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Started By
Message
re: My 14 year old girl whipped every man at the pistol range…LOL!
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:23 pm to MahiFishn
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:23 pm to MahiFishn
Mahi, just tried both
Thumb pointing down range still has my thumb up touching slide,,,BUT. With left thumb resting on back of right hand, that works and feels pretty good. It is below the slide barely, but still below, in other words, it WORKS!!
Merci, Mahi
Thumb pointing down range still has my thumb up touching slide,,,BUT. With left thumb resting on back of right hand, that works and feels pretty good. It is below the slide barely, but still below, in other words, it WORKS!!
Merci, Mahi
0
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:24 pm to CoastieGM
That's so awesome, Congratulations.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:27 pm to Ole Geauxt
quote:
I actually may go back to this with my new little LC9. Reason being, my thumbs are big and along side, or anywhere affects my trigger pull. Gonna experiment this weekend, but may just grip with trigger hand and use left as a "table"?? Any thoughts ?
As mentioned earlier, the teacup method is mainly for accuracy since you may not be as shaky with a solid platform. BUT the teacup method sucks in regards to recoil management. With your LC9, going cup-and-saucer would be awful for recoil management and you may cause the gun to short-stroke and jam. Little guns need a very solid platform to "recoil" off of to chamber the next round.
I grip this way: (others have said things that I do as well)
1. Get a solid grip with your dominant hand. Have as much control on the gun as possible with your thumb sticking up along the slide. If you tuck your thumb on the grip when shooting one-handed, you leave a large gap for the gun to "rotate" about your hand.
2. Bring in your support hand and make the knuckles of your support hand interlace with the mid-knuckles (middle of your fingers) of your dominant hand.
3. Push forward with your dominant hand and pull back with your support hand. This is the epitome of proper form for recoil management.
4. Lastly, make sure your dominant thumb is OVER your support thumb. The gap that is left just in front of the fingertips of your dominant hand is the perfect place for your support hand to rest. Your skin should be touching the grip pretty much all the way around with most of the skin being on your dominant hand. The backstrap and front strap should be touching your dominant hand only and your dominant hand should also be covering one side. The other side will have the fingertips of your dominant hand and the remaining gap is for your support hand.
When I shoot, my support thumb is actually so far forward that my dominant thumb is actually resting on the meat of my support thumb. Both of my thumbs are pointed in-line with my slide and barrel.
This is also why I hate shooting Glocks and why I am bad with them. I have to exaggerate my support wrist even more to compensate for the exaggerated grip angle and it changes my form completely. I can feel the tension from me twisting my wrist too much and it throws off my shots.
5. Lastly, DO NOT cross your thumbs. The slide will eventually bite you, not matter how low you get that thumb.
That is textbook good form, but then again, there is no cookie-cutter set of rules for everyone. Try learning textbook form and tweak it to your comfort level. Then practice, practice, practice...
This post was edited on 7/25/13 at 2:32 pm
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:27 pm to bbvdd
Coastie, this has to be one of the proudest moments as a father you can experience. I congratulate the little Ms. and you on your fine parenting.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:41 pm to bapple
quote:
3. Push forward with your dominant hand and pull back with your support hand. This is the epitome of proper form for recoil management.
This is a Weaver shooting technique. I don't care for it but if it works for you have at it.
quote:
4. Lastly, make sure your dominant thumb is OVER your support thumb. The gap that is left just in front of the fingertips of your dominant hand is the perfect place for your support hand to rest. Your skin should be touching the grip pretty much all the way around with most of the skin being on your dominant hand. The backstrap and front strap should be touching your dominant hand only and your dominant hand should also be covering one side. The other side will have the fingertips of your dominant hand and the remaining gap is for your support hand.
I also am not a big fan of this technique. I keep both of my thumbs pointed straight at the target as it helps in point shooting and it aids me in acquiring a fast sight picture.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:50 pm to Langston
quote:
So what were the other scores?
-One soldier scored a 90 (he had all 9-ring plus...he just didn't get off his last two shots in time...otherwise he'd have won).
