- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Patching small holes and leaky rivets in an aluminum watercraft
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:14 am
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:14 am
I wonder if anyone on here has experience with patching small holes and sealing around rivets in an aluminum watercraft. I am looking for the best fix method for cost and lack of marine tools/shop to do it with/in.
I have a 30-year-old aluminum canoe that spent the majority of its life exposed to salty air and brought in and out of brackish to salty water, which it would be rinsed off afterwards. Despite proper care, over time it has succumbed to the elements.
I recently acquired the canoe. The boat itself is fine, there are just two slow leaks that the placement of a sponge or two in the hull can stop on a short paddle, and there are some holes that have since been opened up and made jagged due to oxidation and stripping. Both these problems cause leaks.
I am just wondering if any of you guys have any advice for me.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 30-year-old aluminum canoe that spent the majority of its life exposed to salty air and brought in and out of brackish to salty water, which it would be rinsed off afterwards. Despite proper care, over time it has succumbed to the elements.
I recently acquired the canoe. The boat itself is fine, there are just two slow leaks that the placement of a sponge or two in the hull can stop on a short paddle, and there are some holes that have since been opened up and made jagged due to oxidation and stripping. Both these problems cause leaks.
I am just wondering if any of you guys have any advice for me.
Thanks in advance.
9
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:20 am to Pectus
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:25 am to NYCAuburn
Can I get it in aluminum color? 
I'd rather use something made for marine usage.
I'd rather use something made for marine usage.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:29 am to Pectus
Are the rivets real loose? Leaks all over or in a couple of places?
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:29 am to Pectus
have you tried any of the 3m stuff? 5200, 4200, 4000 etc...
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:40 am to wickowick
quote:
Are the rivets real loose? Leaks all over or in a couple of places?
Rivets are not loose. It leaks out from under 2 ribs in the canoe.
Also, the skeg is what has the holes on it. the two pieces that make up the walls of the canoe meet there and there is a strip that joins them. The holes are on that. I've never seen any water come out of them, but I would like to take care of it to prevent any future problems.
quote:
have you tried any of the 3m stuff? 5200, 4200, 4000 etc...
I've looked into it and was researching it. I might want something that is aluminum-based so that it will last and be as resilient as the boat itself. I do realize I am then getting into work that I can't do from the parking lot. Maybe.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:42 am to Pectus
JB weld is the redneck way to do it.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 8:48 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
There are aluminum patch things that come in a tube. I have used them before with no problems. It has, I guess aluminum powder, encircling some catalyst. Mix them and wait an hour and you can grind on it.
They have them at West Marine
They have them at West Marine
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:01 am to Pectus
quote:
have you tried any of the 3m stuff? 5200, 4200, 4000 etc...
I can assure you 5200 will get the job done. It sounds like electrolysis is occurring. If its pin holes in what looks like corrosion probably the case. Another thing, don't store it on the new treated timber, it eats right thru.
have you tried any of the 3m stuff? 5200, 4200, 4000 etc...
I can assure you 5200 will get the job done. It sounds like electrolysis is occurring. If its pin holes in what looks like corrosion probably the case. Another thing, don't store it on the new treated timber, it eats right thru.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:08 am to Pectus
I've replaced loose/leaking rivets before. If the rivet isn't deteriorated, you can easily tighten it. All you need to do is have someone hold a sledge on one side of the rivet while you peen over the other side. If needed, you can drill out the rivet to replace it. I bought replacement rivets at Grainger. Tinboats.net has a lot of info on working on aluminum boats.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:08 am to Pectus
JB weld
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:21 am to Hammertime
quote:
There are aluminum patch things that come in a tube. I have used them before with no problems. It has, I guess aluminum powder, encircling some catalyst. Mix them and wait an hour and you can grind on it.
They have them at West Marine
Sweet. This sounds like it could be the stuff!
And there was corrosion due to electrolysis. The weird thing is, it didn't occur anywhere that it was in contact with the ground.
This post was edited on 2/11/13 at 9:22 am
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:41 am to Pectus
flex seal then paint over it if the color offends you. i have an old Richline canoe that has the same issues.
This post was edited on 2/11/13 at 10:04 am
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:46 am to Pectus
I would say weld over the rivets, but in a canoe that's probably not necessary. I patched a few holes in my aluminum boat with some marine grade silicone from the hardware store. It worked well and has held up for a few years now
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:46 am to Capt ST
I've used duct tape before needless to say it wasnt one of my brightest moments!
needless to say it wasnt one of my brightest moments!Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:50 am to Flamefighter
I used j b weld once it worked!
Posted on 2/11/13 at 9:59 am to Knuckle Child
quote:
I would say weld over the rivets, but in a canoe that's probably not necessary. I patched a few holes in my aluminum boat with some marine grade silicone from the hardware store. It worked well and has held up for a few years now
That is the most permanent option, however it also adds a lot of weight to the boat.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 11:07 am to Pectus
I was going to start another thread for my OB product test of the almighty Flex Seal but this thread will do. I have a very leaky aluminum boat. All the rivets leak and I also had a small hole about the size of pencil lead.
I started off by wire wheeling all the rivets
Then I sprayed flex seal around all the rivets and used JB weld on the small hole
I then coated the entire bottom with roll on bed liner that can be bought from autozone or Wally world.
I'm very satisfied with the finished product. The boat no longer leaks and it looks great. Before I would have to run the bilge every 15 minutes or I would sink. Now no water.
I started off by wire wheeling all the rivets
Then I sprayed flex seal around all the rivets and used JB weld on the small hole
I then coated the entire bottom with roll on bed liner that can be bought from autozone or Wally world.
I'm very satisfied with the finished product. The boat no longer leaks and it looks great. Before I would have to run the bilge every 15 minutes or I would sink. Now no water.
Posted on 2/11/13 at 11:16 am to HeadBusta4LSU
quote:
HeadBusta4LSU
Posted on 2/11/13 at 11:20 am to AlxTgr
Lots of ways to do it. But don't have any doubts about 5200. When that boat finally corrodes to dust the 5200 will still be there. That shite's indestructible. Just don't get it on anything you don't want it on because it will never come off.
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News