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Started By
Message
SS Pop - Ongoing Aluminum Boat Refurb thread
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:30 pm
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:30 pm
1982 15ft Duracraft / 1982 15HP electric start Evinrude.
*If anyone has ideas/suggestions, please let me know. I will update this thread as I move forward with the boat.
My FIL gave me this rig a few weeks ago, he bought it brand new in 1982 to run hoop nets from. Zero leaks and motor runs flawlessly.
I could just leave it alone and use it "as is", but I have zero dollars in this boat and plan on keeping it, so I might as well take on the project.
Plans for boat:
- New batteries. Cranking in rear, deep cycle up front for TM.
- Front and rear decks braced with 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum angle, topped with 1/8" aluminum sheet, covered in GatorTrax brand "Hydroturf". Front deck hatch for TM battery.
- Front and rear pedestal bases, new seats/pedestals.
- Paint OD Green. Sand/ vinegar to help etch aluminum. Etching primer then paint. I have a gun, but I think for this boat I am just going to rattle can for easy touch up down the road, also why I am going with one color rather than camo stencil. I will paint after the decks are complete, then put down hydroturf.
- 45# Minn Kota Edge trolling motor. I will also need a step-up bracket to level the TM between deck and bow edge.
- New nav lights, anchor cleats
- I am considering a floor, but not sure on it just yet.
Plans for trailer:
Trailer is in 100% sound shape, just an eye sore.
- Wire wheel surface rust, sand as needed. Prime/paint black (considering bedliner material?).
- New hardware as needed, new tires/wheels, bearings.
*I have already installed a new bow roller, rear bunks, winch and lights (frick those trailer lights).
Picking it up after sitting for 7 years:
Powerwash:
Wakemaker in action:
Fuel hose had a kink and was starving at full throttle. I bent over and bought a new fuel hose for $49, but now it runs like a champ.
End result will e extremely similar to this, minus middle bench:
*If anyone has ideas/suggestions, please let me know. I will update this thread as I move forward with the boat.
My FIL gave me this rig a few weeks ago, he bought it brand new in 1982 to run hoop nets from. Zero leaks and motor runs flawlessly.
I could just leave it alone and use it "as is", but I have zero dollars in this boat and plan on keeping it, so I might as well take on the project.
Plans for boat:
- New batteries. Cranking in rear, deep cycle up front for TM.
- Front and rear decks braced with 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum angle, topped with 1/8" aluminum sheet, covered in GatorTrax brand "Hydroturf". Front deck hatch for TM battery.
- Front and rear pedestal bases, new seats/pedestals.
- Paint OD Green. Sand/ vinegar to help etch aluminum. Etching primer then paint. I have a gun, but I think for this boat I am just going to rattle can for easy touch up down the road, also why I am going with one color rather than camo stencil. I will paint after the decks are complete, then put down hydroturf.
- 45# Minn Kota Edge trolling motor. I will also need a step-up bracket to level the TM between deck and bow edge.
- New nav lights, anchor cleats
- I am considering a floor, but not sure on it just yet.
Plans for trailer:
Trailer is in 100% sound shape, just an eye sore.
- Wire wheel surface rust, sand as needed. Prime/paint black (considering bedliner material?).
- New hardware as needed, new tires/wheels, bearings.
*I have already installed a new bow roller, rear bunks, winch and lights (frick those trailer lights).
Picking it up after sitting for 7 years:
Powerwash:
Wakemaker in action:
Fuel hose had a kink and was starving at full throttle. I bent over and bought a new fuel hose for $49, but now it runs like a champ.
End result will e extremely similar to this, minus middle bench:
This post was edited on 6/22/14 at 12:31 pm
2
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:42 pm to Polar Pop
I wouldn't bedline it.
If it were me: sandblast, leave it outside for surface rust to start forming, when it's orange apply por 15.
For aluminum, I'd use an epoxy paint over a very clean surface. Some are self etching and once stuck, ain't going nowhere.
Nice little project. Good luck!
If it were me: sandblast, leave it outside for surface rust to start forming, when it's orange apply por 15.
For aluminum, I'd use an epoxy paint over a very clean surface. Some are self etching and once stuck, ain't going nowhere.
Nice little project. Good luck!
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:45 pm to DLauw
Thanks for the tips, I knew you would know. Ill email you when Im ready to paint so I dont screw it u.
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:46 pm to DLauw
Whooped em on the river this mornin with Scott! Hurry up and get that rig going so we can fish
Posted on 6/22/14 at 12:51 pm to Keystone 870
shite its on son. I took my ole lady out to Lake B yesterday so she could catch a few bream.
Posted on 6/22/14 at 3:59 pm to Polar Pop
Y'all catch any
Posted on 6/22/14 at 4:06 pm to Polar Pop
Why do you collect old water heaters? 
Posted on 6/22/14 at 4:36 pm to Keystone 870
We got into quite a few of them.
I have a plumbing shop next door to my shop, and a scrap yard right behind me. I get about $50 for 8 water heaters and it takes me less than 5 minutes to run them across the scales.
