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Message
Refinishing front door this weekend - Drying times
Posted on 7/27/17 at 11:44 pm
Posted on 7/27/17 at 11:44 pm
I'm refinishing my front door this weekend and I'm curious what I should expect for drying times. I'm in Metairie, I'll be working in my garage, sanding first, vacuuming, applying stain, then 3 coats of poly over Saturday & Sunday.
The stain is oil-based Varathane, which says it is quick drying (less than an hour, versus Minwax's 4-6 hours), and the stain is a reapplication of the existing color. I will follow up with Minwax Helmsan spar urethane, which is the big variable, given the heat & humidity.
I am starting the sanding & staining early in the morning and budgeting 4-6 hours between poly coats, hoping to get in 2 coats on Saturday before I have to remount the door in the evening. The last time I had someone refinish the door they didn't remove it from the door frame and I was not happy with the duration/strength of the finish, so I am pulling the pins and doing the work on saw horses myself this time.
Edit: I will thin the first coat of poly 3:1 with mineral spirits, which presumably would shorten drying time.
Any experience with this process is appreciated, especially with effect of the summer heat/humidity.
The stain is oil-based Varathane, which says it is quick drying (less than an hour, versus Minwax's 4-6 hours), and the stain is a reapplication of the existing color. I will follow up with Minwax Helmsan spar urethane, which is the big variable, given the heat & humidity.
I am starting the sanding & staining early in the morning and budgeting 4-6 hours between poly coats, hoping to get in 2 coats on Saturday before I have to remount the door in the evening. The last time I had someone refinish the door they didn't remove it from the door frame and I was not happy with the duration/strength of the finish, so I am pulling the pins and doing the work on saw horses myself this time.
Edit: I will thin the first coat of poly 3:1 with mineral spirits, which presumably would shorten drying time.
Any experience with this process is appreciated, especially with effect of the summer heat/humidity.
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 12:32 am
4
Posted on 7/28/17 at 12:43 am to GoIrish02
My poly usually dries enough to add a coat in about 6 hours...but I always give it 24 before actually using the object. You can definitely tell it doesn't harden before then...but it technically is 'dry'.
Never have thinner it out though
Never have thinner it out though
Posted on 7/28/17 at 12:51 am to SportTiger1
Thanks for the feedback. Do you sand/vacuum in between coats?
I am thinning the first coat so the poly will penetrate more into to wood initially, so the finish will last longer and the thinning reduces bubbles too. I've seen several videos on Youtube that thin out the first 2 coats and only go full strength on the final coat to achieve longer life of the application. The current application didn't penetrate and is starting to yellow and crack.
I am thinning the first coat so the poly will penetrate more into to wood initially, so the finish will last longer and the thinning reduces bubbles too. I've seen several videos on Youtube that thin out the first 2 coats and only go full strength on the final coat to achieve longer life of the application. The current application didn't penetrate and is starting to yellow and crack.
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 12:59 am
Posted on 7/28/17 at 12:57 am to GoIrish02
Do you have a glass door or will your house be open?
Sand, stain then hang the door back after the recommended drying time.
I would Spar in place and just put plastic down. By doing all your coats of spar with it laying flat you run the risk of dust, bugs and everything else that likes to settle in Spar.
If you do it this way just remember to leave your door open our you may glue it shut.
I refinished all my kitchen cabinets. Here are my steps
Take down, sand outside starting with 80 grit, get most finish off, wipe with mineral spirits, sand with 120 get the rest of satain off down to bare wood, wipe with mineral spirits, sand with 220 wipe with mineral spirits. Stir stain for a few minutes. Take an old t-shirt, cut off a sleeve, dung the sleeve in the stain, dont wring it, wipe with grain, against grain and in circular patterns. Let sit for 5 min or less. Take the rest of the t-shirt and wipe with the grain only. Take another t-shirt and wipe until i dont lift anymore stain. Let dry overnight.
2 coats of poly before sanding with 320 or 400 grit paper (whichever i have closest). Light pressure mainly dragging the paper. Usually only 1 back and forth. Feel with my hand for any poly bumps. Wipe with mineral spirits then 2 more coats and a final sand.
