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Started By
Message
Condenser not turning on
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:19 am
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:19 am
The condenser for one of my a/c units suddenly stopped coming on over night?
The inside unit is still spitting out cool air but it's keeping the main level around 78. I checked the breaker and it's fine, turned it on while standing next to it to see if I heard anything. Nothing. Carrier units, 5 years old.
Ideas?
The inside unit is still spitting out cool air but it's keeping the main level around 78. I checked the breaker and it's fine, turned it on while standing next to it to see if I heard anything. Nothing. Carrier units, 5 years old.
Ideas?
6
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:26 am to BoogaBear
Low of refrigerant? Had a Carrier installed in 2010, compressor went out in less than 6 years, condenser less than 2 years later. Just had to replace the replaced condenser. Units today are crap. My new AC guy said the best thing to do when you put in a new unit is to start saving for its replacement.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:42 am to BHS78
I've already had to replace the blower on the upstairs unit.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:58 am to BoogaBear
Did you check the capacitor?
Posted on 6/13/20 at 8:05 am to Jason9782003
Nope. No idea how to check that.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 8:11 am to BoogaBear
You can check to see if your drip pan is full. That would trigger the float switch to shut off the condenser
This post was edited on 6/13/20 at 8:12 am
Posted on 6/13/20 at 8:30 am to Booyow
Drip pan is full. So now what? Could the coils freezing over then melting cause that?
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:03 am to BoogaBear
quote:
Drip pan is full. So now what? Could the coils freezing over then melting cause that?
This happened to me about 2 weeks ago, this is what it did to get the system working. I used a cup to remove as much water as I could from the secondary pan, that contains the HVAC shut down float switch, putting it in a 5 gal bucket to carry it out of the attic, and then I poured Clorox down the condensate drain. It didn’t re-occur so I “fixed” it.
However, I already had my annual HVAC maintenance scheduled with my HVAC company, as part of that maintenance, he cleaned the evaporator coils, added anti-algae/microbial tablets to the primary drain pan, and blew the condensate drain line with compressed air. Of course they also check the the refrigerant level (which was fine), capacitor, amperage draw on the compressor motor, fan motor, blower motor, etc and clean the outside condensing unit. They come twice a year to do this, $164. You might want to look into this, all major HVAC firms offer the service. The tech did tell me they were dealing with many clogged condensate lines this year (pollen, etc) without any other issues with the HVACs. If you are lucky, hopefully that is the only problem.
This post was edited on 6/13/20 at 3:32 pm
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:25 am to CrawDude
Who did you use in Baton Rouge? We need to have that done.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:27 am to BoogaBear
Capacitor. <$100
This post was edited on 6/14/20 at 7:48 pm
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:37 am to BoogaBear
Youtube Cleaning out condensate line.
The clog is usually just a plug of slime. Figure out how to get to it.
And no freezing did not cause your problem. The water (condensate) usually drains down your plumbing pipe. The water is just condensation from the air in your home.
The clog is usually just a plug of slime. Figure out how to get to it.
And no freezing did not cause your problem. The water (condensate) usually drains down your plumbing pipe. The water is just condensation from the air in your home.
This post was edited on 6/13/20 at 9:47 am
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:57 am to TigerAlum1982
quote:
Who did you use in Baton Rouge? We need to have that done.
Ram Air, they installed my system when my house was built in 93, and I’ve used them ever since, including one HVAC replacement. But just about any major HVAC company in BR does this, and they all seem to be in the same price range. It takes about an hour to fully check and service the system.
Honestly, I’m handy enough to do most of the things they do with Preventive Maintenance except checking refrigerant, and that only b/c I don’t have the gauges, and a good set runs several hundred $$, so I think its worth it for that one item alone to check pressures for refrigerant leakage as my unit HVAC is up in age.
ETA: Also I forgot to add, by doing the twice annual service with Ram Air, you are supposed to be on a high priority list get service if you have to call them out for a problem plus 15% off the regular cost for repair service for whatever they might have to fix.
This post was edited on 6/13/20 at 3:35 pm
Posted on 6/13/20 at 11:53 am to BoogaBear
Buy a little “pump” or siphon, works better and faster than a cup, keep the drain clear with Regular Clorox or Vinegar. I have to do this at least once a year. I need to get annual maintenance done. My a/c guy retired.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 3:57 pm to Pussykat
quote:
Buy a little “pump” or siphon,
Or a shop vac that is designed for wet cleanup. Works like a dream to empty the secondary pan.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 6:04 pm to MikeBRLA
quote:
Or a shop vac that is designed for wet cleanup. Works like a dream to empty the secondary pan.
This is the best answer. I bought extra lengths of hose to reach my attic
Posted on 6/13/20 at 7:54 pm to CrawDude
Thanks.
Posted on 6/13/20 at 9:05 pm to MikeBRLA
quote:
shop vac that is designed for wet cleanup
Good idea, will take a look.
Posted on 6/14/20 at 8:52 am to BoogaBear
My new unit did that and honestly, I just needed to change the filter.
Posted on 6/14/20 at 9:12 am to MikeBRLA
Use a garden hose to remove the water from the pan. Fill the hose with water, Crimp each end of the water hose and have 2 people. One person goes to the bathroom or outside, the second person goes in the attic. Use the water to act as a Syphen To suck the water from the pan. release the upstairs end then quickly release the lower end and the hose will suck the water from the pan
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