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Started By
Message
Replacing a Toilet (UPDATE: Flange Broken)
Posted on 7/4/19 at 2:29 pm
Posted on 7/4/19 at 2:29 pm
I’ve never done it before, but watching some YouTube videos it seems easy.
Are certain types of toilets superior to justify $388 vs $199, etc?
Should I use the supplied wax ring or get one of those silicon ones?
Are certain types of toilets superior to justify $388 vs $199, etc?
Should I use the supplied wax ring or get one of those silicon ones?
This post was edited on 7/5/19 at 3:06 pm
Posted on 7/4/19 at 2:50 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
A $200 toilet should be fine.
Get a thick wax seal and you'll be good.
Get a thick wax seal and you'll be good.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 2:56 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
Very easy to do. Once you shut off the water and flush it for the last time before removing, get a big sponge go get the remaining water out of the bowl before moving it.
Also use newspaper or some cardboard to put the toilet on once removed and out of the way. A lot of the wax ring will remain on the bottom of the old toilet and that is a nasty mess to deal with.
The higher end toilets do flush and clean the bowl better than the cheaper ones is what I feel. You don't want to have to break out a toilet brush every time you take one of those Taco Bell craps.
I've never had any issues with the supplied wax ring. However, if your floor is a bit uneven I've used 2 wax rings to make sure it seals. Put one whole ring in place with the plastic and remove the wax portion from the second ring and place it on top of the first.
Oh, and be sure not to overtighten the bolts holding the toilet to the floor or you can crack the bottom flange.
Press the toilet down to the floor as much as you can before putting the nuts on the flange bolts and tightening.
Also use newspaper or some cardboard to put the toilet on once removed and out of the way. A lot of the wax ring will remain on the bottom of the old toilet and that is a nasty mess to deal with.
The higher end toilets do flush and clean the bowl better than the cheaper ones is what I feel. You don't want to have to break out a toilet brush every time you take one of those Taco Bell craps.
I've never had any issues with the supplied wax ring. However, if your floor is a bit uneven I've used 2 wax rings to make sure it seals. Put one whole ring in place with the plastic and remove the wax portion from the second ring and place it on top of the first.
Oh, and be sure not to overtighten the bolts holding the toilet to the floor or you can crack the bottom flange.
Press the toilet down to the floor as much as you can before putting the nuts on the flange bolts and tightening.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 3:01 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
I hate those wax seals. It's a bitch getting the bolts to line up without messing up the wax seal. I started using Sani Seal reusable toilet gaskets in my rentals and will never buy a wax seal again.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 3:02 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
I installed 2 American Standard Colony toilets 5 years ago without any issues since. They are 2 piece units, which cost about $200 now and purchased them online from Supply.com.
I used the thicker/taller wax rings.
I used the thicker/taller wax rings.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 4:31 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
bolts are to be snugged down but not tightened or you will crack the porcelain. its just snugged down so it cant move and you are good
pay careful attention to the flush valve in it and that the repair parts are readily available for it.
i got a really good flushing toilet with the 3" flush opening but they dont make much in the way of replacement parts for it like the spring loaded flush valves to replace the flapper so im stuck with the chain and flapper style only
those spring loaded flushers are good if your kids are too rough on the flush lever and keep breaking it by pressing too hard
pay careful attention to the flush valve in it and that the repair parts are readily available for it.
i got a really good flushing toilet with the 3" flush opening but they dont make much in the way of replacement parts for it like the spring loaded flush valves to replace the flapper so im stuck with the chain and flapper style only
those spring loaded flushers are good if your kids are too rough on the flush lever and keep breaking it by pressing too hard
Posted on 7/4/19 at 4:50 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
I used a wax free ring. If you don't set correct the first time, you can reset as often as you need. A wax seal prevents that.
I used this.
LINK
I used this.
LINK
This post was edited on 7/4/19 at 4:54 pm
Posted on 7/4/19 at 5:35 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
use newspaper or some cardboard to put the toilet on once removed and out of the way.
Hell yea, this is a good idea. Do this or use a furnature dolly. Dolly makes it easy to take to the curb for bulk trash.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 5:43 pm to nerd guy
quote:
Do this or use a furnature dolly. Dolly makes it easy to take to the curb for bulk trash.
Or you can do like I've done with old toilets. I take the tanks off and just use the bowls, fill them with potting soil and plant "Mother-In-Laws Tongue" plants in them. Seems appropriate to me since I've had a couple less than desirable mother-in-laws.
They don't think it's funny though------go figure.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 7:44 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
One last tip that the plumber tightening down our toilets on the sale inspection of home told us...caulk around the base of the toilet. In AR the base has to be caulked to be up to code.
