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Truck A/C Issue

Posted on 7/20/15 at 10:29 am
Posted by rented mule
Member since Sep 2005
2356 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 10:29 am
Any OB mechanics ever heard of something like this?
Randomly, the ac in my truck(gmc yukon) will not come on. The unit blows but compressor will not come on, press the ac button and it blinks 3 times. After a few minutes of driving it will kick on and run just fine. It seems to happen more often when Temps are really high.
I've had it checked out and compressor is fine and climate control unit was replaced but the problem persists.
Posted by CFDoc
Member since Jan 2013
2092 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 10:34 am to
Check for a bad relay switch. Had this happen to mine. Cheap to buy and easy to swap.
Posted by Shexter
Prairieville
Member since Feb 2014
13838 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 10:41 am to
Someone had similar problems last week.

quote:

This is a common problem on Chevy's trucks.


This Youtube video should answer your questions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuGVAE3YWlg

quote:

I have a 2006 Silverado, was having this same problem. I tried your solution & it work just fine. I'm still interested in finding out what causes this problem. Do you have any suggestions?


quote:

I changed my actuator also and it didnt help. $150 wasted. Before you do anything, pull your fuses and let it sit! This happens when you have a voltage drop such as a bad battery or loose or dirty conections. Pull the fuses and let it "Reboot" so to speak. Dont waste your money like I did.

Posted by meauxjeaux2
watson
Member since Oct 2007
60283 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 11:03 am to
could have excessive gap between the clutch on the compressor. I've seen that cause intermittent compressor run issues.
Posted by cajuncarguy
On the road...Again!
Member since Jun 2013
3135 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 11:28 am to
quote:

press the ac button and it blinks 3 times.


This does not sound like the blend door. If the light is blinking means the compressor, in fact, is not coming on. The previous post about compressor clutch gap has merit but also freon pressure sensors, especially with high ambient temps.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 11:44 am to
It's probably low on freon.

With how hot it is right now it's pretty common for them to start tripping out on low suction. If it works while you're going 75 and not while you're stopped, low freon is almost definitely the issue.
Posted by meauxjeaux2
watson
Member since Oct 2007
60283 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 11:46 am to
quote:

With how hot it is right now it's pretty common for them to start tripping out on low suction.

actually,the exact opposite would be true. High temps plus high humidity = high suction side pressures.
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16536 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 12:13 pm to
My brother's 4Runner did the same with a low R134a charge. AC button would blink. Would cool somewhat at highway cruise but nothing at idle.
Posted by rented mule
Member since Sep 2005
2356 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 12:22 pm to
quote:

Check for a bad relay switch. Had this happen to mine. Cheap to buy and easy to swap.


Check where for a bad relay switch?

quote:

Before you do anything, pull your fuses and let it sit! This happens when you have a voltage drop such as a bad battery or loose or dirty conections. Pull the fuses and let it "Reboot" so to speak. Dont waste your money like I did.


I'll try this.


quote:

This does not sound like the blend door. If the light is blinking means the compressor, in fact, is not coming on The previous post about compressor clutch gap has merit but also freon pressure sensors, especially with high ambient temps.


Thanks

quote:

It's probably low on freon.


Freon level checked ok.

Thanks to all for the replies.
Posted by CFDoc
Member since Jan 2013
2092 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 1:06 pm to
quote:

Check where for a bad relay switch?


More than likely in the fuse/relay box under the hood. Get your diagram out and find the one labeled something like AC Relay, Compressor Relay, AC clutch relay, etc. etc. That relay has probably gone bad.

In general, an AC stops working because the pressure is too high, too low, compressor is shot, or a switch (relay) has gone bad.

It seems like you've ruled out a bad compressor. You haven't mentioned hooking up any pressure gauges but you did say your freon level was OK so I'm kinda ruling that one out as well.

The remaining culprit is usually in the electrical somewhere. If you're skilled in this area, you can "jump" the low pressure switches and directly run 12 v to the compressor clutch to see if it engages.
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
28064 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 1:58 pm to
quote:

freon pressure sensors, especially with high ambient temps.


That's my WAG.

Especially considering one he gets moving (air across the condenser) it starts working.

IDK why a blend door would have anything to do with it.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 2:02 pm to
I've seen the opposite. When the compressor kicks on there isn't enough freon in the system to hold pressure through the loop and it clutches out on low suction pressure to save the compressor from damage.
Posted by arcalades
USA
Member since Feb 2014
19276 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 2:44 pm to
quote:

When the compressor kicks on there isn't enough freon in the system to hold pressure through the loop and it clutches out on low suction pressure to save the compressor from damage.
if the freon is low, that means there is a leak. That would be the source of not being able to hold pressure.
Posted by meauxjeaux2
watson
Member since Oct 2007
60283 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 3:30 pm to
quote:

if the freon is low, that means there is a leak. That would be the source of not being able to hold pressure.


thank you. If downshift would read OP said it had the right amount of freon
Posted by rented mule
Member since Sep 2005
2356 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 9:44 pm to
First, thanks for all the advice. I pulled the pressure switch and examined it, looked ok, reconnect and the problem has gone away. Seems the culprit is a bad low pressure switch, yes?
I also decided to check the fuses and relay. I found a hunk of wire sticking out of the ac relay connection, obviously someone was trying to jump it for some reason. Now I have to wonder if the guy I took it to initially wasn't trying to pull something on me charging me for replacing an unnecessary, expensive part and rigging the relay?
Posted by Spankum
Miss-sippi
Member since Jan 2007
55969 posts
Posted on 7/20/15 at 10:07 pm to
nothing firm here, but this link gives some ideas...looks like there can be a number of causes...

Chevy Forum
Posted by CFDoc
Member since Jan 2013
2092 posts
Posted on 7/21/15 at 6:45 am to
quote:

Seems the culprit is a bad low pressure switch, yes?


Very possible. Those switches are notorious for going bad.

quote:

Now I have to wonder if the guy I took it to initially wasn't trying to pull something on me charging me for replacing an unnecessary, expensive part and rigging the relay?


Absolutely! This is mechanic fricking 101. Happens everyday.
Posted by meauxjeaux2
watson
Member since Oct 2007
60283 posts
Posted on 7/21/15 at 7:32 am to
quote:

I found a hunk of wire sticking out of the ac relay connection, obviously someone was trying to jump it for some reason
so,the wire was stuffed under the relay? If so then it was definitely done on purpose. If not under the relay then it could have been a simple forgetful mistake TBH.

I would jump out relays all the time during the diagnostic procedure.The low pressure switch activates and deactivated the compressor clutch relay and they do go bad. I always use a multimeter with a bed of nails connector to test out switches and such tho.
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