-Three scored in the 70's
-One was in the low 60's
It's a big target, but 20 rds in 15 secs ain't easy, even at only 10 yards.
This post was edited on 7/25/13 at 3:08 pm
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:53 pm to bapple
quote:
may cause the gun to short-stroke and jam. Little guns need a very solid platform to "recoil" off of to chamber the next round.
I'm glad someone else understands that. I hear so many people complaining about feed problems with pocket 9's. 9 times out of 10, it's caused by limp wristing, etc.
It's not the arrow, it's the archer....
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:54 pm to CoastieGM
quote:
It's a big target, but 20 rds in 15 secs ain't easy, even at only 10 yards
Yeah, at first read I thought nothing to it, but I have to admit once I reread and considered 2 mag changes, its quite impressive.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 2:59 pm to bapple
quote:
make sure your dominant thumb is OVER your support thumb.
Apple, this is the problem. My support thumb interferes with trigger finger if it is left ANYWHERE on the left side, remember the long pull on LC9. However, it does fit and stays below the slide if I rest it on the back of dominant hand like Mahi said in his second option. Thoughts?
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:02 pm to DanTiger
quote:
This is a Weaver shooting technique.
Weaver simply means that your feet are not in-line with your shoulders. Any sort of variation on the "isosceles" technique where your feet are in different places is considered Weaver, with your dominant foot being the most likely candidate to be "back."
I shoot almost exclusively isosceles and do the push-pull. Not to the point of pain by any means, but it absolutely aids in taming recoil. The video I posted the other day demonstrates this.
quote:
I also am not a big fan of this technique. I keep both of my thumbs pointed straight at the target as it helps in point shooting and it aids me in acquiring a fast sight picture.
That is part of the form. You can do everything I outlined there and still have your thumbs pointing forward. If your dominant thumb is stacked over your support thumb, you are forced to point it in-line with the slide. And your support thumb will also point with it unless you tuck in under your fingers, which I don't advise.
This is pretty much how I shoot:
Then again, you should be very cautious about shooting thumbs-forward with a revolver because the pressure from the forcing cone can mess your shite up. I don't shoot revolvers enough to worry about it but if I ever put a 44 mag in my hands, my thumbs will be as far back as possible.
quote:
I don't care for it but if it works for you have at it.
As I said, do what feels best. What works best for you may not be ideal for everyone. Just practice, practice, practice...
EDIT:
quote:
Apple, this is the problem. My support thumb interferes with trigger finger if it is left ANYWHERE on the left side, remember the long pull on LC9. However, it does fit and stays below the slide if I rest it on the back of dominant hand like Mahi said in his second option. Thoughts?
If it has to be tucked under, then you may have to do it that way. When I shoot my tiny Kahr CM9 I don't change my shooting form. But that being said, my support thumb is about a 1/4 inch from the barrel. It is a tiny little gun.
Refer to the picture I posted. It may illustrate better.
This post was edited on 7/25/13 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:02 pm to DanTiger
quote:
I keep both of my thumbs pointed straight at the target as it helps in point shooting and it aids me in acquiring a fast sight picture.
That's what I do with larger frame guns, but on this one, my support thumb won't fit over other thumb and under slide.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:13 pm to faxis
quote:Gotta love it!
He used to do that with me when I was a little kid shooting shotgun vs his buddies that were skeet shooters that didn't know better than to go up against a ten year old with an unlimited supply of ammo at his disposal. They never had a prayer.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:30 pm to CoastieGM
hmmm lil choupique may chime in later
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:33 pm to bapple
quote:
Weaver simply means that your feet are not in-line with your shoulders. Any sort of variation on the "isosceles" technique where your feet are in different places is considered Weaver, with your dominant foot being the most likely candidate to be "back."
That's not true. The weaver was developed to help him with his handicap in his strong arm. He had to bend his strong arm I believe. It's not all about the stance. The majority of guys I shoot with shoot isosceles with their strong foot slightly to the rear.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 3:35 pm to MahiFishn
quote:
The weaver was developed to help him with his handicap in his strong arm.
