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What steps do I need to take to get my back yard lawn perfect?
Posted on 10/17/16 at 10:35 am
Posted on 10/17/16 at 10:35 am
My back yard is about 4000SF. Typically I’ve treated it the same as the rest of my yard and just cut it with my riding lawn mower whenever required. Since I bought a nice push mower to keep the bayou-side cut, I’d like to incorporate pushing my back yard in to my regimen and do whatever it takes to get my grass looking awesome (I’m talking like the picture on the front of a bag of fertilizer awesome). In the past, I’ve put down turfbuilder once or twice a year and also spray it with 2-4-d in the spring to kill the clovers. The type of grass is St. Aug.
Let me know what I need to do starting now to begin the process of getting it right. What chemicals, fertilizers, herbicides, cutting and watering schedule and method, etc do I need to use/do to make it happen…
Let me know what I need to do starting now to begin the process of getting it right. What chemicals, fertilizers, herbicides, cutting and watering schedule and method, etc do I need to use/do to make it happen…
3
Posted on 10/17/16 at 10:51 am to Coon
It's grass, We are Outdoorsmen. We cut the crap to keep the old lady off our back and get more time for hunting and fishing. As long as the yard ain't too deep to hide the dog or too dead to cause a mud hole you won the battle. Grab a gun or your boat and enjoy yourself
Posted on 10/17/16 at 11:02 am to Boat Motor Bandit
Best thing I can tell you is to cut it higher. it helps make the grass more healthy. I cut my grass at my old house on level 5 of 6. grass stayed thick and green almost all year until cooler weather and it came back with less weeds as well. FWIW my lawn was centipede though. keep fertilizing and weed prevention as well. lawn will be more full and green if cut at a higher level.
Posted on 10/17/16 at 11:06 am to WHODAT514
Pre-emergents are you friend. You basically treat the weeds before they take root. One application in the fall and another in the spring.
Posted on 10/17/16 at 11:10 am to WHODAT514
I normally cut on the highest setting because I like it full and thick (lawn I mean). I bag when the leaves fall and/or if I miss a week during the summer just to keep the thick clippings from suffocating the grass.
What chemicals specifically so I can research?
quote:
Pre-emergents are you friend. You basically treat the weeds before they take root. One application in the fall and another in the spring.
What chemicals specifically so I can research?
Posted on 10/17/16 at 11:17 am to Coon
If you have grassy weeds, i.e. Crabgrass then a product with "dimension" is what you need. You should apply it when your soil reaches a certain temp in the spring. In the dallas tx area it would be around April 1.
For dandelion and clover you should use something with "gallery". For our area it is recommended around September 1, although I just put it down this weekend.
For dandelion and clover you should use something with "gallery". For our area it is recommended around September 1, although I just put it down this weekend.
Posted on 10/17/16 at 4:02 pm to Coon
Right now
Raise the height. (can raise higher incrementally as the fall/winter progresses)
Fertilize with a strong Phosphorus source (P), 2nd number on the fertilizer bag. This will help with rooting before winter dormancy happens.
Pre-Emergent herbicide for winter weeds. You can use what others have said or find an agricultural grade combination. May be harder if you're not licensed. Go to a plant or farm/feed store they have better selection that home depot or lowes.
No need to water more during the winter, obviously.
Spring Time
Start fertilizing when soil temps reach 60-62 degrees. Go buy a meat thermometer and test it out. Normally is sometime in March-April. Use a slow release Nitrogen source. Read the label on the bag. It will say something like Urea SCU (SCU = Sulfur Coated Urea, its a slow release) this will give feeding through the spring time.
Can also use Quick relase fertilizers. Just a straight Urea will promote substantial growth. Also use an Iron (Fe) source for instant green effect.
Apply another round of pre-emergent in the Spring and again in the Summer, (3x) annually. about every 4 months and you're set.
If you're really gung-ho you can start aerifying the turf stand to promote air exchange (release of bad gas and incorporation of new, good gas into the soil)
Water accordingly. Best times are really at dusk or right before dawn. If you need to run irrigation during the daytime, light and frequent applications are the best. Can also incorporate a wetting agent into your yard if it really burns up. They have sprayable forms and also granular forms (resevoir is a great granular form). Will elongate moisture content in your soil.
Raise the height. (can raise higher incrementally as the fall/winter progresses)
Fertilize with a strong Phosphorus source (P), 2nd number on the fertilizer bag. This will help with rooting before winter dormancy happens.
Pre-Emergent herbicide for winter weeds. You can use what others have said or find an agricultural grade combination. May be harder if you're not licensed. Go to a plant or farm/feed store they have better selection that home depot or lowes.
No need to water more during the winter, obviously.
Spring Time
Start fertilizing when soil temps reach 60-62 degrees. Go buy a meat thermometer and test it out. Normally is sometime in March-April. Use a slow release Nitrogen source. Read the label on the bag. It will say something like Urea SCU (SCU = Sulfur Coated Urea, its a slow release) this will give feeding through the spring time.
Can also use Quick relase fertilizers. Just a straight Urea will promote substantial growth. Also use an Iron (Fe) source for instant green effect.
Apply another round of pre-emergent in the Spring and again in the Summer, (3x) annually. about every 4 months and you're set.
If you're really gung-ho you can start aerifying the turf stand to promote air exchange (release of bad gas and incorporation of new, good gas into the soil)
Water accordingly. Best times are really at dusk or right before dawn. If you need to run irrigation during the daytime, light and frequent applications are the best. Can also incorporate a wetting agent into your yard if it really burns up. They have sprayable forms and also granular forms (resevoir is a great granular form). Will elongate moisture content in your soil.
Posted on 10/17/16 at 4:16 pm to Coon
bootlegger is your huckleberry...
I started mowing my a notch higher this year, and even though i have to mow it more often, it stays green much longer and doesnt need as much water.
I started mowing my a notch higher this year, and even though i have to mow it more often, it stays green much longer and doesnt need as much water.
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