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OB Woodworkers: benchtop planer blade question

Posted on 4/15/16 at 9:28 pm
Posted by poochie
Houma, la
Member since Apr 2007
6168 posts
Posted on 4/15/16 at 9:28 pm
What type/brand/material blades do you use on your bench top planers? I have a rigid benchtop and have used high strength steel so far. First set lasted a while but I got into some reclaimed wood recently and its eating these blades up. One project usually eats up one side of the blades.
Posted by Boston911
Lafayette
Member since Dec 2013
1926 posts
Posted on 4/15/16 at 10:20 pm to
I run reclaimed wood almost 100% of the time, BUT, I'm also running it after passing by a metal detector first. If you aren't using a metal detector, it really doesn't matter what type of blades you use, metal will eat them
Posted by Sparkplug#1
Member since May 2013
7352 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 6:14 am to
I use steel. The wood I plane is very hard and carbide chips very easily. Costs like $6 to get the knifes sharpened or 30 minutes of my time to do it myself.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
24913 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 6:24 am to
I haven't run reclaimed through mine

So many things in there that can ruin blades. Metal, sand, etc.
Posted by CHEDBALLZ
South Central LA
Member since Dec 2009
21892 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 6:53 am to
infinity cutting tools

I have a set of these waiting to go on my DW735 when they dull out, suppose to be some good ones.


ETA. The guy I send my stuff to get things sharpened wants 50cents an inch. That's 13" xs 6 xs .5 so $39. I need to get with Sparkplugs guy.
This post was edited on 4/16/16 at 6:57 am
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 7:25 am to
quote:

Costs like $6 to get the knifes sharpened


Where at?

Have a Dewalt. Dam new blades are $60 a set.
Posted by Sparkplug#1
Member since May 2013
7352 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 8:56 am to
My planer is 109 years old. It's has a 24" 2 knife cutter head with 24" knives. It's not the new spiral configuration, but gets the job done with no tear outs unless its highly figured wood. Southern Saw out on Nola sharpens all of my blades...circular saw, RAS, router bits, etc.
Posted by poochie
Houma, la
Member since Apr 2007
6168 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 10:27 am to
Good point on the metal. What type of metal detector do you use? Every few boards there's a nail or something that pops up. But I have a feeling that it's more than just nails.

The middle of the blades are most worn moving out toward each end. I try to run wood through each inch of blade but the middle is in on each pass.

For reclaimed, do y'all run rough wood through or clean/hand plane before y'all bench top plane? Sand/junk may me hurting me.

Also the blades I used (and the only blades I could find) are $30 for a set of 3, so they're essentially disposable. Ridged planet model R4331.
Posted by Cracker
in a box
Member since Nov 2009
17657 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 10:27 am to
On reclaimed lumber pressure wash that stuff before you plane if if doing reclaim you gonna go through some blades but HSS is the best thing to use
Posted by Sparkplug#1
Member since May 2013
7352 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 10:45 am to
quote:

The middle of the blades are most worn moving out toward each end. I try to run wood through each inch of blade but the middle is in on each pass.


Do you have height adjustment screws on your cutter head?
Posted by Chuckd
Louisiana
Member since May 2013
797 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 10:46 am to
Yea, what cracker said. Pressure wash the wood. I don't have a planer yet, nor do I mess with reclaimed wood but I'm told that it's dirt down in the reclaimed wood that dulls the blades quicker.
Posted by poochie
Houma, la
Member since Apr 2007
6168 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 1:32 pm to
Thanks for the tips! I'll pressure wash what I have and see how that works.
Posted by Boston911
Lafayette
Member since Dec 2013
1926 posts
Posted on 4/16/16 at 8:39 pm to
I bought a Garrett wand, paid about $130
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