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Message
Concrete question
Posted on 4/30/14 at 7:57 am
Posted on 4/30/14 at 7:57 am
I am getting ready to pour a 14x24 slab for an outdoor kitchen. Where the slab will be will meet the existing slab of my house on two sides. I am planning on doing all the prep and forming myself, but I keep getting mixed answers regarding anchoring the new slab to the old, or let it "float." I have dealt with concrete before but never in this situation. Anyone have any experience? Any help is appreciated.
5
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:02 am to laangler21
Let it float. Just butt new pour to old.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:13 am to LSUballs
That's what I was thinking, gracias 
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:23 am to laangler21
Put some expansion material in there b/t the 2 slabs and then after the new concrete sets up come back a few days later and use some joint seal for a clean, filled expansion joint that want let water orndirt in. Also make sure you hang plastic on your existing walls etc of your house, concrete has a hell of a way of splattering while pouring. You could also dowell the new slab into the old with some 12-18" pieces of #4 rebar rebar drilled and epoxeyed into the old slab sticking into the new one
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:36 am to laangler21
Do not under any circumstances drill into your house slab/foundation. If you were pouring up against an existing patio or something independent of your slab, fine. You can use some fiber board, blue board, or redwood as an expansion gap filler but I would put a plastic cap along the top of it and use it as my top of patio elevation at the house foundation and slope it down/away from there.
When I did mine, I used joint sealant, and we use it at work all of the time, but for home use, it's more of a pain in the arse to deal with. You have to pull the top cap or zip strip, install backer rod and then pour the sealant and hope it bonds well. I would just use the top cap and as the finished product and be done with it.
When I did mine, I used joint sealant, and we use it at work all of the time, but for home use, it's more of a pain in the arse to deal with. You have to pull the top cap or zip strip, install backer rod and then pour the sealant and hope it bonds well. I would just use the top cap and as the finished product and be done with it.
This post was edited on 4/30/14 at 8:44 am
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:37 am to laangler21
i would drill into existing slab and tie-in some rebar, better safe than sorry
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:54 am to djangochained
quote:
i would drill into existing slab and tie-in some rebar, better safe than sorry
Here you go. The footing may be a bit overkill but this will give you an idea
[URL=LINK ]
This post was edited on 4/30/14 at 8:57 am
Posted on 4/30/14 at 8:59 am to djangochained
quote:
i would drill into existing slab and tie-in some rebar, better safe than sorry
I would do like already stated and just pour up to house slab, if you want use an expansion material such as a 1X4. If you anchor this slab to the house slab the new patio slab will settle and your house slab has already settled so it won't settle anymore. When the new slab settles the anchors in the house slab will crack the new slab.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:05 am to civiltiger07
quote:
When the new slab settles the anchors in the house slab will crack the new slab.
This is my hang up...
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:10 am to LSUballs
quote:
Let it float. Just butt new pour to old.
This. You can come back later and pore some tar in between.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:10 am to laangler21
yea I wouldn't anchor the new slab to your house slab. Doing that really doesn't have any advantage, other than it is almost guaranteed to crack your new outdoor kitchen floor.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:14 am to laangler21
They make a product for this, so it will float and look good. Talk to HD or Lowe's. We poured a 28x32 carport for my mom and dad. We split the slab length, width, and where it met the existing slab. After 8 years there are still no cracks and looks great.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:18 am to laangler21
quote:
This is my hang up...
Unless you are going to put down a base and pack it to a certian compation rate, do not anchor it to your home.
If you were going to put down a good substrate and get it to a 90% compaction or better, then you could dowel in. For your application, this would be overkill.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 9:39 am to TexasTiger01
quote:
Unless you are going to put down a base and pack it to a certian compation rate
Wasnt planning on it, thanks for the input fellas.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 11:14 am to laangler21
I didn't tie mine together and my new slab settled and now is about 3/4" lower than my original slab. I kinda wish I had tied together.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 11:54 am to laangler21
If the roof structure of the outdoor kitchen is tied to that of the adjacent structure, you need to tie the slabs together. If not, let it float.
Posted on 4/30/14 at 12:59 pm to skidry
Should have mentioned that in OP, roof will not be attached.
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