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Review of Rome, Florence (Carmignano/Siena/San Gimignano), and Positano (w/ Capri)

Posted on 4/18/17 at 8:57 am
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 8:57 am
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone that gave us recommendations for sights, tours, food, etc... We had an absolutely amazing time. I love Italy. The culture is amazing. Especially once you get to Florence and even the Amalfi Coast area.

We flew out of MSY and connected at Heathrow on the new flights. The Dreamliner is a pretty sweet plane, but it was hot AF around 01:00-05:00. Oh well.

The seats in coach weren't awful, the food was decent, and the wine was plentiful.
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Landed pretty late, went straight to the Air BnB, and tried to sleep. Condo was in Monti and was great. Huge terrace.
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First day was a bit of a rainout. It rained until almost 15:00. It slowed to a drizzle, so we dashed out for lunch at Ai Tre Scalini. It was excellent. I highly recommend it.
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From there we did the Rick Steve's Rome-Heart of Rome walking tour. Since it was Sunday, that was the easiest thing to do and it mostly highlighted attractions that don't need tickets. Camp de' Fiori, Palazzo Farnese, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Parliament and Obelisk, Trevi Fountain, Immaculate Conception Column, and finished at the Spanish Steps. Tour is easy and to the point. Worth doing on a free day.

Wrapped up the day with a light dinner at the condo.

The next day started the tours. We used a group called Walks of Italy. I would absolutely use them again 5/5 stars for me.
---Started with the Pristine Sistine Tour. Early access to the Sistine Chapel, Skip the lines to the Vatican Museum, and skip the line to St. Peter's Basilica. Groups no larger than 15 people. Excellent group leaders who were really passionate about their job.
I'm not a religious man, but the Sistine Chapel, Vatican, and St. Peter's Basilica are awe-inspiring.
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Tour wrapped up and we tried to go to Alfredo e Ada, only to realize they must only do dinner. Sad face. We ended up having some less than memorable pizza.


Next we went and visited the Castel St. Angelo. It was nice, but we were super tired. I probably wouldn't do it again. The views were great up top, tho.
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Proscuitto, cheese, salad, and wine at the condo. The second day really hit us hard. We retired super early.

The following day we toured the Colosseum. We got to go underground and to the third tier. Totally worth it. We also did the Arches, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. Again, we used Walks of Italy. 5/5*****.
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We had lunch at a small café nearby, but I can't recall the name. It was above average. The beer and aperol spritz were flowing. Artichokes seemed to be just coming into season.
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Back to the condo to enjoy the terrace. Drank some Gewurztraminer and then went to dinner.

La Piazzetta de Trastevere was recommended to us by our Air Bnb host. It was great.
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Got lost on the way home, couldn't get a taxi because of a soccer match, and had a good ole' married couple fight. Up early and on to Florence.
This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 9:10 am
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 8:57 am to
Italia Rail to Florence was easy. Paid for business quiet class. Worth it.
Arrived, dumped our stuff at the condo, and hit the street. Nicely redone place.
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Walked around a bit, saw Ponte Vecchio, the markets, and then climbed the Duomo. Be sure to make a reservation.
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For dinner, we went to a place called Vivo. Recommended by the Air BnB host. Just to preface, this place has no freezers. They are owned by a parent fishing company. What they catch that day is what they serve. The server asked us how we found it. He said they usually get about one tourist/couple a month.

Late pic but Super Salty, less salty, lightly salty (almost sweet).
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A list of places our server liked plus a secret speakeasy called Rasputin. He said to just knock on doors and ask.
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The following day we had another tour scheduled. We used Walks of Italy again and this was by far our best guide. Passionate, very knowledgable, and just down right amazing. I won't bore everyone with pics of things they have likely seen before, but here was the agenda:

08:30 --- Florence in a day. Michelangelo’s David in the Accademia – Duomo – Ponte Vecchio – Uffizi Gallery – Baptistery Doors – Piazza della Signoria – Palazzo Vecchio (outside) – Piazza della Repubblica – Mercato Nuovo – Orsanmichele Church – Il Porcellino – Vasari Corridor (outside) – Loggia dei Lanzi (open air sculpture gallery).

For dinner we went to another recommendation from our host. A local pizza place called Il Pizzaiuolo. Again, we were the only tourists...
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Enough of museums and stuff. It's time for wine. We used a tour group called Grape Tours. Excellent job, great wineries, and a great lunch. The wineries were Fattoria di Bacchereto and Capezzana. I bought a 1/2 case from each plus a Vin Santo. Good stuff.

Plus this incredibly fresh olive oil on the bruschetta we would later have in an open-air Tuscan kitchen.
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Their table wine
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Their standout to me. I got a 1/2 case.
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After eating 100 pieces of the best bruschetta I've ever had, we went to lunch at Capezzana.