(He said it's because of partial o-ring failures and the caulk seal is supposedly an extra sanity precaution layer. He'd dip his index finger tip into the bowl to help cleanup excess caulk and smooth out the caulk after he laid down the bead and wiped over it with damp rag.)
(He said it's because of partial o-ring failures and the caulk seal is supposedly an extra sanity precaution layer. He'd dip his index finger tip into the bowl to help cleanup excess caulk and smooth out the caulk after he laid down the bead and wiped over it with damp rag.)
Posted on 7/4/19 at 8:36 pm to Sidicous
quote:
He'd dip his index finger tip into the bowl to help cleanup excess caulk and smooth out the caulk after he laid down the bead and wiped over it with damp rag.)
Friend of mine is an installer of the cultured marble shower wall surrounds. His trick with the seams after applying silicone caulk is to use a small spray bottle with rubbing alcohol in it to dampen the caulk seam and then run his fingers down the seam. This forces the caulk in the crack and makes for a nice clean caulk finish. He then wipes his finger with paper towels to remove the excess.
I've used this trick many times myself and it is foolproof and easy.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 8:43 pm to ItzMe1972
I bought a Kohler Cimarron, White, elongated, chair height. I’ll probably try the install tomorrow and report back.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 9:14 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
quote:
I bought a Kohler Cimarron, White, elongated, chair height. I’ll probably try the install tomorrow and report back.
Before you put the seal down set the toilet where it is going and make sure it sits even and flat. If it rocks at all be sure to have plastic wedges handy when you do the actual install. The fastest way to crack the toilet bolt flange is to be tightening a bolt with an air gap under the toilet flange. I've always used wax seals and never had a problem but some of the folks above have had good success with newer technology. Don't see why those wouldn't be fine also.
Posted on 7/4/19 at 10:01 pm to Tridentds
We replaced one at work last week. Usually I agree its not hard. This one however after removing the old toilet the flange was broke on 1 side and the floor very uneven. Boss went and got a flange repair ear and some Portland. He left me chipping out the tile. He got back and we proceeded to break the other side of the flange putting the ear on. He went and got a new flange. We mixed and spread the Portland. Next morning we replaced the flange and changed out the leaking supply valve. Set the new Kohler and still had gaps. Got a grout bag and squirted under toilet. Next morning we're good. Sometimes it gets a little complicated.
Posted on 7/5/19 at 12:25 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
They are easy to replace...
My only suggestion is to get one of the elongated ADA compliant toilets. 19" seat height vs 16".
Worth the extra $30-$50 easily. Will have to buy a new longer supply hose but they are more comfortable and can be a nice selling point if you sell in the future...
ETA...sounds like you've bought what imma talking about...
My only suggestion is to get one of the elongated ADA compliant toilets. 19" seat height vs 16".
Worth the extra $30-$50 easily. Will have to buy a new longer supply hose but they are more comfortable and can be a nice selling point if you sell in the future...
ETA...sounds like you've bought what imma talking about...
This post was edited on 7/5/19 at 12:29 pm
Posted on 7/5/19 at 3:05 pm to dallasga6
Yeah...
So I took the old toilet off and the flange is broken as shite...
Went to Lowe’s to get a repair kit. Problem is I’m on slab and don’t have a hammer drill to screw in the repair plate. I got some tapcon screws / concrete bit to attempt to do it myself with my Dewalt cordless, but started second guessing myself. I called a plumber how will hopefully come out today...
So I took the old toilet off and the flange is broken as shite...
Went to Lowe’s to get a repair kit. Problem is I’m on slab and don’t have a hammer drill to screw in the repair plate. I got some tapcon screws / concrete bit to attempt to do it myself with my Dewalt cordless, but started second guessing myself. I called a plumber how will hopefully come out today...
This post was edited on 7/5/19 at 3:09 pm
Posted on 7/5/19 at 3:12 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
quote:At that point, so would I.
I called a plumber
Posted on 7/5/19 at 3:18 pm to OleWarSkuleAlum
You could rent a hammer drill with the size bit you need and come out way ahead of what a plumber is going to charge for setting a new flange and mounting the toilet for you.
Chances are the concrete bit and regular drill you have would do the job, but you need the confidence you can do it in the first place.
Chances are the concrete bit and regular drill you have would do the job, but you need the confidence you can do it in the first place.
Posted on 7/5/19 at 3:58 pm to nerd guy
quote:
Dolly makes it easy to take to the curb for bulk trash.
Why throw it away? Recycle it instead!
Posted on 7/5/19 at 4:00 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
You could rent a hammer drill with the size bit you need and come out way ahead of what a plumber is going to charge for setting a new flange and mounting the toilet for you.
That’s probably true. They are charging $75 an hour for the labor. I’m not the most handy guy in the world this is one of my larger undertakings to date. I don’t have the confidence necessary as you stated.
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