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Who has experience laying paver patio?

Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:27 pm
Posted by BlownderLSU
Houston, TX
Member since Jun 2010
371 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:27 pm
It looks like an easier DIY project. I'm looking to do small 12' x 12' patio in backyard. No underground utilities in my backyard. Will do 1-2 degree grade away from my home, towards the French drain.

Did you wish you knew anything beforehand that would have made this an easier project?

I posted here bc I figured everyone on this board was more DIY than the OT.
Posted by Tbooux
Member since Oct 2011
1680 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:29 pm to
Lay down an inch or two of sand, will help level everything out and give you a firm base. I left 1/4" gaps in all mine then brushed in mortar and watered with garden hose and came out perfect!
Posted by AUCE05
Member since Dec 2009
42548 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:30 pm to
Your base material is key to having a professional looking job.
Posted by CarRamrod
Spurbury, VT
Member since Dec 2006
57424 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:33 pm to
post pics
Posted by NYCAuburn
TD Platinum Membership/SECr Sheriff
Member since Feb 2011
57002 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:34 pm to
quote:

Your base material is key to having a professional looking job.



yup, Prep, prep, prep. key to making it look level now and in the future.

Use paver base(crushed rock), Get the biggest level you can, then set it with sand after pavers are laid
Posted by SaDaTayMoses
Member since Oct 2005
4318 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:55 pm to
Paver base? Is that like crushed limestone?
Also, would you lay sand after you smooth out and level the paver base?
Then level/smooth out sand.
Then lay pavers?
Then fill in with more sand?

I want to do one also. 20x20 for the most part.
Posted by NYCAuburn
TD Platinum Membership/SECr Sheriff
Member since Feb 2011
57002 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 2:57 pm to
quote:

Paver base? Is that like crushed limestone?


yes, crushed granite, limestone, whatever

quote:

Also, would you lay sand after you smooth out and level the paver base?
Then level/smooth out sand.


I lay pavers on top of paver base, no sand. I use the sand to lock the pavers in place after they are laid.
This post was edited on 3/11/14 at 2:59 pm
Posted by BlownderLSU
Houston, TX
Member since Jun 2010
371 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:01 pm to
quote:

I lay pavers on top of paver base, no sand. I use the sand to lock the pavers in place after they are laid.


Interdasting. Everything I've read says put pavers on top of sand. Can you elaborate on your reasoning?

TIA
Posted by Triggerr
Member since Jul 2013
1887 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:01 pm to
Either use a border like a metal edge or do a slider course around the edge in cement to hold in place, it will look better and last longer. As previously stated your prep work and base will determine how the job turns out. Put down a aggregate base a few inches and compact it then put down sand to bed the pacers in. Pretty simple job
Posted by tigerfoot
Alexandria
Member since Sep 2006
56179 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:04 pm to
quote:

I left 1/4" gaps in all mine then brushed in mortar and watered with garden hose and came out perfect!



this is what I saw and it looked great!

Do you do anything with the border to insure bricks don't break away?
Posted by NYCAuburn
TD Platinum Membership/SECr Sheriff
Member since Feb 2011
57002 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:05 pm to
quote:

Interdasting. Everything I've read says put pavers on top of sand. Can you elaborate on your reasoning?


I find its a more solid base than sand. Ive done 4 different areas, the sand was my first, and looks the shittiest to this day.

I guess its personal preference. The sand is easier to level though.
Posted by Motorboat
At the camp
Member since Oct 2007
22645 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:23 pm to
In that case, plan on working Sunday at my house!
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
27998 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:29 pm to
concrete slab, sand, pavers, edge with mortar. Then sweep polymeric sand between the pavers, dampen.
repeat last step X 2.

DO NOT GET DAMP POLYMERIC SAND ON PAVERS.

Sweep all excess off before you dampen pavers.
Posted by KG6
Member since Aug 2009
10920 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:33 pm to
Done it with slate pavers that were all different shapes. Its not difficult to do. But it is difficult to do well IMHO. Its probably easier using square stones though. We had a difficult time keeping everything level. That may have had a lot to do with the naturally cut slate being different thicknesses. After doing it, I wish we would have gotten a professional to do it.
Posted by TU Rob
Birmingham
Member since Nov 2008
12724 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:36 pm to
I built a raised area by building a framed box, then filled it with rocks. Added a layer of sand, then pulled a 2x4x8 across the top slowly to level it, then laid my pavers. They're 16 inch pavers and the area is 8x12. The box is sagging a bit in one area now, but it is several years old. I'll probably redo the whole thing in a few years, or just build a deck down there instead.
Posted by greasemonkey
Macclenny Fl aka south JAWJA
Member since Aug 2012
2763 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:44 pm to
Ive probably laid a few hundred thousand sq ft of paver back in my tile days.

Use 3"s ofpaver base. Run plate tamp over base

use 1" conduit laid on base.
Set conduit to pitch you want.
Cover w sand and drag straight edge over comduit.
Remove conduit. fill voids. dont pack sand.
Lay your pavers.
Run plate tamp over pavers.
Sweep in DRY polymer sand
re tamp.
I lay border in cement mix.
It will last forever this way.

If you just use sand and dont have a firm base it will settle sooner or later.

You can till in portland if you hqve sandy soil. works pretty good.
Posted by CoastieGM
Member since Aug 2012
3185 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:44 pm to
What area of Houston are you in? Most of Houston has clay with a shrink/swell potential of 10 on a scale of 1-10. (Asa, Pledger, and other similar clays).

In most parts of Houston, I don't care if you put a foot of sand under your pavers, it's going to heave, make cracks for weeds, shift, and look like shite in just a few years.

But as is often the case, those pavers will make a good base for when you get pissed off with them and pour a layer of concrete over it.
Posted by Triggerr
Member since Jul 2013
1887 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:46 pm to
I probably won't be much good Sunday, maybe depending on how early I'm in bed. If you want to do one I'm game, nothing to it
Posted by BlownderLSU
Houston, TX
Member since Jun 2010
371 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:55 pm to
quote:

What area of Houston are you in? Most of Houston has clay with a shrink/swell potential of 10 on a scale of 1-10. (Asa, Pledger, and other similar clays).


West side of the Heights. Do you think I'm better off paying professional?

What do you think based on potential for movement? More crushed gravel? Say 6 inches instead of 4?
Posted by bayoudude
Member since Dec 2007
24940 posts
Posted on 3/11/14 at 3:59 pm to
I wish i had set mine with real mortar instead of using sand in the joints as i am constantly battling weeds in the cracks. Other than that it is a pretty simple project. Mine has a few dips here and there but plenty good enough. Mine is around 16x20 done with the varying size pave stones from homedepot.
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