Only food photo I took :( Started with Salad, this, then some delicious pasta.
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Table wine
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Super Tuscan
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Vin Santo
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All were great. Got three of the Trefiano, Two Super Tuscans, and a Rose.

Finished at a small medieval village nearby. Can't recall the name.
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For dinner, we went to Il Latini. I wanted to try the Florentine Steak. I wasn't overly impressed or underwhelmed. It's probably better to share and have more plates. Wife doesn't eat much meat. The whole place feels kind of rushed.
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Super gutted and went to bed. More wine tomorrow.

This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 1:56 pm
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 8:57 am to
We had reached out to Tenuta Torciano prior to our trip. They set us up with a private driver. We went to Siena, the winery, and then San Gimignano.
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Town center where they host the bi-annual horse races.
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Wine time
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I didn't photograph the meal. Salad, soup, entrée, and biscotti.
There was also what they called a Vin Beato. I bought a mixed case of reds and one vin beato. YOLO

On to San Gimignano for what was mostly a quick walk through and gelato.
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Best gelato we had the whole trip. At least after fifteen glasses of wine.
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We finished our last night at Trattoria 4 Leoni. It was really great. I would recommend it. I'm also 98% certain that Liam Neeson was our server. It seemed like he had a unique set of skills. We tried to go to Trattoria Sostanza, but they were closed for some reason.

On to Positano.
We boarded an Trenitalia and blasted towards Naples at 299km/h. Craft beer or Birra Artigianale was great
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From Naples to Positano, we used Rainbow Limos. Excellent service. 130 euros each way. Nice, big E Class Mercedes.

There is no bullshite to this place. It will take your breath away.
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We arrived at Le Sirenuse. This is only the second truly five star hotel I have stayed at. If you have some extra jingle, treat yourself. It is a leading hotel of the world and rightfully so... LINK

They carried off our bags and we went straight to the veranda for a late lunch.
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Afterwards we went down to the beach and to admire the cliff side.
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We had a light dinner that turned full on dinner down at Buca di Baco's pergola (casual beach) restaurant. Split a pizza, then had mussels, and then grilled squid. Holy shite, it was delicious. No pics, sorry!

My view at breakfast each day
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We meandered through the streets and climbed a bajillion steps up by Villa Franca. Then we made our way to Bruno.
Started with grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves
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Then on to seafood gnocchi
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Next we went to the pool and just relaxed. We've done enough tours at this point.
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The Italians never drink without food being present.

This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 1:19 pm
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 8:58 am to
For dinner we went to La Tagliata. Mother of god. My stomach is still distended

Two of these
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Remember, my wife doesn't eat meat
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My body is wrecked.

Started with another fantastic breakfast. Had a little prosecco. Time to hit the streets.
Stopped at Chez Black for Lunch. mozzarella leaves weren't as good as Bruno.
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With distended stomachs again, we hit the pool.
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For dinner that night, we went to Al Palazzo. It was a Michelin Guided restaurant. It was really really good. We had some great food, excellent service, and outstanding wines. No photos. It was a little uptight. Do go though!

The next day we climbed 1700 steps to Nocelle. Good workout. Great views.
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We went back down and actually had a second breakfast. By second breakfast, I mean an egg white omelet and a few glasses of prosecco.

We had a late lunch at the hotel. Can't do photos because they all have the wife in it. Just picture a bottle of sancerre, mussels, seafood linguine, and this view
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That night we went to a wine tasting put on by the hotel. We also had dinner at their Michelin Star restaurant after that. My photos are shite because it was dark in there and I was trying to be discreet. Here's a view of the place and the menu.
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500 euros later. Damn champagne cart before...
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The next day we took the Positano Jet to Capri for a day trip.
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I was a little overwhelmed when we arrived. A dude said he would take us around the island, all day, for 150 euros. It sounded good enough, so we hopped in. If you've never been, the taxis are quite a spectacle. Like something I've never seen before. Like a safari, mini van, that wanted to grow into a limo. I didn't take a pic.

We went straight to the blue grotto. A must do! Have cash.
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Next we rode the ski lift to the top of Anacapri. Another must do.
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A glimpse of these rootin' tootin' cars
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We had lunch at La Piazetto in Marina Piccola (?)
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Then to Capri to look at 5,000 euro dresses and 1,000 euro blouses. We got gelato
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We finished the trip off at Ristorante Max. My photos are kind of shite here because we were outside under a heat lamp. Everything was red.

