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Message
Car Audio Advice
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:23 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:23 am
Looking to upgrade some of my audio in the truck. I am a retard when it comes to car audio but home audio I can do. I have a 2012 Tundra with no JBL
I wanted to upgrade at least my front speakers and leave the back stock because I really don't care about the "fill" noise being better.
I have the stock head unit and might either replace the head unit or get a 4 channel amp for the door speakers with a powered sub for bass.
My questions are:
Should I get the head unit first or the 4 channel amp?
Is it a big deal hooking up component speakers without an external amp or should I just go with coaxials?
What all do I need to keep my steering wheel controls?
What all accessories do I need to hook this stuff up?
Looking to buy an Android head unit (non Android Auto)
for coaxials ( Kappas or Polk MM or cheaper option of Polk DB)
Components ( Polk DB6501
Powered sub ( Rocksford Fosgate
I wanted to upgrade at least my front speakers and leave the back stock because I really don't care about the "fill" noise being better.
I have the stock head unit and might either replace the head unit or get a 4 channel amp for the door speakers with a powered sub for bass.
My questions are:
Should I get the head unit first or the 4 channel amp?
Is it a big deal hooking up component speakers without an external amp or should I just go with coaxials?
What all do I need to keep my steering wheel controls?
What all accessories do I need to hook this stuff up?
Looking to buy an Android head unit (non Android Auto)
for coaxials ( Kappas or Polk MM or cheaper option of Polk DB)
Components ( Polk DB6501
Powered sub ( Rocksford Fosgate
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 11:24 am
4
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:27 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
im gonna latch on and ask a question that maybe you can answer, I have a 13 taco and the GPS/audio touchscreen display gives me problems every now and then. is there a way to turn it on and off while driving?
IS there a way to update it or perform a factory reset? or do I have to take it in
IS there a way to update it or perform a factory reset? or do I have to take it in
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:40 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
thanks for the help 
Posted on 12/6/16 at 11:47 am to Hu_Flung_Pu
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/21/21 at 10:46 am
Posted on 12/6/16 at 12:10 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
I have a 2013 Tundra and have used both the Polk DB6501 and MM6501 components. I much prefer the sound of MM.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 1:26 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
Get the head unit and the speakers first. Do all four, and see how you like the sound. Get matching models. If they don't match, you will not get the sound output you want. Think of it like walking around with one broken leg.
If you already have components, that's what you should buy. Make sure the tweeters will fit (can be a major PITA). The sound just goes to a crossover that separates frequencies going to each component. Same as a coax, but better and adjustable.
If you like the highs, but want a little more bass, the head unit will have an audio out that can be connected to an external bass amp for a sub. Don't get anything bigger than a 10 unless you're under 21 years old or black.
Powered subs are pretty expensive. You can get a 5 channel amp with a regular sub. For a basic system, Infinity highs work fine and get a JL w0, w1, or small w3....all on a 5-channel amp. Put a single sub in a small box, or they even make custom molded boxes for specific vehicles ($$$).
JL amps are my favorite, but they can be pricey. RF makes cheaper alternatives.
Get a Pioneer or Alpine head unit. You're gonna need a wiring harness to connect to your factory stuff. Also, you're gonna need an amp kit. Size that depending on the power output of your amp.
So start with a head unit and FOUR speakers. Buy from sonicelectronix. If you do it yourself, don't yank on panels really hard or you'll just break plastic shite. Just put medium pressure on it many times. Also, get a telescoping magnet.
If you already have components, that's what you should buy. Make sure the tweeters will fit (can be a major PITA). The sound just goes to a crossover that separates frequencies going to each component. Same as a coax, but better and adjustable.
If you like the highs, but want a little more bass, the head unit will have an audio out that can be connected to an external bass amp for a sub. Don't get anything bigger than a 10 unless you're under 21 years old or black.
Powered subs are pretty expensive. You can get a 5 channel amp with a regular sub. For a basic system, Infinity highs work fine and get a JL w0, w1, or small w3....all on a 5-channel amp. Put a single sub in a small box, or they even make custom molded boxes for specific vehicles ($$$).
JL amps are my favorite, but they can be pricey. RF makes cheaper alternatives.
Get a Pioneer or Alpine head unit. You're gonna need a wiring harness to connect to your factory stuff. Also, you're gonna need an amp kit. Size that depending on the power output of your amp.
So start with a head unit and FOUR speakers. Buy from sonicelectronix. If you do it yourself, don't yank on panels really hard or you'll just break plastic shite. Just put medium pressure on it many times. Also, get a telescoping magnet.
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 1:29 pm
Posted on 12/6/16 at 1:36 pm to Hammertime
I don't have components right now but could cut a hole in the sail panel for the tweeter.
So run 4 speakers and a HU without an external amp first and see how it goes? I was going to run the powered RF 10" in the OP as the sub.
I was looking at those polks and infinity's because of the higher sensitivity rating to help with the lower amperage.
So run 4 speakers and a HU without an external amp first and see how it goes? I was going to run the powered RF 10" in the OP as the sub.
I was looking at those polks and infinity's because of the higher sensitivity rating to help with the lower amperage.
