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re: If you don't know how to buff a vehicle, you should learn.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 1:55 pm to bapple
Posted on 4/25/16 at 1:55 pm to bapple
Agree with most of what you said...
I just was giving guys a heads up before they went wild and started compunding a two-year old paint job.
Well, I kinda agree, but you are now talking about something that is beyond the scope of a beginner, IMO.
Paint correction on a new factory finish is best left up those that do it every day.
Clear coat is paint (as you know). If anyone starts to see a lot of color on the pads, stop 5 minutes ago.
I just was giving guys a heads up before they went wild and started compunding a two-year old paint job.
quote:
Newer vehicles often need compounding. The finish done to paint at factories is generally piss poor, even on expensive stuff from Italy.
Well, I kinda agree, but you are now talking about something that is beyond the scope of a beginner, IMO.
Paint correction on a new factory finish is best left up those that do it every day.
Clear coat is paint (as you know). If anyone starts to see a lot of color on the pads, stop 5 minutes ago.
1
Posted on 4/25/16 at 1:57 pm to VetteGuy
quote:
Paint correction on a new factory finish is best left up those that do it every day.
Completely untrue. New paints are much easier to compound because there are fewer swirls and rids. Older paints that require wet sanding to remove defects are better left to professionals.
A beginner would be perfectly fine starting on a new car. Just do a test panel on the hood and start with a light cut. The rest is cake.
quote:
Clear coat is paint (as you know). If anyone starts to see a lot of color on the pads, stop 5 minutes ago.
Unless the clear coat has oxidation. You will see an extremely dirty pad as you go. But in that case I advise using 2 or 3 different pads to finish the car.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:00 pm to bhtigerfan
What about using a clay bar and then waxing? Thanks. I have a Tacoma, the paint is thin and getting chalky. I don't want to get mechanized with the polishing if I don't have to.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:02 pm to White Bear
quote:
What about using a clay bar and then waxing?
Clay bar only removes contaminants from the surface of the paint without actually cutting into and smoothing out the clear coat.
You will have an extremely smooth paint job and a very clean car with a clay/wax job. But when the sun hits it, you will still see swirl marks. If you want to remove those, compounding and polishing is necessary.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:07 pm to bapple
cool. Thanks, that's really all I want to do, slick it up and be able to wax it and make it shite. At an angle now, it looks shiny, but straight on it's dull. I've neglected it a bit. It's an 07 and I don't think it has a clear coat, white.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:10 pm to bapple
I cant imagine spending 100s of dollars to buy the equipment to have on hand to do something that I could pay someone 100s of dollars to do.
I wouldn't buff a car but a few times in 5-6 years, and I don't see the need to risk screwing up my finish for a marginal savings at best.
I wouldn't buff a car but a few times in 5-6 years, and I don't see the need to risk screwing up my finish for a marginal savings at best.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:10 pm to White Bear
Probably correct, I know my white Tundra did not have a clear coat. Bastards.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:12 pm to DownSouthDave
This red clay mud up here has stained one of the rear quarter panels a little. wtf?
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:17 pm to bapple
quote:
completely untrue
I agree. Most large dealerships have body shops and paint booths which lead to fallout. Add in rail dust that is mopped around by some car porter, a few tunnel washes while it's on the lot, and a pressure washing to knock off the pollen. New cars get hacked from the start. Order a car, tell the dealership not to prep it, drive it to the best detailer in town for correction and some level of clear bra. Schedule appointments for maintenance washes.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:17 pm to White Bear
quote:
It's an 07 and I don't think it has a clear coat, white.
I would be shocked if a car built in 2007 did not have a clear coat. Even most fleet vehicles have clear coats.
FWIW I've done a one-step polish on a 2008 Toyota Tundra. It did have a clear coat but was heavily oxidized so it didn't appear like it did. When paint is neglected it will play tricks on you.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:21 pm to bapple
My Tundra was an 08. White was the only color not to get a clear coat from the factory.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:21 pm to pjab
quote:
Order a car, tell the dealership not to prep it, drive it to the best detailer in town for correction and some level of clear bra. Schedule appointments for maintenance washes.
