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Started By
Message
re: Painting my New Construction Home
Posted on 9/6/19 at 6:57 am to sleepytime
Posted on 9/6/19 at 6:57 am to sleepytime
In my case, I have to tape up things. I'm a shitty painter, don't have a steady hand anymore along with my arm goes numb.
Got some more painting to do today. All outside, just porch post. And yes, I will use tape.
Got some more painting to do today. All outside, just porch post. And yes, I will use tape.
Posted on 9/6/19 at 6:57 am to sleepytime
I appreciate the sound advice and links.
Posted on 9/6/19 at 7:31 am to Vacherie
I would tape below the crown and cut carefully above the trim, unless you have a lot of 8' tall judgmental friends.
Posted on 9/6/19 at 7:35 am to Vacherie
Frog tape. Invest the time taping properly and your edges will be crisp. No edging tool will come close.
Posted on 9/6/19 at 8:47 pm to Vacherie
Ever look'ed it up on youtube?
There's some good info to be had if you're at this point.
You might also practice on how to draw the brush by letting your arm naturally arc.... the bio-mechanics... (it's from the elbow for me). Instead of pushing or forcing the brush around using a shoulder. Sounds hokie but fold some cardboard and practice finding the sweet spot that fit's you. For me (the non-pro) it's not too close so that my elbow has to rise and def not too far away. Hint feel a comfortable stoke straight down then make that happen horizontal.
There's some good info to be had if you're at this point.
You might also practice on how to draw the brush by letting your arm naturally arc.... the bio-mechanics... (it's from the elbow for me). Instead of pushing or forcing the brush around using a shoulder. Sounds hokie but fold some cardboard and practice finding the sweet spot that fit's you. For me (the non-pro) it's not too close so that my elbow has to rise and def not too far away. Hint feel a comfortable stoke straight down then make that happen horizontal.
Posted on 9/7/19 at 8:46 am to awestruck
I painted my new construction home several years ago. A neighbor let me use his indoor scaffold.
It will fit thru a 30" wide opening and is on wheels so can go almost anywhere. It prevents you from going up and down a ladder a hundred times a day.
I had my 8 year old daughter push me around when I needed to relocate.
I think you can rent from home depot.
It will fit thru a 30" wide opening and is on wheels so can go almost anywhere. It prevents you from going up and down a ladder a hundred times a day.
I had my 8 year old daughter push me around when I needed to relocate.
I think you can rent from home depot.
Posted on 9/7/19 at 10:25 am to rodnreel
quote:
I had my 8 year old daughter push me around when I needed to relocate
This made me
Posted on 9/8/19 at 11:14 am to Vacherie
Taping isn't necessary if you have a half arse steady hand. The trick is using a top of the line paint brush. Also, when cutting the line make sure the brush isn't "piled" up with paint.
Also you should have done the walls first and then the trim.
My father owned a painting company and this is how I was taught back in the day.
Also you should have done the walls first and then the trim.
My father owned a painting company and this is how I was taught back in the day.
Posted on 9/8/19 at 1:47 pm to bamarep
quote:
Also you should have done the walls first and then the trim.
And I'm just the opposite. I paint my trims and then cut the walls to the trims since it is much easier to cut a big wall into a small edge of trim than it is to cut the thin edge of trim to the wall-------especially door and window trim where the edges heading to the walls are usually 3/4 inch or less.
Posted on 9/8/19 at 6:59 pm to diat150
quote:
Pay a pro. Nothing worse than a shitty paint job on a new construction
I couldn’t imagine filling, sanding, priming, 1st coat, sanding, 2nd coating an entire house by myself.
Posted on 9/8/19 at 7:11 pm to Vacherie
Spend money on good brushes. To cut use either an 1 1/2" or 2" angled brush. Also get a good paint bucket and wipe 1 side of your brush.
Posted on 9/9/19 at 8:39 am to ItNeverRains
quote:
I couldn’t imagine filling, sanding, priming, 1st coat, sanding, 2nd coating an entire house by myself.
I can't even begin to put a number on the houses I've painted complete exterior jobs on over the years. Sometimes when prepping and doing the real work of a paint job, you just have to put your mind on hold and just keep track of what's right in front of you.