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 1:38 pm
Posted on 12/6/16 at 1:38 pm to Brisketeer
quote:
I have a 2013 Tundra and have used both the Polk DB6501 and MM6501 components. I much prefer the sound of MM.
Tell me about your setup. Did you get an aftermarket HU or keep the old one?
Posted on 12/6/16 at 2:03 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
Honestly, almost all speaker manufacturers overrate their speakers. They do the same with amps.
You don't want to start making holes in your shite unless you're very handy. It is a PITA.
I was saying to start with a head unit and speakers first. Those are what you need before anything else. The speakers will be fine without being on an amp. While you've got the dash apart, run a remote turn-on wire and RCA wires to the back, and just leave them in a big loop under the carpet for when you do get a sub. Leave the caps on the RCA ends, and cut the remote wire so no copper is sticking out. Tape it.
If you plan on getting a 5-channel amp, run those RCA wires also. You'll then need to run wires from your amp to each speaker though. Easiest to remove the entire interior when you're doing that. Just a sub + amp or a powered sub, you already have the RCA and remote wires right there under the carpet.
Use your interior kick and rocker panels as much as possible when running wires.
I have always preferred the sound of a 10" sub in a well designed sealed box. They sound clean and tight. For the music I listen to, bigger is not better.
You don't want to start making holes in your shite unless you're very handy. It is a PITA.
I was saying to start with a head unit and speakers first. Those are what you need before anything else. The speakers will be fine without being on an amp. While you've got the dash apart, run a remote turn-on wire and RCA wires to the back, and just leave them in a big loop under the carpet for when you do get a sub. Leave the caps on the RCA ends, and cut the remote wire so no copper is sticking out. Tape it.
If you plan on getting a 5-channel amp, run those RCA wires also. You'll then need to run wires from your amp to each speaker though. Easiest to remove the entire interior when you're doing that. Just a sub + amp or a powered sub, you already have the RCA and remote wires right there under the carpet.
Use your interior kick and rocker panels as much as possible when running wires.
I have always preferred the sound of a 10" sub in a well designed sealed box. They sound clean and tight. For the music I listen to, bigger is not better.
This post was edited on 12/6/16 at 2:13 pm
Posted on 12/6/16 at 3:04 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
The first round, I kept the factory head unit. I added an Alpine amp and used a line out converter between the head unit and amp. The amp powered the MM6501s in front (tweeters in sail panels like you mentioned) and the MM 6.5 coax in the rear. I added a low profile pioneer 8" sub that actually fit in the storage compartment under the rear passenger seat. It was a huge upgrade over the stock system.
I recently added a Pioneer head unit with CarPlay and backup camera.
Anything else you'd like to know, I'll be glad to give you my opinion. I am by no means an expert, but I have researched the crap out of the different options for our trucks.
I recently added a Pioneer head unit with CarPlay and backup camera.
Anything else you'd like to know, I'll be glad to give you my opinion. I am by no means an expert, but I have researched the crap out of the different options for our trucks.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 3:21 pm to Brisketeer
I kept my touch screen factory head unit in my 2015 Tacoma. I added the Focal components in the front and Focal in the back on a Punch amp.
Sound is way better and the mids sound pretty damn good. No bass, just don`t need that anymore.
If you have steering wheel controls, you will have to get adapters for that and one for the back up camera if you change the head unit.
Sound is way better and the mids sound pretty damn good. No bass, just don`t need that anymore.
If you have steering wheel controls, you will have to get adapters for that and one for the back up camera if you change the head unit.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 4:33 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
Get a head unit, a 4 channel JL amp, front door speakers, and a 10" sub that you run off the rear two channels bridged. Leave the rear speakers on head unit power. Do not run component speakers without an amp, theyll sound like shite.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 5:38 pm to LSU999
Eh, I'm getting lazier as I'm getting older. I don't wanna do that lol
Posted on 12/6/16 at 5:40 pm to Brisketeer
So how big of an improvement was the mm over the db?
Posted on 12/6/16 at 6:15 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
Also where did you install the crossovers for the components?
Posted on 12/6/16 at 7:17 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
It's all subjective, but I thought the MMs had more clarity and presence. You may have a different perspective. You can try the DBs and see if you like them.
I put the crossovers in the doors attached with Velcro. They worked there for 3 years, but most don't recommend the doors. Another option is under the center console. There is also a lot of room under the dash if you want to consider the dash for the tweeters.
I put the crossovers in the doors attached with Velcro. They worked there for 3 years, but most don't recommend the doors. Another option is under the center console. There is also a lot of room under the dash if you want to consider the dash for the tweeters.
Posted on 12/6/16 at 7:56 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
I always screw my crossovers to something inside the truck and then run wires. The ones I have now are screwed to an amp enclosure I made. If you're putting them in the doors, make sure they can't get wet
Posted on 12/7/16 at 9:31 am to Hammertime
My ot thread got anchored.
I'm looking at JBL p660c, Hertz dsk 165.3 and the Image dynamics CTX 65
The JBL and Hertz are 115 while the ID is 170.
Anybody have any opinions?
JBL is 2 ohm
I'm looking at JBL p660c, Hertz dsk 165.3 and the Image dynamics CTX 65
The JBL and Hertz are 115 while the ID is 170.
Anybody have any opinions?
JBL is 2 ohm
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