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Zucchini flowers stuffed with cheese and salmi
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This post was edited on 4/19/17 at 8:04 am
Posted by BlackenedOut
The Big Sleazy
Member since Feb 2011
5800 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 9:18 am to
Great first part of the report. Really excited to get on that dreamliner tomorrow night and wake up in London.
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
45793 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 11:58 am to
Those food pics look so good....
Posted by hungryone
river parishes
Member since Sep 2010
11987 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 12:20 pm to
I want a dreamliner London report...I'm going in May.
Posted by jordan21210
Member since Apr 2009
13379 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 12:29 pm to
Nice. Walks of Italy is top notch, used them both times I've been to Italy.
Posted by ell_13
Member since Apr 2013
84943 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 12:38 pm to
quote:

Positano and Capri later today.
Posted by Athanatos
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2010
8141 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 1:00 pm to
Ai Tre Scalini is one of my favorites in all of Rome. My wife absolutely loved it too. It can be packed, but the food and wine there are excellent. Monti is also a great homebase for a Rome trip. I learned that Alfredo e Ada is open only for dinner on my last Rome trip as well.

That Brunello di Montalcino should be delicious. Don't let it age too long, as they are meant to be drunk at 3-5 years old. Montalcino is famous for its brunelli, and had a shop with the best pizza rossa I have ever tasted.

Great post and looking forward to the rest.
This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 1:01 pm
Posted by speckledawg
Somewhere Salty
Member since Nov 2016
3914 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 1:30 pm to
Very, very nice. Starving now!
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
20389 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 1:48 pm to
Fantastic report so far
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 1:49 pm to
Fudge, I ran out of room!

Prawns the size of my forearm
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Sea bass under scales of potatoes
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All in all, that's about it. We ate, we saw, we DRANK, and I think we conquered. I can say that I've been to Rome. I have no burning desire to return soon. Florence and the coast, I would absolutely go back again in the near future.
Posted by LSUweights
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2014
3543 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 2:35 pm to
Looks like an amazing trip
Thanks for the review
Bookmarked for when I make that trip

Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 2:54 pm to
The Dreamliner was very very nice and new. Boarding at MSY was a clusterfrick. They had no idea how to call people up. Everyone just lined up. Don't worry. There is so much overhead space.

We sat on row 20 or 21. There was no little air nozzle above us. Some other rows had them behind us though. It got really freaking hot around 01:00 and stayed that way for four or five hours.

Entertainment was really good. It even had a little gaming controller. I played Galctica or something like that for a few minutes.

Food was average, maybe slightly above. They gave me two 375ml of wine. Probably so they didn't have to come back by.

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Meat dish for me
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Vegetarian Indian dish for the wife.
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Posted by RebelliousGooner
NCAA HQ Indianapolis
Member since Jul 2012
636 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 3:52 pm to
Awesome report.

Question on the Florence part - if you had to pick one of either the Grape tour or setting up the tour through the winery which would you chose and why?
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 4:04 pm to
quote:

Question on the Florence part - if you had to pick one of either the Grape tour or setting up the tour through the winery which would you chose and why?


Hmmm. Tough question. I think I would go with the Tenuta Torciano and the private driver. Getting to see Siena and San Gimignano (although a short trip there) was a nice addition. That gelato in San Gimignano really was excellent. We probably spent about an hour'ish in Siena.

Before the lunch the owner came out and gave us the $2 tour of the grounds nearby. They were beautiful with fancy chickens, geese, and other small animals roaming about. No photos cause the wife was in all of them.

The lunch at Tenuta Torciano was very good. The guy that was giving the tasting notes was funny as hell. I forgot to mention that we sampled some aged balsamic and truffle oil there too.

Here are some stock photos of their food.
Soup (called rabaialito or something like that):

Lasagna:

Now that you know what you can get, just tell them you want to do Siena, lunch w/ tasting, and San Gimignano. It was a little confusing setting the whole thing up with Tenuta Torciano. I didn't know if I was getting shuttled with other couples or what. It was the same price as grape tours but we were private. About 130 euros per person, plus I tipped since my boy Franco was our photographer, plus lunch (33 euros per person), plus the case of wine you are going to buy for about 750 euros
This post was edited on 4/18/17 at 4:09 pm
Posted by Jimmy2shoes
The South
Member since Mar 2014
11004 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 4:46 pm to
Nice review!
Posted by GynoSandberg
Member since Jan 2006
71960 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 4:53 pm to
quote:

That night we went to a wine tasting put on by the hotel. We also had dinner at their Michelin Star restaurant after that. My photos are shite because it was dark in there and I was trying to be discreet. Here's a view of the place and the menu.


La Sponda?
Posted by TheWiz
Third World, LA
Member since Aug 2007
11665 posts
Posted on 4/18/17 at 5:37 pm to
Yes. Haha. Forgot to list the name.
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