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Message
RV Gurus - need help
Posted on 8/17/17 at 2:11 pm
Posted on 8/17/17 at 2:11 pm
Just purchased a 1998 Jayco RV for a deer camp. I work with the guy I bought it from- he is good people and would not screw me. The fridge is not working. He used the camper on the 4th of July and it worked then. It is a norcold brand model 9162. It runs on 110v plus propane. When I push mode to AC the light slowly blinks, and when I push it to propane, light does not blink. The small boiler does get hot around the Side behind the panel, but does not cool the unit. I know nothing about these things. Any advice helpful.
Posted on 8/17/17 at 2:13 pm to LSU Neil
not sure how to trouble shoot but will tell you that a new RV fridge is stupid expensive. You will be better off replacing with a 110v unit from a box store assuming you have electricity at your camp area.
Posted on 8/17/17 at 2:59 pm to bayoudude
Well, technically the thing has two separate modes to cool. AC side uses compressor and propane side a chemical reaction. The fact neither works makes me believe it may be operator error. I'm at a loss
Posted on 8/17/17 at 3:01 pm to LSU Neil
is propane empty?
also "does not cool unit" how much time are you giving it? Those things cool pretty slow when empty. Won't just be cold in an hour or two.
also "does not cool unit" how much time are you giving it? Those things cool pretty slow when empty. Won't just be cold in an hour or two.
Posted on 8/17/17 at 3:44 pm to Chad504boy
There is no compressor in a RV absorption fridge.
They are ammonia absorption fridges.
Make sure the propane tank is turned on and the lines are purged. You can do that by turning on the stove and making sure it will light. The fridge will try to light itself several times then go into a safety mode. If the lines were empty due to the tank being off, you might have to cycle it a few times to get it to light. Also on the outside check the "chimney" to make sure that no dirt daubers have built nests in there. Without the proper flow the sensors will not let it light on propane because they will never see the heat.
If on 110 you feel it getting hot on the outside, that is what it is supposed to do. These fridges boil ammonia and by evaporation cause them to cool.
As was stated above, don't expect it to get cold as quick as a house fridge. It will take a while. You should feel the fins starting to cool down, and the first place you should feel it getting cold is on the back wall of the freezer.
The other thing is with it being as hot as it has been, your time to cool down will be longer than when it is cooler outside.
Last thing I would check is to make sure that there is nothing blocking the exhaust vent at the top. If there is no air flowing over the coils it will not cool well if at all.
The only things that can go wrong to prevent cooling on these are: No air circulation behind unit, no flame from Propane burner, no heat from electric element, bad logic board, or the dreaded rusting/corrosion of the tubing and the loss of the ammonia.
Also make sure the unit is level, running this type of fridge to far off level will destroy it.
Also check the internet to make sure yours was not part of the massive recall. If it was, they will fix it to prevent you from burning down your rv!
They are ammonia absorption fridges.
Make sure the propane tank is turned on and the lines are purged. You can do that by turning on the stove and making sure it will light. The fridge will try to light itself several times then go into a safety mode. If the lines were empty due to the tank being off, you might have to cycle it a few times to get it to light. Also on the outside check the "chimney" to make sure that no dirt daubers have built nests in there. Without the proper flow the sensors will not let it light on propane because they will never see the heat.
If on 110 you feel it getting hot on the outside, that is what it is supposed to do. These fridges boil ammonia and by evaporation cause them to cool.
As was stated above, don't expect it to get cold as quick as a house fridge. It will take a while. You should feel the fins starting to cool down, and the first place you should feel it getting cold is on the back wall of the freezer.
The other thing is with it being as hot as it has been, your time to cool down will be longer than when it is cooler outside.
Last thing I would check is to make sure that there is nothing blocking the exhaust vent at the top. If there is no air flowing over the coils it will not cool well if at all.
The only things that can go wrong to prevent cooling on these are: No air circulation behind unit, no flame from Propane burner, no heat from electric element, bad logic board, or the dreaded rusting/corrosion of the tubing and the loss of the ammonia.
Also make sure the unit is level, running this type of fridge to far off level will destroy it.
Also check the internet to make sure yours was not part of the massive recall. If it was, they will fix it to prevent you from burning down your rv!
This post was edited on 8/17/17 at 3:48 pm
Posted on 8/17/17 at 6:01 pm to td1
Awesome post. I can see a flame inside of a small metal box (on the outside). But I also see a small yellow puddle on the wood below that box which smells like ammonia. (Old and dry) have not checked the vent yet. But I do see flame.