This is the only part I disagree with. Clear bra is a gigantic pain in the arse. And I'll make a list since most here know I like lists
1. It oxidizes faster in the sun than paint. So you'll eventually have a layer of yellow draped over the front of your vehicle.
2. It scratches easier than paint so you will have a scratched yellow layer draped over your vehicle.
3. Polishing it will not remove the scratches but will stain the clear bra, so you will have a stained, scratched, yellow layer draped over your vehicle. This also includes bug guts that stain your clear bra, which is what it's designed to prevent from hitting your paint in the first place.
4. If you wish to remove the clear bra, buy a powerful heat gun, put on some serious gloves, and set aside about 5 hours. Also be prepared to be covered in glue when you're done.
I usually just advise people get used to tiny rock and bug marks. It's much easier to keep the paint clear and clean than keeping up with a clear bra. Just don't let bug guts or bird shite sit on your paint for too long or it will etch into your clear coat.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:22 pm to DownSouthDave
quote:
My Tundra was an 08. White was the only color not to get a clear coat from the factory.
I must've not noticed that when I polished it. Although surprised, I stand corrected.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:25 pm to bapple
That's certainly not the gospel, but it's what I recall reading when I was having trouble with the paint job. It's a single stage paint, might have something in it to help protect, but no clear coat.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:30 pm to bapple
quote:How is the stuff removing anything from the paint if there is clear coat?
Clay bar only removes contaminants from the surface of the paint without actually cutting into and smoothing out the clear coat.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:32 pm to DownSouthDave
I used to detail/paint correct/etc. cars as a side job. I worked on a white Tundra without clear coat. It must've been an 08.
Polishing really isn't rocket science. If you want to learn how to compound, buy a DA polisher (not rotary), a super light cutting compound (i.e. Sonus SFX-1 or SFX-2), and a light cutting pad (white Lake Country CCS). Pad selection is very important.
It's pretty hard to mess a finish up with the above stuff, and it'll help you get used to polishing technique and mechanics. Again, it's really not that difficult.
Polishing really isn't rocket science. If you want to learn how to compound, buy a DA polisher (not rotary), a super light cutting compound (i.e. Sonus SFX-1 or SFX-2), and a light cutting pad (white Lake Country CCS). Pad selection is very important.
It's pretty hard to mess a finish up with the above stuff, and it'll help you get used to polishing technique and mechanics. Again, it's really not that difficult.
This post was edited on 4/25/16 at 2:35 pm
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:34 pm to AlxTgr
quote:
How is the stuff removing anything from the paint if there is clear coat?
Clay removes surface contaminants, like old bug residue, small bits of tar, or anything else that has "stuck" to the clear coat. As the clay is worked over the paint, it lifts the contaminants from the clear coat surface.
ETA: I always clay my vehicle as the seasons change. If you're going to clay, make sure to knead the clay every so often so the clay that's working the clear coat is fairly clean. Once the clay becomes difficult to knead to the point of being semi-clean, it's time for new clay.
This post was edited on 4/25/16 at 2:36 pm
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:35 pm to bhtigerfan
quote:
Y'all some lazy motherfrickers!
Nah, we're men....with trucks. You Sequoia drivers can worry about shininess.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:36 pm to Jester
quote:
Nah, we're men....with trucks.
Yeah man. Taking care of stuff you spent a ton of money on is totally woman-like.
Posted on 4/25/16 at 2:41 pm to bluemoons
quote:How much do you charge?
Clay removes surface contaminants, like old bug residue, small bits of tar, or anything else that has "stuck" to the clear coat. As the clay is worked over the paint, it lifts the contaminants from the clear coat surface.
ETA: I always clay my vehicle as the seasons change. If you're going to clay, make sure to knead the clay every so often so the clay that's working the clear coat is fairly clean. Once the clay becomes difficult to knead to the point of being semi-clean, it's time for new clay.
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