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Preventative Truck Maintenance
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:34 pm
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:34 pm
I have a 2007 chevy silverado 1500 with the 4.8 in it. The truck is right at 140k miles and I would like to get another 140k out of it if I can. What are some things I should look at to keep her running?
I have current oil changes and recently had the transmission fluid flushed. What else?n
I have current oil changes and recently had the transmission fluid flushed. What else?n
7
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:36 pm to LSUTOM07
quote:
What are some things I should look at to keep her running?
The owners manual.
Seriously. The people who designed and built that truck know what you should do to keep it running well.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:41 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
The owners manual.
The chances of me missing something when reading an owners manual.... 100
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:42 pm to LSUTOM07
Just do the regular stuff and keep your right foot out of it. It'll last.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:48 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
keep your right foot out of it
quote:
DownshiftAndFloorIt
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:48 pm to LSUTOM07
quote:
transmission fluid flushed
I wouldn't do that.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:49 pm to sherrifftaylor
quote:
quote:
transmission fluid flushed
I wouldn't do that.
Care to explain? I have about 10k miles since the flush. I was told that's something I needed to do out past 100k miles
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:50 pm to LSUTOM07
Despite my handle, I am probably easier on the skinny pedal than anybody else on this board 99% of the time, olegoT included.
Your driving habits combined with routine maintenance habits are the biggest influences on vehicle live.
I wouldn't worry about the motor. Take care of that transmission. Drop the pan and clean all the shite out, change the filter, and fill it with some dealer spec synthetic. The best thing you can do for the motor is go easy on the go pedal.
Your driving habits combined with routine maintenance habits are the biggest influences on vehicle live.
I wouldn't worry about the motor. Take care of that transmission. Drop the pan and clean all the shite out, change the filter, and fill it with some dealer spec synthetic. The best thing you can do for the motor is go easy on the go pedal.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:52 pm to LSUTOM07
Been time for belts, check for coolant leaks, if you have a leak go ahead and change the water pump and thermostat while you're at it. Grease everything. Don't drive like a Mexican in a 4 banger race car
Posted on 3/29/14 at 8:57 pm to LSUTOM07
The best thing you can do is to follow the maintenance schedule which is usually one a chart in the owner's manuel. Use quality fluids and factory belts and hoses. Drive it responsibly.
Flushing the transmission at 130k is really late. It can sometimes cause an older transmission to self destruct if you have already burned the original fluid. Too late now so no sense in worrying about it.
Flushing the transmission at 130k is really late. It can sometimes cause an older transmission to self destruct if you have already burned the original fluid. Too late now so no sense in worrying about it.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 9:00 pm to LSUTOM07
A flush is snake oil IMO. I believe GM has even issued a SB stating that flushes are no longer an accepted service. That truck probably has the 4L60, which has had it's share of problems. I'd be doing a proper service, drop pan, change filter, torque valve body. ect.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 9:00 pm to LSUwag
Changing trasmission fluid is a touchy item.
I know guys who got 200k+ hard miles out of the factory fluid and other people who blew up at 100k on regular changes.
Personally I will change the fluid on any vehicle I buy new according to the manual. Any used vehicle I will run until it blows up, and then follow the change schedule on the new transmission.
I know guys who got 200k+ hard miles out of the factory fluid and other people who blew up at 100k on regular changes.
Personally I will change the fluid on any vehicle I buy new according to the manual. Any used vehicle I will run until it blows up, and then follow the change schedule on the new transmission.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 9:08 pm to LSUTOM07
Plugs
Wires(btwn coil packs and plugs)
Air filter
Check brake fluid
Check coolant
Clean throttle body, upper intake with seafoam or something like that(redline, Amsoil, CRC) and a toothbrush
Fuel filter
Injector cleaner(Seafoam, redline, Techron, BG44K, Berrymans B-12, Gumout Regane, Justice Bros)
Change oil and send a sample to blackwater
Then Auto-rx with clean oil
Then change oil again
Those are just the things I can think off without looking at an engine right now
Wires(btwn coil packs and plugs)
Air filter
Check brake fluid
Check coolant
Clean throttle body, upper intake with seafoam or something like that(redline, Amsoil, CRC) and a toothbrush
Fuel filter
Injector cleaner(Seafoam, redline, Techron, BG44K, Berrymans B-12, Gumout Regane, Justice Bros)
Change oil and send a sample to blackwater
Then Auto-rx with clean oil
Then change oil again
Those are just the things I can think off without looking at an engine right now
This post was edited on 3/29/14 at 9:21 pm
Posted on 3/29/14 at 9:52 pm to LSUTOM07
quote:
Care to explain? I have about 10k miles since the flush. I was told that's something I needed to do out past 100k miles
On high mileage transmissions that have not had any servicing since purchased, flushing the trans can loosen up debris in the transmission and clog trans lines, etc and then your trans goes out.