That is true. He actually invented the push-pull method to compensate for his insjury. Push-pull is Weaver all the way.
This post was edited on 7/25/13 at 3:36 pm
Posted on 7/25/13 at 4:17 pm to CoastieGM
I'm just gonna say I would hate to have that little girl shooting at me. Nice work, Coastie
Posted on 7/25/13 at 4:18 pm to DanTiger
I guess I don't know the history behind it. Thanks for the correction though.
I just teach the crap from the NRA Basic Pistol manual. The only distinction they make between isosceles and weaver is where your feet are, for the most part.
I just teach the crap from the NRA Basic Pistol manual. The only distinction they make between isosceles and weaver is where your feet are, for the most part.
This post was edited on 7/25/13 at 4:19 pm
Posted on 7/25/13 at 7:08 pm to bapple
I shoot like using the Trayvon method. You turn your body sideways, extend one arm fully, twist your wrist to the side and then start shooting at anything that moves.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 7:31 pm to lsu480
quote:
I shoot like using the Trayvon method.
The best way to get good groups.
Posted on 7/25/13 at 10:17 pm to CoastieGM
When she gets a better pistol, (G19, M&P 9mm Shield., and works on that grip she'll be good to go. The sooner you wean her off the cup & saucer, the less chence she'll have a deeply engrained habit that will be hard to correct,
Shooting as slowly as y'all were shooting, her grip isn't a huge issue. (20 rounds in 15 secods is pretty slow). But when she's ready to shoot faster (3-5 shots per second), she's gonna need a Glock 19, an M&P Shield or M&P 19c
Go to Amazon.com and order Andy Stanford's book entitled :Surgical Speed Shooting. It cover the drawstroke and trigger control, among other important concepts.
THis is the same grip that Jerry Miculek shoots. It'll work wih vitually every handgun. At $10, it's a bargain. Same grip and stance used by Tom Givens, James Yeager, Massad Ayoob, and virtually everyone that shoots on a factory spnsored team.
A good 9mm in a reasonable sized frane will have less recoil and far bettershot-to-shot split times than virtually any .380.
PLUS, the realy good 9mm bullets (Federal 9mm HST - 147 grain are expandigng to .835 calber (as recovered from a test tank at a wellknown crime lab that I was able to use for some comparative testing.
This is seriously the best defensive ammo out there, at reasonable prices, when you can find it.
If you can't find it, get some Ranger-T, or Corbon DPX -- both very good stoppers.
If you can't these three loads, there's always the Hornady Critical Whichever (OK, but less expansion than the HST), or the Gold Dot ammo (still very good, just not one of the best.
Bottom Line: Get whatever you can fund, and cary it untill you locate some of the "Good" stuff.
Shooting as slowly as y'all were shooting, her grip isn't a huge issue. (20 rounds in 15 secods is pretty slow). But when she's ready to shoot faster (3-5 shots per second), she's gonna need a Glock 19, an M&P Shield or M&P 19c
Go to Amazon.com and order Andy Stanford's book entitled :Surgical Speed Shooting. It cover the drawstroke and trigger control, among other important concepts.
THis is the same grip that Jerry Miculek shoots. It'll work wih vitually every handgun. At $10, it's a bargain. Same grip and stance used by Tom Givens, James Yeager, Massad Ayoob, and virtually everyone that shoots on a factory spnsored team.
A good 9mm in a reasonable sized frane will have less recoil and far bettershot-to-shot split times than virtually any .380.
PLUS, the realy good 9mm bullets (Federal 9mm HST - 147 grain are expandigng to .835 calber (as recovered from a test tank at a wellknown crime lab that I was able to use for some comparative testing.
This is seriously the best defensive ammo out there, at reasonable prices, when you can find it.
If you can't find it, get some Ranger-T, or Corbon DPX -- both very good stoppers.
If you can't these three loads, there's always the Hornady Critical Whichever (OK, but less expansion than the HST), or the Gold Dot ammo (still very good, just not one of the best.
Bottom Line: Get whatever you can fund, and cary it untill you locate some of the "Good" stuff.
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