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Started By
Message
Roofing experts: This is wrong, right?
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:25 pm
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:25 pm
Shouldn't that rafter be totally coverd in tin?
7
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:32 pm to VetteGuy
Looks wrong to me. Nothing is preventing water from getting under the flashing*
*
<-------- not an expert
*
<-------- not an expert
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:35 pm to VetteGuy
I don't think it has to be flashing but at least some kind of siding needs to be under the top and over the bottom. Definitely wrong. (Not an expert either lol)
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:40 pm to upgrayedd
There is flashing at the base, with a shingle over it.
I'm more worried about the exposed, unpainted wood.
I saw this today when I was up there cleaning the windows.
Haven't had any leaks, this is the only thing I've seen that looks questionable, but IDK if this is an issue.
I'm more worried about the exposed, unpainted wood.
I saw this today when I was up there cleaning the windows.
Haven't had any leaks, this is the only thing I've seen that looks questionable, but IDK if this is an issue.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:48 pm to VetteGuy
Termite bait.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:49 pm to VetteGuy
That flashing most definitely needs to be all the way under the drip edge. Water will get behind that flashing and rot the wood over time
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:49 pm to VetteGuy
Right, but there's nothing keeping water from getting between the flashing and the exposed wood. It's not even caulked. Also looks like there's an unsealed gap in the corner.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 12:53 pm to cajun12
I'm gonna call the company that put the roof on, two years ago.
Hopefully, they'll make it right.
If not, I'll get someone to fix it correctly.
Hopefully, they'll make it right.
If not, I'll get someone to fix it correctly.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:04 pm to VetteGuy
Big no no. Nothing to prevent water from running behind the flashing from above. A sustained sideways rain could put gallons of water behind. I doubt you are going for the hardy plank look anyway. Some ship lap would even work there.
Why isn't there any of the white siding you have not in that spot already? I'll bet money if you lightly peel that flashing back at the top the wood underneath will be moist at best. Even pressure treated will get the mold and rot going if not properly maintained.
For a quick fix you could silicone the top edges of the flashing to the wood but id go one step further and use roofing tar and cover it all if you aren't going to properly fix it with siding, cement board, or other material.
Why isn't there any of the white siding you have not in that spot already? I'll bet money if you lightly peel that flashing back at the top the wood underneath will be moist at best. Even pressure treated will get the mold and rot going if not properly maintained.
For a quick fix you could silicone the top edges of the flashing to the wood but id go one step further and use roofing tar and cover it all if you aren't going to properly fix it with siding, cement board, or other material.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:17 pm to VetteGuy
They're expecting some finishing work to be done. They assume you'll run siding down over that flashing and some sort of soffit.
This post was edited on 4/9/16 at 1:20 pm
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:18 pm to Hog Zealot
What about if I just cut a piece of my hardie plank to go over the rafter and then seal the edges?
It is in a spot that water would have to run uphill to get to and it is also under a eave.
It is in a spot that water would have to run uphill to get to and it is also under a eave.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:20 pm to Gaston
quote:
They assume you'll run adding down over that and some sort of soffit.
I bet so.
These guys did a good job, I don't think they would purposefully leave something undone.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:34 pm to VetteGuy
You can run some type of flashing/siding under the drip edge and over the existing flashing and you would be fine....it would dress it up a little too
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:35 pm to VetteGuy
That could also work, but not permanently. The main thing is to keep moisture off that rafter so that it won't leak in behind your flashing. I'd still use some roofing tar and seal the top of the flashing and part of the rafter if you are going to totally DIY a quick fix. Your best bet is to spend some cash on a piece of siding and fix it right the first time. Unless you prove roofers screwed up and they agree to repair it. A handyman in my area would charge about $125 to fix it minus the paint.
Gaston is right though. The roofers had to pull that to get shingles to butt up nice and tight. Sucks they didn't fix it the first time though.
Gaston is right though. The roofers had to pull that to get shingles to butt up nice and tight. Sucks they didn't fix it the first time though.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:40 pm to cajun12
quote:
You can run some type of flashing/siding under the drip edge and over the existing flashing and you would be fine....it would dress it up a little too
Yeah, that would be good.
I never noticed in two years. You really can't see it from the ground.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 1:41 pm to Hog Zealot
quote:
Your best bet is to spend some cash on a piece of siding and fix it right the first time.
Yeah, I'll ask the guys that did the siding to come back and cure it.
I'd rather do it right that have to deal with a rotted rafter in a few years.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 3:04 pm to VetteGuy
Get some siding or coil stock and cover it then seal the edges like any other part of the house
Posted on 4/9/16 at 4:23 pm to stout
quote:
coil stock
Thanks man.
Posted on 4/9/16 at 4:47 pm to stout
quote:
Get some siding or coil stock and cover it then seal the edges like any other part of the house
This is what I'd do. Be a nit-picky job to install siding there and wouldn't seal as nicely as some stock. And since you can't really see it from down below....
Posted on 4/9/16 at 9:04 pm to VetteGuy
Cut a piece of Hardy siding and put there.
Not roofers job unless you ask him to put valley metal there or coil stock.
Should be siding or fascia....
Not roofers job unless you ask him to put valley metal there or coil stock.
Should be siding or fascia....
This post was edited on 4/11/16 at 8:13 am
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