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Soil testing question.

Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:10 pm
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:10 pm
Tested my vegetable garden soil. Ph a little over 7, nitrogen and phosphorus low. What should I do? I'm thinking to just lower the Ph. After the plants are in then feed normal with fish emulsion/ seaweed mix that I have. I always get huge leafy plants and not much fruit.
Posted by MrBobDobalina
BRo.LA
Member since Oct 2011
2989 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:22 pm to
Fertilize and add phosphorous... Phosphorous is the limiting factor in how much growth can take place followed up by available Nitrogen. If you're on the upper end of 7 you're probably a little short on iron and zinc as well.

The quickest way (1-3 months) to lower pH right away would be to add sulfur but if you have plants currently in the soil, stick to adding compost. You could look into iron sulfate fertilizer to knock out Iron, lower pH (Sulfur) and fertilize

No soils scientist here, but I am currently taking AGRO 2051(Principles of soil science; properties of soils related to plant growth and the environment.)
Posted by pointdog33
Member since Jan 2012
2765 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:24 pm to
To lower your pH from 7 to 6.5, which is where most vegetables grow, you'd need 1lb elemental sulfur per 100 square feet.\

Ammonium sulfate is also an option at around 4lbs per 100 sqaure feet

Posted by MrBobDobalina
BRo.LA
Member since Oct 2011
2989 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:30 pm to
Aluminum sulfate works a lot quicker too since its a chemical reaction, vs. the physical reaction taking place with sulfur...just have to be careful to not overdo it. I know blueberries are one plant for sure that are extremely susceptible to aluminum poisoning
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:30 pm to
The only concern I have is I want to put my plants in this weekend. I also have black plastic over the garden and I was going to cut holes in it for the plants. Can I just mix something into each hole?
Posted by pointdog33
Member since Jan 2012
2765 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:37 pm to
Don't mix sulfur into the hole of the plant. It needs to be incorporated into the entire garden.

The soil ph won't improve by next weekend but if you start now then you can maintain the ph for the rest of the time you garden.

Aluminium sulfate does react instantly but the risk of aluminum toxicity isn't worth it in a home garden situation.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 4:38 pm
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:49 pm to
What do you think of me adding compost/manure now and fixing this in the winter.
Posted by pointdog33
Member since Jan 2012
2765 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 4:55 pm to
That'll be fine for this growing season. You pH isn't bad but it could be improved.
Posted by jimbeam
University of LSU
Member since Oct 2011
75703 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 5:11 pm to
A bunch of freakin academics up in here. Sheesh







Posted by FelicianaTigerfan
Comanche County
Member since Aug 2009
26059 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 5:21 pm to
I'm envious of the knowledge in some of these post.
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 5:56 pm to
I haven't had he best results the past few years. Time to get academic.
Posted by highcotton2
Alabama
Member since Feb 2010
9371 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 6:34 pm to
If your pH is 7 you don't need to do anything to it unless you plan on growing blueberries which like acid soils. I wish all my fields would stay at 7 pH that is the perfect spot for the nutrients to be available to the plants. The problem of acid soils is the nutrient are not plant available.

Nutrients is your problem not pH. You should also check for micronutrients.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 6:36 pm
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:01 pm to
I do have a blueberry bush in my garden, it is the most hardy plant I've ever seen. Can spray it with roundup and it keeps coming back. I'm thinking I will just feed with the fish emulsion seaweed. I think it's 3-2-1. Thanks guys.
Posted by highcotton2
Alabama
Member since Feb 2010
9371 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:36 pm to
quote:

I think it's 3-2-1. Thanks guys.


I don't know anything about seaweed but I hope the analysis is not 3-2-1. That is probably the ratio and the analysis is like 15-10-5

After looking into it the analysis is 3-2-1. Which would be fine in a small area like a garden. I was thinking of this analysis in terms of thousands of acres and the volume needed would be astronomical.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 7:50 pm
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 7:55 pm to
Oops. 2-3-1

LINK
Posted by highcotton2
Alabama
Member since Feb 2010
9371 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 8:02 pm to
quote:

Oops. 2-3-1



See above post
Posted by highcotton2
Alabama
Member since Feb 2010
9371 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 8:32 pm to
The reason I was so surprised to see an analysis of 2-3-1 is that I am used to dealing with commercial fertilize which is much higher percentages like 32% nitrogen.

Lets use an example of using the product you linked on 1 acre of sweet corn in a garden. The corn would need 20 lbs of nitrogen. That product is 2% nitrogen so it would take 100 jugs to get 20 lbs of N. At $48.50 per jug that would be $4850 for 20 lbs of nitrogen. That is some high arse nitrogen.
Posted by LEASTBAY
Member since Aug 2007
14250 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 8:45 pm to
I feel like I have been over fertilizing in the past possibly. Seeing huge amounts of weeds and plants growing like crazy but not alot of tomatoes. The peppers produce just fine though. May have something to do with the heat though.
Posted by Capt ST
Hotel California
Member since Aug 2011
12795 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 9:35 pm to
Get you some Poly N.
Posted by eng08
Member since Jan 2013
5997 posts
Posted on 3/4/15 at 9:55 pm to
Put some powdered milk and Epsom salt in there with the tomatoes.
This post was edited on 3/4/15 at 9:58 pm
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