Doesn't happen to everyone, but the general rule (at least what I've seen on various truck forums), is to just do a pan drop and fluid/filter swap at 50,000-70,000 miles...avoid the flush.
I wish you luck though. Good news is if you're trans does go out, GM transmissions are plentiful and cheap in junk yards.
ETA: Lots of fluid/engine/trans talk here but no mentions of other components like the front end/suspension/brakes. At 140k miles I'd get the front end inspected (check wheel bearings, bushings, alignment, brake rotors and pads, etc.)
This post was edited on 3/29/14 at 9:58 pm
Posted on 3/29/14 at 10:08 pm to LSUTOM07
I would certainly get the cooling system flushed, if you haven't already done so...GM now uses some shite for antifreeze that basically turns into jello when it gets old...
change belt and hozes...
also, I would change the idler pulleys (bearings) on the front of the engine, as they make a whole lot more turns than the bigger pulleys and tend to throw bearings after 100K...cheap insurance...
change belt and hozes...
also, I would change the idler pulleys (bearings) on the front of the engine, as they make a whole lot more turns than the bigger pulleys and tend to throw bearings after 100K...cheap insurance...
Posted on 3/29/14 at 10:11 pm to jordan21210
Where would be a good place to bring it in without getting the run around BS. I just moved to atlanta and I don't know a soul to have a reputable mechanic take a look
Posted on 3/29/14 at 10:30 pm to LSUTOM07
All of the things I said can be done with a $20 hand tool set. Doing things yourself will help you kind of understand how your engine works, and you won't have to point and say "that thing is broken"
Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual while you're at it
Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual while you're at it
Posted on 3/29/14 at 11:02 pm to Hammertime
Plugs...GAPPED AND TORQUED TO SPEC
Wires(btwn coil packs and plugs)...NGK OR DENSO
Air filter NOT A K&N
CHANGE brake fluid
CHANGE coolant, HOSES, BELTS, WATERPUMP, THERMOSTAT.
Clean throttle body, upper intake with seafoam or something like that(redline, Amsoil, CRC) and a toothbrush
Fuel filter...DECENT BRAND
Injector cleaner TECHRON OR BERRYMANS B-12
Change oil and send a sample to blackwater...IF YOU HAVE CHANGED OIL NEAR THE SUGGESTED SERVICE INTERVALS WITH A DECENT OIL THIS IS A WASTE OF CASH.
CHANGE YOUR REAR DIFF FLUID.
DRAIN THE TRANSMISSION, DROP THE TRANSMISSION PAN, CHANGE THE FILTER. REINSTALL PAN. REFILL WITH THE SAME AMOUNT DRAINED OUT.
The most important thing to do to keep it trouble free is to stay on top of the little things, keep your oil changed, and use a good oil & filter.
Do that and the motor will outlast the body.
Wires(btwn coil packs and plugs)...NGK OR DENSO
Air filter NOT A K&N
CHANGE brake fluid
CHANGE coolant, HOSES, BELTS, WATERPUMP, THERMOSTAT.
Clean throttle body, upper intake with seafoam or something like that(redline, Amsoil, CRC) and a toothbrush
Fuel filter...DECENT BRAND
Injector cleaner TECHRON OR BERRYMANS B-12
Change oil and send a sample to blackwater...IF YOU HAVE CHANGED OIL NEAR THE SUGGESTED SERVICE INTERVALS WITH A DECENT OIL THIS IS A WASTE OF CASH.
CHANGE YOUR REAR DIFF FLUID.
DRAIN THE TRANSMISSION, DROP THE TRANSMISSION PAN, CHANGE THE FILTER. REINSTALL PAN. REFILL WITH THE SAME AMOUNT DRAINED OUT.
The most important thing to do to keep it trouble free is to stay on top of the little things, keep your oil changed, and use a good oil & filter.
Do that and the motor will outlast the body.
Posted on 3/29/14 at 11:12 pm to SuzukiGoat
quote:Techron is kind of a maintenance cleaner. Stuff like Redline and Berrymans would be more aggressive
TECHRON OR BERRYMANS B-12
quote:Costs $15 and can tell you if something is wrong with your engine internally by just sending them a little vile full of used oil. That information could help prevent a catastrophic failure
IF YOU HAVE CHANGED OIL NEAR THE SUGGESTED SERVICE INTERVALS WITH A DECENT OIL THIS IS A WASTE OF CASH.
The Auto-rx stuff is legit
Posted on 3/29/14 at 11:17 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote::kige:
Your driving habits combined with routine maintenance habits are the biggest influences on vehicle live.
I drive pretty easy and have nearly 1/4million miles. know guys that drive like crazy and no shite their trucks are always breaking
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