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Started By
Message
Gel coat baws: recommend me a restorer product
Posted on 8/18/17 at 8:32 am
Posted on 8/18/17 at 8:32 am
Picked up a sweet little fish and ski yesterday I need to make shine before I get rid of it.
TIA.
TIA.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 8:57 am to bbvdd
3M micro finishing compound "finesse it". It's like $50+ a bottle but it will last forever and you really don't need much.
Then a good marine wax.
Then a good marine wax.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:35 am to bamarep
Posted on 8/18/17 at 9:50 am to SeaPickle
Is that your boat? And did you use a buffer/polisher, or did both steps by hand?
Posted on 8/18/17 at 10:08 am to Dock Holiday
That's my boat. I do this by hand with microfiber towel. i only use 925 every 2-3 months. I use automotive soap to clean then the 920 (if needed) to get anything remaining on the hull. 925 to seal it in.
I will say that my boat is 15 months old - bought new so that helps but it looks like this to this day. Ive seen a guy use this stuff on older hulls and made them look new.
I will say that my boat is 15 months old - bought new so that helps but it looks like this to this day. Ive seen a guy use this stuff on older hulls and made them look new.
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 10:39 am
Posted on 8/18/17 at 10:31 am to SeaPickle
New that is fine, but if you are doing an old boat or are trying to touch up repair spots then you will need a compound and then a wax.
You use the compound to remove oxidation and buff up the gel coat back to a shine, then wax to protect it.
You use the compound to remove oxidation and buff up the gel coat back to a shine, then wax to protect it.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 10:34 am to eng08
920 -
LINK
ive seen it get some heavy shite off. They may have a more heavy duty compound too
quote:
Mild-cut, compound removes film, light oxidation/discoloration/chalkiness, and tough stains from fiberglass boat finishes. Restores original color and gloss and facilitates the easy application of Collinite’s last step waxes; improving wax bond, spread/coverage and durability. Handcrafted and hand-poured in the USA.
LINK
ive seen it get some heavy shite off. They may have a more heavy duty compound too
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 10:37 am
Posted on 8/18/17 at 10:53 am to SeaPickle
This rig has heavy oxidation.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 11:20 am to bamarep
quote:
collonite 920 and 925
Neither of those products is going to do anything for heavy oxidation besides frustrate you.
Start with 3M Compound and Finishing Material on a full wool compounding pad. That will help you with the oxidation, but you'll need to follow up with a product like a Finesse It II on a foam pad or hybrid wool polishing pad to buff out the compound marring. After that, wax with Collinite Fleetwax Paste. There are a lot of products out there, but Collinite is the most durable and long-lasting that I've seen.
Use a rotary buffer and run around 1500-1700rpms. Don't stay in one area for too long and work in small sections. Gelcoat is a lot more durable than clearcoat, but you can burn it if you're not careful. Don't apply too much pressure and keep moving, and you'll be fine.
Depending on how bad the oxidation is, the boat may need wet sanding first. If that's the case, you sand, compound, polish, then wax. It is a lot of work, so be prepared for that. Also, like I said earlier, a rotary (as opposed to a random orbital) will take a lot of the work out of it.
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 11:22 am
Posted on 8/18/17 at 11:20 am to bamarep
I can't say it will or won't work based on that. Id say you for sure need a buffer no matter what.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 11:47 am to bluemoons
quote:
Start with 3M Compound
This is why I asked. A while back I restored a heavily neglected and oxidized boat and it was a multi-step process. I actually stripped everything off (cleats, grab bar, gauges, etc) did a two step hand wet sand process, then 3M compound with commercial polisher, then polish compound with polisher again, then multiple coats of wax. I had countless hours in the boat, but it came out fantastic. Wondering if this stuff could cut a step or two out of the process, but seriously doubting it.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 12:16 pm to Dock Holiday
When I would repair a ding on my racing sailboat I did gelciat as a top layer, then wet sanded smooth, then you had to use the 3m compound to get the shine back. If you just went straight to wax you would notice the repair.
The 3M compound I reccomend is like a 2000 or 3000 grit.
I have used the compound to restore 10 yr old sun bleached and oxidized boats as well.
You first step doing a quick wet sand probably helped though.
The 3M compound I reccomend is like a 2000 or 3000 grit.
I have used the compound to restore 10 yr old sun bleached and oxidized boats as well.
You first step doing a quick wet sand probably helped though.
Posted on 8/18/17 at 1:44 pm to bamarep
There's a product by 3m called "restore and wax" that I used on my boat that did wonders
Posted on 8/18/17 at 1:45 pm to bamarep
quote:
This rig has heavy oxidation.
Wet sand - compound - polish - sealer - wax
Posted on 8/18/17 at 3:03 pm to down time
Wet sand, then coat the entire thing in Zep high shine Acrylic floor wax from Lowes, a gallon should last your the rest of your life. Seriously, I don't have any pictures on me to attach but did the same thing to my 96 Bass Boat and it looks like new.
Pour the floor wax in a container, take a microfiber towel and get it soaked, wring it out, wipe in the same motion all the way around the boat wetting as needed. Not to much bc it will run. After about the fourth coat (it pretty much dries by the time you get to the end of each coat) it will shine like new. Until you get about four coats on it is going to look like SHI!, but keep going it will start to shine up. Do it in the shade, in the sun it dries to quick and can get a little gummy and will smear.
Stored in the sun, I could get about 6 months with it looking new. I started storing it inside and all I do is wash it in the beginning of the year and put on a maintenance coat or two. They make some stuff called vertiglass, that is basically the same thing but with UV inhibiters in it. I redid mine when I moved it inside six years ago and I will probably strip it and redo it from the beginning this coming spring. Easily strips off with the Zep floor wax stripper.
People have been doing it with their fiberglass RVs for years.
Other option, wet sand the have it clear coated.
Pour the floor wax in a container, take a microfiber towel and get it soaked, wring it out, wipe in the same motion all the way around the boat wetting as needed. Not to much bc it will run. After about the fourth coat (it pretty much dries by the time you get to the end of each coat) it will shine like new. Until you get about four coats on it is going to look like SHI!, but keep going it will start to shine up. Do it in the shade, in the sun it dries to quick and can get a little gummy and will smear.
Stored in the sun, I could get about 6 months with it looking new. I started storing it inside and all I do is wash it in the beginning of the year and put on a maintenance coat or two. They make some stuff called vertiglass, that is basically the same thing but with UV inhibiters in it. I redid mine when I moved it inside six years ago and I will probably strip it and redo it from the beginning this coming spring. Easily strips off with the Zep floor wax stripper.
People have been doing it with their fiberglass RVs for years.
Other option, wet sand the have it clear coated.
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 3:05 pm
Posted on 8/18/17 at 4:41 pm to td1
Before you start wet sanding, just test an area that looks the worst with the buffing compound. If that doesn't work, then wet sand.
Start with probably 400-600 grit or so.
If you need more get lower grit.
Start with probably 400-600 grit or so.
If you need more get lower grit.
This post was edited on 8/18/17 at 4:42 pm
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