I have a plumbing shop next door to my shop, and a scrap yard right behind me. I get about $50 for 8 water heaters and it takes me less than 5 minutes to run them across the scales. Posted on 6/22/14 at 4:43 pm to MotorBoater
Posted on 5/12/15 at 4:15 pm to Polar Pop
After almost one year I have done a little work. Im not in any rush to get this done, just picking at it in my spare time.
I got the trailer wire wheeled down and threw on a few coats of primer then paint. I replaced all of the bunks, roller and winch.
Next is to get the tongue extended, new coupler, jack, hubs and wheels.
I had to drill out 5 rivets on the back of the boat below the waterline, along with 6 underneath the boat. The kneebrace had to be removed along with another bracket to get the old transom wood out. I will get the holes welded up once I am done with everything else.
I got new wood (1 piece 3/4" and 1 piece 1/2" , liquid nailed together, drilled it and sealed it with spar urethane. I got it mounted today with new machine screws and marine silicone/adhesive.
Next up is building a front deck with aluminum angle. Once I am done with that I will take boat and trailer to the welder and get that work taken care of.
I got the trailer wire wheeled down and threw on a few coats of primer then paint. I replaced all of the bunks, roller and winch.
Next is to get the tongue extended, new coupler, jack, hubs and wheels.
I had to drill out 5 rivets on the back of the boat below the waterline, along with 6 underneath the boat. The kneebrace had to be removed along with another bracket to get the old transom wood out. I will get the holes welded up once I am done with everything else.
I got new wood (1 piece 3/4" and 1 piece 1/2" , liquid nailed together, drilled it and sealed it with spar urethane. I got it mounted today with new machine screws and marine silicone/adhesive.
Next up is building a front deck with aluminum angle. Once I am done with that I will take boat and trailer to the welder and get that work taken care of.
This post was edited on 5/12/15 at 4:17 pm
Posted on 5/12/15 at 4:43 pm to Polar Pop
Nice update. 
Posted on 5/12/15 at 4:46 pm to Polar Pop
Posted on 5/12/15 at 4:47 pm to Polar Pop
You redid the rivets yourself?
Posted on 5/12/15 at 4:47 pm to Polar Pop
you putting a rear deck on that thing?
Posted on 5/12/15 at 5:11 pm to boom roasted
quote:
You redid the rivets yourself
I did not replace any rivets. They were solid aircraft grade (buck) rivets that I drilled out, and I didnt want to put pop rivets back in below the waterline. I am going to get the rivet holes welded and get the kneebrace tacked to the floor. That little 15 2 stroke weighs next to nothing so it should not put any stress on the transom or newly welded spots.
quote:
rear deck
BP I will probably fab some type of hinged rear deck for a little extra real estate back there.
Posted on 5/12/15 at 10:47 pm to Polar Pop
I was gonna suggest a vertical bow saftey tie down.
Also if you haven't already discovered the little plastic handle/Tigger you can get for rattle can paint you should look into it. Makes painting large projects with those much easier.
Also if you haven't already discovered the little plastic handle/Tigger you can get for rattle can paint you should look into it. Makes painting large projects with those much easier.
Posted on 5/13/15 at 12:53 pm to Bleeding purple
quote:
I was gonna suggest a vertical bow saftey tie down.
Educate me, I am not familiar with this.
For paint, I think I am going to scratch the rattle can job and just get some Parkers Duck Boat paint and spray it with my gun/compressor.
I am also going to scratch the Hydroturf brand matting and go with a brand that Sears carries. I am trying to keep this as cost friendly as possible since in reality it is a riveted tin boat.
The "Sears Hydroturf" is a closed cell EVA foam just like the bigger brands. It is $30 for a 30 sq ft roll. I doubt it will hold up as well as the original, but the boat will be stored in my warehouse when not in use, so I am not too worried about UV damage, etc.
Posted on 5/14/15 at 12:54 pm to Polar Pop
Keeps the front of the boat from bouncing and also provides a second safety in case the wench fails.
You can get that same closed cell EVA foam at Academy also. Used for a workout mat. 32 sq feet for 22.00
LINK
The mat I had from Academy did have some small tears in it after doing P90X on it in aggressive tennis shoes.
I would also consider adding tall marker poles at the back of the boat to backing it in is easier. I used some bent tubing bolted to the trailer with a piece of capped 1.5" PVC pipe slid over it as a tall roller guide. I tried with just PVC but the broke too easily. You need the metal inner pole. Basically I made this and then used some reflective tape to mark the correct depth to float the boat on the guides. It made launching a small short trailered boat behind a big truck much easier.
If you are going with a tongue extension on the trailer, have them weld a 1/4" plate on top of the rail to use as a step and put some anti slip tape on it.
Posted on 5/14/15 at 1:11 pm to Bleeding purple
You're the man BP Noted all of those.
Posted on 5/14/15 at 1:45 pm to Polar Pop
Lol, no problem. I suppose someone didn't like it though with that down vote.
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