Posted on 8/17/17 at 7:24 pm to LSU Neil
That is ammonia. Don't use it. Toss it out and get a household unit.
FYI, they had recalls on the recall kits!
FYI, they had recalls on the recall kits!
Posted on 8/17/17 at 8:01 pm to ct4lsu
Yep- looking online I found a 110v double door with freezer. (Frost free) for 238.00 at Walmart. It is just about the same exact size as what I have. A few minor modifications and trim, plus adding some keeper braces to stop it from moving during transport and I'm good to go. No doubt best way to go.
Posted on 8/17/17 at 8:01 pm to ct4lsu
Yes, if it smells like ammonia it is toast. When the ammonia boils it produces a fairly flammable gas, so if it is leaking running it would be no Bueno.
Here is a good site LINK / You can find all the info you could ever want on what causes it, etc.
Some on there have bought a cooling unit made by the Amish that is supposed to be 1000 times better than the Norcold one. As said above the recall kits suck, they are pretty much just a little extra safety temperature probe that shuts the unit off before it can burn a hold in the tubing.
You will also find a lot of talk about what residential fridges fit in the space for that fridge and will be able to see some of the mods people did to make them fit.
One thing I would say, is if you do go with a res fridge is to remember it will only work on gen power or plugged in unless you get an inverter. Also many have had to remove a side window or the front windshield to get the old unit out and/or the new unit in. Some were able to squeeze it thru the door by removing the doors from the fridge. Just be ready to do some work, this is not going to be a buy a new fridge and swap it out without some work project. 99% of these fridges were dropped in before the roof or walls were put on the rig.
I want to do the res fridge upgrade, but our 99 Holiday Rambler fridge just will not die! Damn thing has been the best and coldest one we have ever had in an RV!
Here is a good site LINK / You can find all the info you could ever want on what causes it, etc.
Some on there have bought a cooling unit made by the Amish that is supposed to be 1000 times better than the Norcold one. As said above the recall kits suck, they are pretty much just a little extra safety temperature probe that shuts the unit off before it can burn a hold in the tubing.
You will also find a lot of talk about what residential fridges fit in the space for that fridge and will be able to see some of the mods people did to make them fit.
One thing I would say, is if you do go with a res fridge is to remember it will only work on gen power or plugged in unless you get an inverter. Also many have had to remove a side window or the front windshield to get the old unit out and/or the new unit in. Some were able to squeeze it thru the door by removing the doors from the fridge. Just be ready to do some work, this is not going to be a buy a new fridge and swap it out without some work project. 99% of these fridges were dropped in before the roof or walls were put on the rig.
I want to do the res fridge upgrade, but our 99 Holiday Rambler fridge just will not die! Damn thing has been the best and coldest one we have ever had in an RV!
Posted on 8/17/17 at 8:40 pm to LSU Neil
Better check on the width of the entry door.. make sure you can get it in and out
Posted on 8/18/17 at 8:11 am to LSU Neil
Those RV units generally don't get cold at all FYI, I mean like they get 'cool' but not cold and take forever to cool down. If you don't really need to have it on while driving, I'd definitely do as said above and just get a regular 110v to plug in at camp. Would be much better for multiple reasons.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:20 am to baldona
quote:
Those RV units generally don't get cold at all FYI,
not true, i have to turn mine down when camping cause my eggs and shite will start freezing, it does cool down slowly, i'll turn mine on a day or two before we're packing up to leave.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:22 am to Chad504boy
quote:
i have to turn mine down when camping cause my eggs and shite will start freezing,
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:26 am to AlxTgr
yep, water bottles in the door will get the shredded glass ice in them.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:29 am to baldona
quote:
Those RV units generally don't get cold at all
Mine got cold enough to freeze a 1/2 gallon of whole milk solid.
When it developed a pinhole in the ammonia line..that was the worst thing EVER. I liken it to being in a gas chamber without a mask. I couldn't get the door open fast enough.
ETA: I took mine out and put in a medium dorm style frig. I knew I wouldn't be staying at that worksite long and I really didn't need the freezer portion that much.
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 9:32 am
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:31 am to Chad504boy
There's some voodoo science about moving the sensor on the fins that I never quite grasped.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:33 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
quote:
I really didn't need the freezer portion that much.
clutch for 10lb bag of ice to use for mixed drinks during camping trips.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 10:29 am to Chad504boy
quote:
clutch for 10lb bag of ice to use for mixed drinks during camping trips.
Totally understand...but I don't drink.
And I was living by myself working at JRTC at the time.
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