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Do Vented Brake Rotors Make a Difference
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:46 pm
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:46 pm
Just ordered a pair of zinc coated, vented and drilled brake rotors and good ceramic pads for the rear of my Tahoe. Do these really make a difference or am I getting ripped off. All together, the set of two cost around $125.
13
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:47 pm to Jack Ruby
Seems like a question you would ask before buying...
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:49 pm to Jack Ruby
quote:
All together, the set of two cost around $125.
That seems suspiciously cheap
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:54 pm to DownSouthDave
I can cancel before they ship.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 8:56 pm to Jack Ruby
quote:
Do these really make a difference or am I getting ripped off.
Drilled and slotted rotors are designed to dissipate more heat and reduce brake fade. Unless you plan to drive mountain roads daily or go to a race track with your truck, it probably isn't necessary.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 9:04 pm to Jack Ruby
quote:
for the rear of my Tahoe
Would have done better by putting them on the front. They help out if you tow things. do more to prevent brake fade and warping due to heat as already stated.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 9:07 pm to biohzrd
Brakes are something that I always 100% of the time use only OEM stuff for.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 9:27 pm to Jack Ruby
Waste of money on a Tahoe. Like others stated, helps with heat and gases created from braking.
This post was edited on 6/12/17 at 9:28 pm
Posted on 6/12/17 at 9:41 pm to Jack Ruby
Back rotors are generally for stability. Front rotors and pads do almost all of the work. If you have heat issues, it would be up front. Also, I think of the drilled rotors as being for higher performance cars. Besides, in my experience, heat isn't the primary cause of rotor warpage. The culprit is usually over-tightened lugs nuts. Never use an impact driver to torque lug nuts and your rotors will be happier.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 9:58 pm to Jack Ruby
Return them. Not worth it on that truck and on the rear. On top of that it will likely crack from hole to hole in that setup. I'd stick with a smooth surface on that application. Get better material pads and good rotors.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 10:02 pm to Jack Ruby
On rear? Maybe better fade resistance when towing and going down hill. Cross-drilled rotors are virtually worthless for any street driven vehicle, worse when improperly drilled which can promote stress cracks and eventual rotor failure.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 10:46 pm to Jack Ruby
Heat is only a problem if you are frequently using your brakes, like in racing.
Posted on 6/12/17 at 10:51 pm to Jack Ruby
The pricing alone makes me wonder about the quality of the parts.
I think quality solid rotors would be fine on your Tahoe.
Spend the money on good pads.
FWIW typically the factory pads have a good balance of life, quiet braking, and good wet performance. Unless the factory pads performed poorly I would stick with them.
I think quality solid rotors would be fine on your Tahoe.
Spend the money on good pads.
FWIW typically the factory pads have a good balance of life, quiet braking, and good wet performance. Unless the factory pads performed poorly I would stick with them.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 5:28 am to Jack Ruby
I would not bother with the rear because most of the braking is handled in front.
Owners will work on their front brakes, such as changing the front pads, sooner then changing anything on the back, if at all.
Owners will work on their front brakes, such as changing the front pads, sooner then changing anything on the back, if at all.
This post was edited on 6/13/17 at 7:12 am
Posted on 6/13/17 at 7:08 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Brakes are something that I always 100% of the time use only OEM stuff for.
You must not drive a Ford truck.
Their front brake setup sucks, and I have driven nothing but Fords for quite a while. I just go in knowing I will have to spend the money putting better rotors/pads on the front. 27K miles on my new truck and they are starting to warp.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 8:23 am to Jack Ruby
quote:
Do Vented Brake Rotors Make a Difference
In my experience, not really. A quality set of pads will make a difference.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 8:44 am to shawnlsu
I got over 225k miles on the factory brakes on my 3/4 ton chevy. The brakes on that thing are incredible. I just changed all the pads/rotors/hoses and the front pads still had a ways to go. The rotors were warped and worn out pretty good though.
That sounds screwed up to me. I've never had to change brakes before 100k miles on anything.
That sounds screwed up to me. I've never had to change brakes before 100k miles on anything.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 10:00 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
There's nothing wrong with Ford's brake setup. User error is almost always the culprit with any brake setup; improper pad choice, improper bedding, improper torque on fasteners, improper prep of the rotors or drums. "Warped" rotors are almost never warped (how many of you actually test runnout with a precise gauge?), they just have pad material glazed into them due to sudden hard braking or using cheap pads.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 10:12 am to Jack Ruby
OEM rotors and upgraded pads with proper break in probably would have suited you just as well and possibly saved some money. Drilled and slotted rotors aren't necessary for a commuter vehicle. They look pretty cool though.
Posted on 6/13/17 at 11:06 am to Clames
I really don't care if they're actually warped or had localized buildup or whatever. "Warped" = pulsing pedal to me, like it does to everyone else. I'm not putting a dial indicator on my truck rotors. I changed them and it went away.
Having a problem at 27k miles is definitely screwed up. I'd be looking to warranty that even though it's probably a result of rotating tires with a bad arse impact wrench. I know some of the 1/2" ones can put out the equivalent of about 500 ft-lbs and most truck lugs call for 130-175 ft-lbs. Depending on how everything is made, overtorquing the lugs could pull the rotor enough to start causing a problem that eventually gets bad enough to notice.
Having a problem at 27k miles is definitely screwed up. I'd be looking to warranty that even though it's probably a result of rotating tires with a bad arse impact wrench. I know some of the 1/2" ones can put out the equivalent of about 500 ft-lbs and most truck lugs call for 130-175 ft-lbs. Depending on how everything is made, overtorquing the lugs could pull the rotor enough to start causing a problem that eventually gets bad enough to notice.
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