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Started By
Message
Chainsaw runing a little rough. I need some small engine repair advice.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:24 pm
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:24 pm
I have a Craftsman chainsaw that is 10 years old. It does a good job most of the time.
Recently it has been having troubles re-cranking.
I crank as per instructions
6 pumps on primer bulb
full choke 5 pulls
half choke pull until it cranks (2-3 pulls)and get to cutting.
When ever I kill it or it runs out of gas I have difficulties re-cranking afterwards.
Fill with fuel
no priming this time
full choke for 2-3 pulls until it attempts to crank
half choke it cranks immediately revs and dies in seconds. Faster than I can get my hand on the throttle trigger.
So I adjusted the idle speed screw slower as per manf. instructions and it seemed to help. But I still ran into the problem. I adjusted the idle speed screw slower and the problem would resolve for a bit. This repeated several times until I actually adjusted to idle speed screw too far and it came out. I replaced it, screwed down until tight and then backed it off 2 full turns. Got saw cranked and adjusted the idle screw as per manf instructions.
next day same issues all over again.
Concerned it was somehow flooding, I did a fuel line dump. I tilted chainsaw to the side, fish the fuel line filter stone out of the tank and press the prime bulb several times until the fuel line is clear. The carb has an overflow drain that allows the pressure from the primer bulb to push any fuel in the carb back into the tank.
put fuel line back in tank and close it up
no prime
full choke 5 pulls
half choke cranks on first pull and idles fine
off to cutting
The problem is it keeps occurring and will do so randomly. I can kill it and re-crank it fine a few times then it will simply not crank unless I repeat the fuel line dump procedure above.
Recently it has been having troubles re-cranking.
I crank as per instructions
6 pumps on primer bulb
full choke 5 pulls
half choke pull until it cranks (2-3 pulls)and get to cutting.
When ever I kill it or it runs out of gas I have difficulties re-cranking afterwards.
Fill with fuel
no priming this time
full choke for 2-3 pulls until it attempts to crank
half choke it cranks immediately revs and dies in seconds. Faster than I can get my hand on the throttle trigger.
So I adjusted the idle speed screw slower as per manf. instructions and it seemed to help. But I still ran into the problem. I adjusted the idle speed screw slower and the problem would resolve for a bit. This repeated several times until I actually adjusted to idle speed screw too far and it came out. I replaced it, screwed down until tight and then backed it off 2 full turns. Got saw cranked and adjusted the idle screw as per manf instructions.
next day same issues all over again.
Concerned it was somehow flooding, I did a fuel line dump. I tilted chainsaw to the side, fish the fuel line filter stone out of the tank and press the prime bulb several times until the fuel line is clear. The carb has an overflow drain that allows the pressure from the primer bulb to push any fuel in the carb back into the tank.
put fuel line back in tank and close it up
no prime
full choke 5 pulls
half choke cranks on first pull and idles fine
off to cutting
The problem is it keeps occurring and will do so randomly. I can kill it and re-crank it fine a few times then it will simply not crank unless I repeat the fuel line dump procedure above.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:30 pm to Bleeding purple
find non ethanol fuel and always use that.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:35 pm to auggie
quote:
find non ethanol fuel and always use that.
supposedly this saw is made to run on ethanol based too.
I prefer to use no ethanol but there is no one within 75 miles that I know of that has it.
so I use marine stabil as per instructions.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:36 pm to Bleeding purple
Not an expert but have been known to rebuild a two stroke carb or two. Whenever i had problems like you are having, I rebuild the carb. Ten years,its time. Filters also. My two cents.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:42 pm to Bleeding purple
I have a Pawnshop,I have about 25 chainsaws and other types of 2 cycle engines at all times,all pretty new. Sometimes this stuff sits on the shelf for 8 months at a time, I can tell you, if you use non-ethanol, it pays off, at least on the 2 cycle stuff, I put anything in my truck.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:48 pm to TIGER2
Yep, I'm thinking it is the carb. More specifically the high speed needle valve. Guess I should look at rebuilding it, or just buying a new carb.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 10:54 pm to Bleeding purple
Don't bother with no-e fuel or additives, 10 year old saw will need to have some real maintenance done. Carb rebuild kit might be in order but first check the impulse line if that saw has one. Smallest leak in that line will cause hard starting issues. Also do a simple compression test by seeing if the recoil cord will support the weight of the saw.
Posted on 3/15/15 at 11:03 pm to Clames
Snapped recoil spring last month and had to replace it. compression is good and saw does not bo under the heaviest of loads (full blade insertion into a red oak)
Replaced all fuel lines last fall when I discovered my lines had turned to mush (due to Efuel)
Thanks for the advice fellas.
Replaced all fuel lines last fall when I discovered my lines had turned to mush (due to Efuel)
Thanks for the advice fellas.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 12:15 am to Bleeding purple
You can probably buy a new carb for like $30 if you don't feel like cleaning the old one
Posted on 3/16/15 at 6:17 am to auggie
quote:
find non ethanol fuel and always use that
THIS!!! For all small engines.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 6:18 am to Bleeding purple
quote:
Yep, I'm thinking it is the carb. More specifically the high speed needle valve. Guess I should look at rebuilding it, or just buying a new carb.
This is what is needed to be done. The rubber gasket is getting hard that works as a check valve.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 7:38 am to Bleeding purple
quote:
no one within 75 miles has it
Buy premixed fuel. It's premixed with oil and it is stable. It's expensive compared to mixing it yourself, but it is worth it. I have run premix in my blower, weedeater and chainsaw for 4 years. They always crank.
Premix Fuel
Posted on 3/16/15 at 8:24 am to DownSouthDave
quote:My Stihl repair place highly recommended doing this. For as little as I use, this appears to be what I will be doing.
Buy premixed fuel.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 9:02 am to AlxTgr
Yeah, I've been happy with it. I only go through a couple gallons a year, do it's no big deal. I even let it sit in the motor in the offseason. No problems yet.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 9:24 am to AlxTgr
I'm abt to start buying that stuff too. I have heard and seen nothing but good things when using it.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 9:41 am to AlxTgr
I bet they did, good profit margin on that stuff.
Of course, proper maintenance and proper fuel mix and storage means almost nothing to people these days. Quality fuel and synthetic mix oil will have the proper stabilizers and a little Marine Sta-bil will take care of whatever ethanol is in there.
Of course, proper maintenance and proper fuel mix and storage means almost nothing to people these days. Quality fuel and synthetic mix oil will have the proper stabilizers and a little Marine Sta-bil will take care of whatever ethanol is in there.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 9:55 am to Clames
quote:
Of course, proper maintenance and proper fuel mix and storage means almost nothing to people these days.
Stihl motomix has a shelf life of 2 years, and it's mixed to the proper ratio. And it won't foul your carb after sitting up. Sure sounds like proper maintenance, fuel mix, and storage to me.
Posted on 3/16/15 at 10:04 am to DownSouthDave
Honestly, I mix everything 40:1 and have always done that. Some of my equipment is 15-20 years old also
Posted on 3/16/15 at 10:30 am to Clames
quote:He didn't even have any. He directed me to the closest store.
I bet they did, good profit margin on that stuff.
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