Wear rubber gloves. Your hands will sweat and if you touch the naked would your fingerprints may show up in the stain.
Im not a pro, but have done 2 kitchen this way and they came out very good. Also, if your going the route of thinning the spar, check the manufacturers recommendations. you may be able to thin it enough to make it a wipe on (which is easier just takes more coats usually 3 wipe ons equal 1 brush on, but the dry time is cut way down to make it quicker)
Sand, stain then hang the door back after the recommended drying time.
I would Spar in place and just put plastic down. By doing all your coats of spar with it laying flat you run the risk of dust, bugs and everything else that likes to settle in Spar.
If you do it this way just remember to leave your door open our you may glue it shut.
I refinished all my kitchen cabinets. Here are my steps
Take down, sand outside starting with 80 grit, get most finish off, wipe with mineral spirits, sand with 120 get the rest of satain off down to bare wood, wipe with mineral spirits, sand with 220 wipe with mineral spirits. Stir stain for a few minutes. Take an old t-shirt, cut off a sleeve, dung the sleeve in the stain, dont wring it, wipe with grain, against grain and in circular patterns. Let sit for 5 min or less. Take the rest of the t-shirt and wipe with the grain only. Take another t-shirt and wipe until i dont lift anymore stain. Let dry overnight.
2 coats of poly before sanding with 320 or 400 grit paper (whichever i have closest). Light pressure mainly dragging the paper. Usually only 1 back and forth. Feel with my hand for any poly bumps. Wipe with mineral spirits then 2 more coats and a final sand.
Wear rubber gloves. Your hands will sweat and if you touch the naked would your fingerprints may show up in the stain.
Im not a pro, but have done 2 kitchen this way and they came out very good. Also, if your going the route of thinning the spar, check the manufacturers recommendations. you may be able to thin it enough to make it a wipe on (which is easier just takes more coats usually 3 wipe ons equal 1 brush on, but the dry time is cut way down to make it quicker)
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 1:18 am
Posted on 7/28/17 at 1:02 am to Milk
Door will be open, I am going to tape a plastic drop cloth over my door for most of Saturday and put the door back on before I go to bed. Same thing for the last coat on Sunday, apply and let it dry for 4-6 hours, then rehang.
Posted on 7/28/17 at 1:19 am to GoIrish02
Sorry i edited.
Are you sure whoever did it last used spar and not poly? The yellow cracking and pealing is what poly does when exposed to that much sun. The UV breaks it down.
Are you sure whoever did it last used spar and not poly? The yellow cracking and pealing is what poly does when exposed to that much sun. The UV breaks it down.
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 1:21 am
Posted on 7/28/17 at 1:32 am to Milk
Yes, they used the same Minwax Helmsman spar urethane last time too. It was applied full strength, Minwax says it is designed to resist UV rays but the finish is cracking and the stain is fading.
From everything I read, the initial thinning allows the urethane to penetrate the wood so the underlying finish is stronger. Ideally, one would only have to sand and reapply the last coat every 2-3 years with this method.
Edit: Consensus seems to be thin to 50/50 for wipe on, ~75/25 for brush application.
From everything I read, the initial thinning allows the urethane to penetrate the wood so the underlying finish is stronger. Ideally, one would only have to sand and reapply the last coat every 2-3 years with this method.
Edit: Consensus seems to be thin to 50/50 for wipe on, ~75/25 for brush application.
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 2:52 am
Posted on 7/28/17 at 7:17 am to GoIrish02
Make sure that you seal the bottom and top of the door as well with several coats. The open grains allow moisture to penetrate and cause failure from within. The bottom is more important because it is more exposed to the sun which causes the moisture to expand. Atmospheric moisture is what I'm referring to. Humidity.
This post was edited on 7/28/17 at 7:20 am
Posted on 7/28/17 at 7:59 am to Good Times
Perhaps a different route?
I used to refinish like everyone else. Last time I pulled it I took a board I stained to the color I wanted and went to the paint Store and got a great exrterior paint mixed that color and used a stencil to grain the second coat.
Came out really well and it's been years and still looks great.
