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Fall Lawn Guide Thread
Posted on 10/5/16 at 8:27 pm
Posted on 10/5/16 at 8:27 pm
So, I know nothing about pre-emergents or lawn care. Place to ask and answer questions to help us all get ready for spring by preparing this fall. I'll try to update the OP with various sections and answers as well as links. I'll start with my questions.
PRE-EMERGENT
What does it do:
Does it help with existing weeds:
When to apply:
Variety of kinds/brands:
Tips on how to use it:
Tips on things to avoid:
FERTILIZER(not sure if this applies for the fall)
Please let me know other sections to add. Thanks in advance for everyone's input.
PRE-EMERGENT
What does it do:
Does it help with existing weeds:
When to apply:
Variety of kinds/brands:
Tips on how to use it:
Tips on things to avoid:
FERTILIZER(not sure if this applies for the fall)
Please let me know other sections to add. Thanks in advance for everyone's input.
Posted on 10/5/16 at 8:48 pm to VanRIch
Pre emergent is a preventer, it prevents weeds from germinating., it will not do anything to existing weeds you need to either pull them or spray with round up (non selective) or weed b gone type product (selective). Right now is a good time to put out a pre emergent as it will keep winter weeds down and make spring clean up much easier, I use fertilome product with dimension, I use it on the lawn and in flower beds, I will add another application to the flower beds in spring
I do not use any fertilizer or winterizer in the fall, and very little in the spring
I do not use any fertilizer or winterizer in the fall, and very little in the spring
This post was edited on 10/5/16 at 8:50 pm
Posted on 10/6/16 at 6:48 am to Tigerpaw123
Can you post a picture of the bag or link the fertilome product you use? What is the latest you can spread this? It doesnt harm any plants in the flower beds? What if I already have a few weeds in there?
Another question. I have the most aggravating fricking nut grass problem. It grows in my flower beds and then starts leaking into my yard. I've sprayed with some stuff called "Image" and will kill for a little while but always turns back up after about 2 months. What can I do here?
Another question. I have the most aggravating fricking nut grass problem. It grows in my flower beds and then starts leaking into my yard. I've sprayed with some stuff called "Image" and will kill for a little while but always turns back up after about 2 months. What can I do here?
Posted on 10/6/16 at 7:43 am to VanRIch
Good thread. I need some direction myself. Is it too late to apply something like weed b gone before I do a pre-emergent?
Posted on 10/6/16 at 7:52 am to VanRIch
Without knowing what turf grass you have, I'll just say that I use Simazine in my home lawn of centipede, and Specticle in the Bermuda turf at work. Both applied around 1st or 2nd week in Nov.
Posted on 10/6/16 at 8:16 am to VanRIch
Posted on 10/6/16 at 9:54 am to CajunCommander
It will not harm anything that is established, flowers, plants, shrubs or weeds
I would put it out in the next month
pull what weeds you already have
nut grass is always a bitch, I have had decent luck with the image product, but it takes several applications 7-10 days apart, and unless you treat your yard and all of your neighbors yards, it will continue to come back
This post was edited on 10/6/16 at 9:55 am
Posted on 10/6/16 at 12:24 pm to VanRIch
My method is to winterize before the grass goes dormant in the fall with a ferti-Lome granular that contains preemergent. Then I will follow the lsuag chart posted above to treat specific weeds I am having problems with. The weed free Zone is a solid product to put down in late fall as winter weeds begin to emerge.
Although some weeds like Virginia buttonweed will usually survive the weed free Zone treatment.
In the spring I apply a lawn fertilizer along with a broadleaf killer such as weed free Zone. Additionally, if there are problem weeds, usually sedge, I will again use the lsu chart to fight them back during the early stages before they are established.
Although some weeds like Virginia buttonweed will usually survive the weed free Zone treatment.
In the spring I apply a lawn fertilizer along with a broadleaf killer such as weed free Zone. Additionally, if there are problem weeds, usually sedge, I will again use the lsu chart to fight them back during the early stages before they are established.
This post was edited on 10/6/16 at 12:26 pm
Posted on 10/6/16 at 12:31 pm to CajunCommander
Use sedgehammer ( LINK) for the nutsedge. I use it in my beds and yard, spot spray in the beds. I usually follow up a week later when it starts yellowing.
Do not pull nutsedge, the tubules have already spread before the sedge is visible above ground. A lot of times pulling them exacerbates the problem.
Do not pull nutsedge, the tubules have already spread before the sedge is visible above ground. A lot of times pulling them exacerbates the problem.
Posted on 10/6/16 at 1:23 pm to VanRIch
quote:
PRE-EMERGENT
Does it help with existing weeds
Come on maaaann. Context clues.
Posted on 10/6/16 at 1:37 pm to Creamer
Good deal I'll try I remember to update tonight so people won't have to read thru the entire thread if it gets long.
Posted on 10/6/16 at 1:38 pm to jimbeam
Oh no!!! Please forgive me!!
Some weeds are dormant during the winter and I didn't know if pre-emergent meant that it would also help before they became active in the spring also. Thus the reason for the thread. Thanks for contributing.
Some weeds are dormant during the winter and I didn't know if pre-emergent meant that it would also help before they became active in the spring also. Thus the reason for the thread. Thanks for contributing.
This post was edited on 10/6/16 at 1:41 pm
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