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Started By
Message
Haven't bought a vehicle in over 10 years, any good advice?
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:41 pm
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:41 pm
Looking for either an F-150 or Sierra.
6
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:43 pm to CollegeFBRules
First decide if you want new or used and if you plan on paying cash or financing.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:44 pm to CollegeFBRules
Search for the thead WillCover started a few months ago
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:45 pm to TheDiesel
quote:
Search for the thead WillCover started a few months ago
I emailed it to myself.
quote:
I'm going to go ahead and help you. Read this and then re-read it. If you do what I list below, you will get a great deal.
1. Arm yourself with information. LINK / , LINK / , LINK and LINK are excellent sites to research the vehicle of your choice (Invoice vs. MSRP, manufacturer rebates, dealer holdback, etc.)
2. Never show emotion even when going for a test drive (do NOT provide dealer with your driver’s license). Instead, prior to your arrival at the dealership, make a copy of your driver’s license and furnish the dealer with the copy of your driver’s license.
3. Never show emotion when negotiating.
4. Never offer or accept the first price.
5. Start off negotiations by saying “that’s not good enough.”
6. Never offer a counter price.
7. Silence is golden. When in doubt, shut up and you will pay less.
8. Know what power you possess by being able to “walk away.”
9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle.
10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe.
11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership.
12. Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying – each transaction should be separate and not dependent upon one another.
13. Settle on the price of the vehicle you’re interested in before you bring up financing — don’t let the rate of a loan influence the price of the car.
14. Have your financing pre-approved before you walk into a dealership.
15. Extended warranties never make financial sense.
16. Be aware of “extra” charges such as administrative fees, handling charges, advertising fees, paint protection, VIN etching – simply do not pay these as these are deal breakers. And believe it or not, even “delivery” charges are negotiable.
17. Get the deal in writing. Full disclosure, in writing, of all fees pertaining to your vehicle purchase, such as destination, title, documentation, licensing and registration. If the dealer will not put it in writing, “walk away.”
18. The “If I” sales tactic. This is the last step in the sales negotiation process. Ex. If I decide to purchase the vehicle today, you have to include free window tinting. If I decide to take the red vehicle instead of the white vehicle, you have to include 5 free oil and tire rotation services. If I decide to purchase the vehicle today, you have to include floor mats at no additional cost. If done correctly, this will allow you to get another “service and/or product” that you normally would not have received and by this time, there is no way will the dealership allow you to “walk” because there is too much time invested between both parties. The dealership knows you are in a buying mode and doesn’t want to run the risk of you becoming a “be back” customer for another dealership since most people buy within 48 hours of stepping onto a dealership’s lot.
19. Put deposits on a “credit card” only. Do NOT pay with a check.
20. If you got a great deal, show your appreciation. Thank the dealer and be sure to send your friends to them when they go car shopping.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:46 pm to CollegeFBRules
F-150 Ecoboost. Start talking at $10k off sticker for a 2013 (go for the HD headlights!). Get financing beforehand at a credit union. Shop around: one of the biggest Ford stores in America is Mac Haik in Houston. Their advertised prices are damn good - and way better than you'll likely do in Louisiana even after negotiating.
Not to turn this into a Chevy/Ford debate BUT the 2014 Sierras are hitting the lots right now. 1) They're not that impressive to me and 2) You won't have as much luck negotiating because they're so new. And you definitely don't want to buy the 2013 Sierra - the "old body style" kills resale value.
Not to turn this into a Chevy/Ford debate BUT the 2014 Sierras are hitting the lots right now. 1) They're not that impressive to me and 2) You won't have as much luck negotiating because they're so new. And you definitely don't want to buy the 2013 Sierra - the "old body style" kills resale value.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:47 pm to OnTheBrink
What were the links he posted?
Edmonds, KBB, NADA?
eta: nvm
Edmonds, KBB, NADA?
eta: nvm
This post was edited on 7/1/13 at 3:49 pm
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:48 pm to OnTheBrink
Had it bookmarked.
LINK
Used it last month to buy, solid advice. One thing to add is bring a snickers bar to eat while you are there for the 6 hours.
Gotta put the time in to get a good deal.
LINK
Used it last month to buy, solid advice. One thing to add is bring a snickers bar to eat while you are there for the 6 hours.
Gotta put the time in to get a good deal.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 3:52 pm to eng08
Thanks guys. 
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:11 pm to eng08
quote:
One thing to add is bring a snickers bar to eat while you are there for the 6 hours.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:11 pm to CollegeFBRules
Negotiate as if you don't need the deal.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:22 pm to Will Cover
I just read one of the links provided to your previous thread. Bravo, WC. Bravo.
And thank you.
And thank you.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:24 pm to Will Cover
What are the tax and registration implications of buying out of state? Is it simply like buying in state? I know you still have to pay sales tax where your domicile is...... Does the out of state dealership collect and remit?
This post was edited on 7/1/13 at 4:57 pm
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:35 pm to CollegeFBRules
I have an ecoboost f150
10k off of msrp is a starting point IMO, 11 or 12 is more accurate as to what you can do
Local dealers will match Mac haik, they'll just pretend you're robbing them by doing it, but that's just how they are
Eta: if you go ford, be willing to finance with ford for additional incentives and then just refi with a credit union later
10k off of msrp is a starting point IMO, 11 or 12 is more accurate as to what you can do
Local dealers will match Mac haik, they'll just pretend you're robbing them by doing it, but that's just how they are
Eta: if you go ford, be willing to finance with ford for additional incentives and then just refi with a credit union later
This post was edited on 7/1/13 at 4:37 pm
Posted on 7/1/13 at 4:45 pm to CollegeFBRules
Lease don't buy. Leasing offers tax advantages if vehicle is used for business use. You also avoid paying sales taxes up front when leasing.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 5:44 pm to Paul Allen
quote:
Lease don't buy.
Leasing provides a good deal for four parties - the sales person, the F & I guy, the dealership’s owner and the finance company (leasing company). It is a lousy deal for the customer. You owe something, but you own nothing. Leasing adds a layer of complexity to the deal that allows the salesman to hide or misrepresent the true purchase price.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 7:34 pm to OnTheBrink
quote:
9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle.
10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe.
11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership.
Where are the best places to find these items? Invoice is easy enough, but where do you find the proper hold back and rebates/incentives for each vehicle and the time frame available?
Posted on 7/1/13 at 8:57 pm to CollegeFBRules
quote:
Looking for either an F-150 or Sierra.
Definitely look at something in the 3 to 5 year old, 45k to 75k mileage. That's your sweet spot for not taking too much depreciation and still get a decent vehicle. I've had better luck in that range than any new vehicle I've owned.
And either pay cash if you can, or get your financing through your bank or credit union approved before you go shopping. That cuts down about half of the freakin' waiting around at the dealership.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 10:33 pm to Ace Midnight
quote:
Definitely look at something in the 3 to 5 year old, 45k to 75k mileage. That's your sweet spot for not taking too much depreciation and still get a decent vehicle. I've had better luck in that range than any new vehicle I've owned.
Im selling a 2011 Ford F-150 right now... 60,000 miles on it.. asking 27 or obo..
Posted on 7/1/13 at 10:35 pm to Will Cover
66% of cars over $50,000 MSRP are leased.
Posted on 7/1/13 at 11:21 pm to Paul Allen
quote:
66% of cars over $50,000 MSRP are leased.
How much of that do you think is a person wanting more car than they can afford?
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