Good luck
I used to refinish like everyone else. Last time I pulled it I took a board I stained to the color I wanted and went to the paint Store and got a great exrterior paint mixed that color and used a stencil to grain the second coat.
Came out really well and it's been years and still looks great.
Good luck
Posted on 7/28/17 at 8:17 am to thejudge
Isn't marine varnish the best product to use?
Posted on 7/28/17 at 8:32 am to GoIrish02
It is forecast to rain all weekend. Which means higher than usual humidity. I would delay the project.
I redid one and was positive it was dry. Installed overnight and it was stuck to the weather stripping the next morning and turned into a huge PITA.
Wait until it is somewhat dry outside and give it longer than you think it needs to set before reinstalling.
I redid one and was positive it was dry. Installed overnight and it was stuck to the weather stripping the next morning and turned into a huge PITA.
Wait until it is somewhat dry outside and give it longer than you think it needs to set before reinstalling.
Posted on 7/28/17 at 9:05 am to GoIrish02
OP, are you dead set on doing it now? I do mine once every two years, but I usually pick a weekend in the spring when the weathers nice.
My routine is up early, remove door and sand/strip. Prep work and first coat, about 2 hrs dry time, second coat, about 2 hrs dry time, one coat urethane, dry for 3 hrs then second coat. Door back on the hinges by dark. I usually put up my EZup tent to keep it out of the sun and prevent cloudy finish on the urethane. I use that exterior Minwax Spar Urethane from Lowes in the green can. Ive always been pleased with the results.
One key I bought a random orbital sander when I did it this spring. Holy hell does it do a better job than my finishing sander.
My routine is up early, remove door and sand/strip. Prep work and first coat, about 2 hrs dry time, second coat, about 2 hrs dry time, one coat urethane, dry for 3 hrs then second coat. Door back on the hinges by dark. I usually put up my EZup tent to keep it out of the sun and prevent cloudy finish on the urethane. I use that exterior Minwax Spar Urethane from Lowes in the green can. Ive always been pleased with the results.
One key I bought a random orbital sander when I did it this spring. Holy hell does it do a better job than my finishing sander.
Posted on 7/28/17 at 9:17 am to jbgleason
quote:
It is forecast to rain all weekend. Which means higher than usual humidity. I would delay the project.
I redid one and was positive it was dry. Installed overnight and it was stuck to the weather stripping the next morning and turned into a huge PITA.
Wait until it is somewhat dry outside and give it longer than you think it needs to set before reinstalling.
Definitely agree. Just because it feels dry to the touch doesnt mean it's really dry. poly will harden quite a bit after the first day...that just tells you its still curing.
Posted on 7/28/17 at 9:18 am to tigerfan 33
Spar varnish is outdoor polyurethane with UV resistant resins, but I've seen Epifanes mentioned online as an alternative, specifically designed for marine/outdoor use. I'm open to alternatives, I see Rustoleum has a marine spar varnish too.
Looks like the weather may delay this for a few weeks though.
Looks like the weather may delay this for a few weeks though.
Posted on 7/28/17 at 12:07 pm to GoIrish02
Most yachts with exterior wood are going with awlgrip clear paint. It's a 2 part and will dry super fast. It's also been an industry standard for topcoats on boats and airplanes for a very long time. It will last much longer than any other product unless you do what I mention in the next paragraph.
If using varnish or poly, most people don't realize the UV properties break down in a year or so. Yearly sanding and adding a coat or two will keep the finish from cracking/peeling for a very long time (10 years or more) in direct sunlight. With awlgrip clear, you don't have to do this.
Good luck, I just stripped and finished some 14' doors for my dad. I hate refinishing doors. Lol
If using varnish or poly, most people don't realize the UV properties break down in a year or so. Yearly sanding and adding a coat or two will keep the finish from cracking/peeling for a very long time (10 years or more) in direct sunlight. With awlgrip clear, you don't have to do this.
Good luck, I just stripped and finished some 14' doors for my dad. I hate refinishing doors. Lol
Posted on 7/30/17 at 2:15 pm to Sparkplug#1
Thanks for the advice, prepping for this makes annual re-coating seem like the best course going forward.
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