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re: OB mechanics assemble here
Posted on 1/31/15 at 8:12 pm to LSUnGA
Posted on 1/31/15 at 8:12 pm to LSUnGA
Grounds grounds grounds... Did I mention grounds?
But have the alternator checked first(free)
Then check all of your grounds....there are plenty!
Check your idle Rome...could be throttle body...
If rpms are sufficient and it is just affecting the ac/heater , you could have a bat body control module or A/V control head...this platform is notorious for a/c blowing heat all of a sudden ...need more details though
But have the alternator checked first(free)
Then check all of your grounds....there are plenty!
Check your idle Rome...could be throttle body...
If rpms are sufficient and it is just affecting the ac/heater , you could have a bat body control module or A/V control head...this platform is notorious for a/c blowing heat all of a sudden ...need more details though
0
Posted on 1/31/15 at 8:25 pm to sloopy
holy hell, this looks more like an OT thread than an OB thread...hopefully all of this shite is not catching on here...
for the OP, meaujeaux is the master of vehicle problems...don't let all of the bullshite spewing in this thread make you miss his suggestion...
for the OP, meaujeaux is the master of vehicle problems...don't let all of the bullshite spewing in this thread make you miss his suggestion...
Posted on 2/1/15 at 12:28 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:
You need a throttle body. They are notorious for the IAC valve going bad in them causing the motor to idle so low that the alternator can't put out a charge.
He needs the IAC, should be a separate module on the TB. Before buying a new one though it's best just to get some carb/choke cleaner and a toothbrush/Qtips and clean it out. I just cleaned the one on my Ranger today after it would drop the idle to 500 RPMs with the blower motor on high. Holds proper idle now.
Posted on 2/1/15 at 7:29 am to Clames
I think they might be sealed to the side under that plastic cover. I needed a new one in my Tahoe, and all I could find online about replacing them were to either buy a whole new throttle body or send it to this one guy who does it. Just checked rockauto, and they don't have them, so it is either a DOA or you can't replace it
Posted on 2/2/15 at 7:04 am to sloopy
My wife's avalon did something similar last year...turned out to be an O2 sensor. It was making the engine run so lean that it would cause everything to fade out...if I didn't immediately give it gas it would end up stalling.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 7:48 am to Clames
quote:
He needs the IAC, should be a separate module on the TB. Before buying a new one though it's best just to get some carb/choke cleaner and a toothbrush/Qtips and clean it out. I just cleaned the one on my Ranger today after it would drop the idle to 500 RPMs with the blower motor on high. Holds proper idle now
This^^^^
This should be done every 100K miles on all GM throttle body engines. Remove TB from intake and clean with throttle body cleaner and toothbrush. I need to do my wife's Tahoe now, the idle quality has gone to crap..
It's not difficult and doesn't take long to do.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 8:46 am to Clames
quote:
Clames
quote:
You need a throttle body. They are notorious for the IAC valve going bad in them causing the motor to idle so low that the alternator can't put out a charge.
quote:
He needs the IAC, should be a separate module on the TB
Do you really think i'd make the mistake of telling him he needs an entire throttle body when he could just try cleaning the IAC?
Old style GM Throttle body.Throttle cable type.
You could clean these types.
New style electronic GM throttle body.Cannot clean IAC.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 8:59 am to LSUnGA
It's one of the three things mentioned. Had the issue with my Yukon. My guess is throttle body needs replacing. Have a mechanic run the computer and see what code pops up. Could be alternator or ground wires
Posted on 2/2/15 at 9:54 am to meauxjeaux2
Actually you can, the rivets are easily drilled out and replaced with self-tapping hex screws (there are cheap kits for this, look them up). Did it on my gf's 2004 Silverado and a WHOLE lot cheaper than buying a new TB.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 10:38 am to TexasTiger01
Agreed. If you think you need a new throttle body and you have a newer GM truck (which it sounds like you do) remove the gunk from the throttle body with brake or carb cleaner. The buildup of gunk will cause the throttle body to stick close on idle and can really rough it up. That one simple trick got my friend's 04 Tahoe running smoothly again when it was actually stalling and dying at idle.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 12:40 pm to Clames
the IAC on those throttle bodies are gear driven,not the plunger type
ETA-Thos year throttle bodies technically did not have a IAC. They used the throttle blade to control Idle functions.
OP SECOND RESPONSE AT BOTTOM OF ARTICLE
ETA-Thos year throttle bodies technically did not have a IAC. They used the throttle blade to control Idle functions.
OP SECOND RESPONSE AT BOTTOM OF ARTICLE
This post was edited on 2/2/15 at 12:47 pm
Posted on 2/2/15 at 12:47 pm to sloopy
quote:
Sounds like the alternator is going out or the computer is having issues. Could also be a bad ground or an intermittent short somewhere. Good luck electrical shite can be a real pain to find and fix
With the engine running remove the positive battery cable. If the engine kills, it is probably the alternator.
Posted on 2/2/15 at 1:44 pm to jobbieman
quote:
With the engine running remove the positive battery cable. If the engine kills, it is probably the alternator.
Go home jobbieman, you're drunk....
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