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Started By
Message
re: What oil & oil filter do you use?
Posted on 10/15/13 at 6:59 pm to braindeadboxer
Posted on 10/15/13 at 6:59 pm to braindeadboxer
Mobil One in anything that will take it.
Not in the diesels, though.
Not in the diesels, though.
2
Posted on 10/15/13 at 7:43 pm to VetteGuy
quote:
All of yall with a ford 5.4 ,make sure and use motorcraft oil filters and 5/20 motorcraft or another good semi or full syn oil. I have replced countless timing fasers(sp), faser solenoids and timing chains but only on trucks using the wrong oil and filter
I bought my truck with 30k on it so I don't know what was run in it at first. I have run the Motorcraft 5w-20 with Motorcraft filter for the last 50k miles. I have noticed a slight ticking sound while slowly accelerating (1200 rpm) with the windows down. Someone recommended that I switch to a 30 oil since we live in a hotter climate. What is your take on this?
Posted on 10/15/13 at 8:01 pm to Jblac15
quote:
slight ticking sound
Could just be an exhaust leak, or 50 other things.
I'd stick with 5w20.
Posted on 10/15/13 at 8:54 pm to Jblac15
quote:
I bought my truck with 30k on it so I don't know what was run in it at first. I have run the Motorcraft 5w-20 with Motorcraft filter for the last 50k miles. I have noticed a slight ticking sound while slowly accelerating (1200 rpm) with the windows down. Someone recommended that I switch to a 30 oil since we live in a hotter climate. What is your take on this?
Hope the plugs were changed prior to your purchase lol.
Posted on 10/15/13 at 9:17 pm to jordan21210
Doubtful. But it is the late 2008 model and that is not supposed to be an issue by then.
Posted on 10/15/13 at 9:29 pm to Jblac15
Oh okay, then you should be safe. But either way, if you bought it with 30,000 on the clock and doubt the plugs have been changed...and you haven't done it yourself...you should probably do that. I changed the plugs on my 2011 Ram at 40,000 miles.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:44 am to bapple
quote:as a collision repair (body shop) owner/operator I take a bit of offense to the generalization. Now unlike some shops, we don't buff regularly besides the occasional denibbing/buffing. How are we supposed to repair vehicles without touching the paint?
PSA: If you ever bring your vehicle to have body work done, tell them to NOT TOUCH the paint. They will happily add swirls in your paint free of charge.
2013 jeep rubi - haven't changed the oil yet but I will use wix and castrol synth when I do
Wife's 2010 ford edge - same
Daughter's '01 wrangler- wix and castrol synth high mileage.
Our in house mechanic changes all our oil and he's a meticulous (anal) dude. I've never seen any oil anywhere around, on or in the engine bay when he's done. I don't know his secrets and I don't ask.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 6:51 am to Jblac15
Stick with 5-20.
If it gets any worse change the fasers and solonoids
If it gets any worse change the fasers and solonoids
Posted on 10/16/13 at 7:40 am to DLauw
quote:
I don't know his secrets and I don't ask.
Well ask him and tell us you arse
Chevrolet was kind enough to put the oil filter right ontop of the front driveshaft in my 4x4, so when I pull the filter off the oil drains right onto the u-joint and it goes EVERYWHERE. I get covered in oil every time I change it.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 7:51 am to Hammertime
There are different grades of Purolator filters. Get the fiberglass one if you do.
I've always used WIX myself.
I've always used WIX myself.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 7:53 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Chevrolet was kind enough to put the oil filter right ontop of the front driveshaft in my 4x4, so when I pull the filter off the oil drains right onto the u-joint and it goes EVERYWHERE. I get covered in oil every time I change it.
Y'all are making me feel better about my mechanical abilities...was starting to think I was mechanically retarded bc I still can't seem to do a clean oil change after 5+ years
Posted on 10/16/13 at 7:56 am to jordan21210
I suppose I could do something about it like make a funnel thingy or something, but I don't care enough. I just get nasty
Posted on 10/16/13 at 8:11 am to braindeadboxer
FWIW,Wal-Mart in Central had Mobil 1 full synthetic gallon jugs on sale for $24.99. They also sell Purolator filters.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 9:58 am to braindeadboxer
2000 F150, 5.4, ProCharger
~63,000 miles
Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30
Motorcraft FL-820S
Annual OCI
2003 Ranger, 2.3
~180,000 miles
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30
Motorcraft FL-400S
~5000 OCI
~63,000 miles
Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30
Motorcraft FL-820S
Annual OCI
2003 Ranger, 2.3
~180,000 miles
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30
Motorcraft FL-400S
~5000 OCI
Posted on 10/16/13 at 10:39 am to meauxjeaux2
For everyone using Mobil One:
My grandpa was an engineer at Mobil for 20 years, and since they loosened the restrictions on what can be called synthetic, he has been using Castrol Syntec. Says it is the same quality, but cheaper
I don't use either, so tifwiw
My grandpa was an engineer at Mobil for 20 years, and since they loosened the restrictions on what can be called synthetic, he has been using Castrol Syntec. Says it is the same quality, but cheaper
I don't use either, so tifwiw
Posted on 10/16/13 at 11:36 am to jordan21210
quote:
I changed the plugs on my 2011 Ram at 40,000 miles.
Why?
Plugs go a 100K all the time now.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 11:39 am to Hammertime
I can get Mobil 1 at a Costco way cheaper than Syntec. Found a local gas station that hashas RP 5w-20 for $5/quart. The whole Mobil 1 Group III vs Group IV is a bunch of crap anyways. There are GIII synthetics that routinely turn in better UOA's than GIV for some vehicles.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 12:23 pm to VetteGuy
quote:
Why
That's what my owners manual says
Also, just peace of mind and something to occupy my time on a weekend
I'm sure they could've gone 100k, but I'm ocd about maintaining stuff.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 12:28 pm to jordan21210
I thought everyone had went to the long life stuff, I'd def. follow the book.
Posted on 10/16/13 at 12:28 pm to braindeadboxer
Mobil1 Delvac full synthetic 5w40 for diesel trucks
Mobil1 Oil filter
Mobil1 Oil filter
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