The east side gets morning and afternoon shade?
this is a pic of about 1/3 of the flower garden.
Is daily watering too much?
What would be best given:
The west side get brutal sun almost all day?
The east side gets morning and afternoon shade?
this is a pic of about 1/3 of the flower garden.
Posted on 6/20/20 at 9:21 am to Crow Pie
quote:
Crow Pie
Good job - that looks great. If your plant material has been in the ground for a month, I probably would not be watering more than a couple times per week. I would water longer and less frequently to establish a deep root system. It looks like you’ve raised your beds nicely and excess water will run off.
I target at least at least 1 inch of water per week - I monitor rain at the house, and if I receive less than an 1 inch of water from rain I run my micro-irrigation system to provide at least an inch. Each new rainfall event of 1 inch + resets the clock to run my micro-irrigation system. The 1 inch per week is based on university recommendations.
A few years ago when I started renovating my beds and I installed a micro-irrigation, on a timer system, that I ran daily. After a few months I lost several azaleas. When I dug them up, I could see they died of root rot and the planting holes were saturated with water. Replanted, changed my water strategy to no than twice a week in the absence of rain, and all is well. Now I just use the timers to set the length of watering, and manually turn them on based on rainfall events. I don’t use the micro-irrigation system from Nov-Feb.
West side can receive a little more water if you feel it necessary. Occasionally stick your finger into the bed and if it’s moist, like a wrung-out sponge to the depth of your knuckle, that should be sufficient moisture.
This post was edited on 6/20/20 at 10:32 am
Posted on 6/20/20 at 9:50 am to CrawDude
quote:Thanks. 20 yards of bed builder (after I pulled out all the old azaleas) will do that!! I will cut back to heavy water every other or third day as I believe I have lost some plants to root rot already.There a a few outside spots the water doesn't get to and I will change the plants or shorten up the bed there.
It looks like you’ve raised your beds nicely
This post was edited on 6/20/20 at 9:52 am
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