Prepping, and prepping right is very dirty work----and it gets even harder when it's a big 2 story wood frame house.
Pressure wash to get the grime and mildew off, scrape, grind, sand to prep the surfaces, set nails, fill, prime in a half tint, caulk all the weatherboards and trims, sand again to smooth it all out, clean it to remove all the dust from sanding, then 1st coat of full color, check for missed nail holes and weatherboard cracks, apply the 2nd coat of full color.
If your painter does it like this, don't complain about the price.
Posted on 9/9/19 at 10:28 am to gumbo2176
I painted my entire house and learned quite a bit in the process. IMO it turned out much better than the other new builds I've seen.
My advice:
- good caulk (someone already mentioned Big Stretch, completely agree. I used several brands, this was the best)
- In rooms with no crown, painting the walls and ceilings the same color is a huge time saver.
- Buy good paint. I used a pretty expensive paint since I was saving from not hiring painters. Worth the extra cost and will make your paint job look much better.
- Personally I found that taping was cleaner and faster for me than cutting lines. I taped off all my trim; then either caulked over the tape or painted the joint between the tape/wall the same color as the trim. Whatever bleeds thru matches the trim and keeps the wall paint from bleeding thru. When you pull the tape you have a perfectly clean/ straight line. Much straighter than you get from cutting.
- Can't emphasize getting quality paint enough.
My advice:
- good caulk (someone already mentioned Big Stretch, completely agree. I used several brands, this was the best)
- In rooms with no crown, painting the walls and ceilings the same color is a huge time saver.
- Buy good paint. I used a pretty expensive paint since I was saving from not hiring painters. Worth the extra cost and will make your paint job look much better.
- Personally I found that taping was cleaner and faster for me than cutting lines. I taped off all my trim; then either caulked over the tape or painted the joint between the tape/wall the same color as the trim. Whatever bleeds thru matches the trim and keeps the wall paint from bleeding thru. When you pull the tape you have a perfectly clean/ straight line. Much straighter than you get from cutting.
- Can't emphasize getting quality paint enough.
Posted on 9/9/19 at 11:46 am to GoldenSombrero
quote:
- Can't emphasize getting quality paint enough.
Sounds like you did a bang-up job. The biggest emphasis I can put to people when painting is this:
Spend the time getting quality prep work done. That is 80% of the paint job in making it last longer. If you do a crap prep job, you can use $100 a gallon paint and it will not last, or look as good as the job would if you spent the time doing prep work right in the first place..
Posted on 9/9/19 at 4:20 pm to gumbo2176
quote:
Spend the time getting quality prep work done. That is 80% of the paint job in making it last longer. If you do a crap prep job, you can use $100 a gallon paint and it will not last, or look as good as the job would if you spent the time doing prep work right in the first place..
Completely agree. Which is why I would never do it from the start. Agree on ceilings and walls same color if no crown as well and quality paint makes huge difference.
On exterior painted brick you have to spray and roll, spraying alone will look shitty in less than 3 years and you’ll be painting again. Biggest mistake I see today with the popularity of painted brick.
Posted on 9/9/19 at 6:30 pm to ItNeverRains
After painting about 7+ gallons at my home and reflecting back during my current hiatus, I’d paint ceiling first, then mounding, cut top of mounding to painted ceiling, cut top of wall to base of mounding (my mounding has a 1/4”shelf where it meets the wall and would be impossible to make a clean line if attempting to cut to the wall), cut base boards to bottom of wall. Tape, while good in theory, I have trouble leaving a jagged line on textured walls and paint bleeding under the tape. Then, pulling semi-dry fresh paint off when removing the tape. Therefor I freehand it.
Also, I make sure and have the best lines nearest the shitter so I can admire my work while at rest.
Also, I make sure and have the best lines nearest the shitter so I can admire my work while at rest.
Posted on 9/10/19 at 1:22 pm to White Bear
quote:
Tape, while good in theory, I have trouble leaving a jagged line on textured walls and paint bleeding under the tape
That's why either caulking over the tape or painting over the tape with the trim paint. This seals the tape and if using the trim paint, anything that bleeds thru is the same color as the trim. Probably takes an extra 15 mins in a large room but well worth it IMO
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