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Started By
Message
Best ways to waterproof leather boots.
Posted on 1/25/25 at 4:17 pm
Posted on 1/25/25 at 4:17 pm
Mink oil?
Outdoor scotchguard?
Anything else?
Outdoor scotchguard?
Anything else?
Posted on 1/25/25 at 4:29 pm to dstone12
I just buy waterproof leather boots for my work boots and non waterproof for wearing around.
I use my leather boots in water and never had them leak until they get really old and start breaking down.
I use my leather boots in water and never had them leak until they get really old and start breaking down.
This post was edited on 1/25/25 at 4:31 pm
Posted on 1/25/25 at 4:31 pm to dstone12
I use one call nu-wax (I think) that has worked well. I also use mink oil or ballistol from time to time
Posted on 1/25/25 at 4:38 pm to dstone12
I’m a big fan of Obenauf’s Leather Oil. I don’t think anything I’ve used truly waterproofs boots; but, this does a great job with making them water resistant and bringing neglected leather back to life.
Posted on 1/25/25 at 5:18 pm to Koolazzkat
quote:
Snow seal
^this^...
Posted on 1/25/25 at 6:42 pm to dstone12
When I was hydroblasting years ago, an old black man told me get a can of silicon spray and soak my new Redwings with it. It worked well, but there may be better options these days. That was 30 years ago.
Posted on 1/25/25 at 7:38 pm to dstone12
Another Sno-Seal groupie.
I heat up leather w/blow drier, apply Sno-Seal until leather can’t absorb any more, and you’re done…
I heat up leather w/blow drier, apply Sno-Seal until leather can’t absorb any more, and you’re done…
Posted on 1/26/25 at 12:09 am to RichJ
quote:
Another Sno-Seal groupie. I heat up leather w/blow drier, apply Sno-Seal until leather can’t absorb any more, and you’re done…
I’m just wondering why you do this? Outside of trying to waterproof my Chip snake boots I just buy waterproof boots.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 12:27 am to dstone12
Snow seal.
Get your boots warm by leaving them in a warm over for a while. When you take them out rub snow seal on them until they will take no more. Concentrate on stitching and seams.
Get your boots warm by leaving them in a warm over for a while. When you take them out rub snow seal on them until they will take no more. Concentrate on stitching and seams.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 6:23 am to Rize
quote:
I’m just wondering why you do this?
I like PAC style boots, not all are waterproof, or have waterproof liners, with Sno-Seal, they can be.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 8:58 am to wiltznucs
Obenauf’s here as well.
Wildland Firefighters in CA and NV swore by it as well.
Wildland Firefighters in CA and NV swore by it as well.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 10:10 am to dstone12
If you're talking about work boots, I'm going to give you my two cents. I've been wearing work boots every single day for decades. And over 20 years of wearing Army boots every day.
First of all, any "real" work boot will be stitchdown construction and not welt construction. Stitchdown construction really helps alleviate a big water entry point. It makes a big difference in leather work boots.
I hate goretex lined work boots. Hunting boots sure, but work boots no.
A good pair of high quality leather boots with stitchdown construction only need a monthly (at most) working of Obenaufs conditioner. Places like Nick's and JK use 8-9 ounce leather. That plus stitchdown construction and then Obenaufs (Sno Seal) if you are really wading through creeks, and you're good.
My dad fought wildland fires out west for over 30 years for the US Forest Service. Out in the shite for 16 hours a day digging fire breaks in bad terrain and in any weather and they didn't think about using waterproof boots. Back then Wescos and Whites were king. Now it's Nick's and JKs.
First of all, any "real" work boot will be stitchdown construction and not welt construction. Stitchdown construction really helps alleviate a big water entry point. It makes a big difference in leather work boots.
I hate goretex lined work boots. Hunting boots sure, but work boots no.
A good pair of high quality leather boots with stitchdown construction only need a monthly (at most) working of Obenaufs conditioner. Places like Nick's and JK use 8-9 ounce leather. That plus stitchdown construction and then Obenaufs (Sno Seal) if you are really wading through creeks, and you're good.
My dad fought wildland fires out west for over 30 years for the US Forest Service. Out in the shite for 16 hours a day digging fire breaks in bad terrain and in any weather and they didn't think about using waterproof boots. Back then Wescos and Whites were king. Now it's Nick's and JKs.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 10:18 am to Sparty3131
quote:
Wildland Firefighters in CA and NV swore by it as well.
My dad worked at the Mark Twain National Forest but was on fire duty and would do two week rotations to CA, NV, WA, OR all the time.
He fell in love with Spokane PNW leather boots and Obenaufs. And I swear by them as well.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 10:33 am to El Segundo Guy
Waterproof boots are awful unless you like having the sweatiest stinkiest feet in the world. They don't breathe at all.
Obenaufs (which i believe is mostly beeswax) works great. Mink oil works well. Needs Neeksfoot oil works good.
Obenaufs (which i believe is mostly beeswax) works great. Mink oil works well. Needs Neeksfoot oil works good.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 11:20 am to dstone12
Keep them oiled and sealed.....but you can never be assured they are water PROOF....temporary steps in water is ok.....wantd in water for a while, wet feet.
Posted on 1/26/25 at 11:35 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Waterproof boots are awful unless you like having the sweatiest stinkiest feet in the world. They don't breathe at all.
Obenaufs (which i believe is mostly beeswax) works great. Mink oil works well. Needs Neeksfoot oil works good.
This has been my experience with waterproof boots as well. I either go full rubber or non-waterproof because after one hiking season Jesus Christ those things stank like all hell.
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