Started By
Message
locked post

Another F-250 Thread - Used 2003 King Ranch with 6.0L

Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:26 pm
Posted by lsufishnhunt
Member since Jun 2008
1026 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:26 pm
Ok guys... This has probably been discussed, but you can't have too many truck threads.

I am looking at buying a F250 Super Crew King Ranch 6.0L Diesel 4x4. From the guy: The truck is in immaculate shape and is loaded. Heated/Power Seats, 4 bucket seats, cruise, AC/Heat, 6 Disc changer, 142K miles. Asking $14,000. There have been zero mechanical issues with the truck.

From the little reading I've done it sounds like some people have had issues with it, but not everyone. Do any of you have any knowledge or first hand experience? I plan to get an oasis or carfax report for the truck.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 7:45 pm to
The people I know with 6.0s either had huge problems by 80k miles or didn't have a problem until 180k
Posted by rhodester
Mandeville, LA
Member since Dec 2007
1177 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:27 pm to
DO NOT BUY A 6.0! Especially an '03 (the first year they made them) like the last guy said, lots of problems with them. If you look hard enough you can find an 03' with the 7.3L and have much fewer issues with it in the long run. If you offered me a 6.0 with 30,000 miles and a 7.3 with 250,000 miles I'm taking the 7.3.
Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7398 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:50 pm to
What he said. The 7.3 is wayyy more reliable than the 6.0.
Posted by Nodust
Member since Aug 2010
22630 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:53 pm to
Offer him $7000, keep the rest to cover repairs
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43030 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:55 pm to
Gonna cost a pretty penny to make it reliable enough in the long run
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 8:56 pm to
If you're buying from a dealer, do what NoDust said. Bet he bites. They have a VERY hard time getting rid of those 6.0's and for good reason.

Once you fix the issues they are some bad bitches though. The problem with em is that they were made to have the dog shite ran out of them. They don't handle putting around in traffic well. They need to be wound up and literally have the soot blown out every now and then.
Posted by MoreOrLes
Member since Nov 2008
19472 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:00 pm to
I owned a 7.3 and it's a great motor.

I currently own a 6.0 Lariat. I have had no trouble BUT I am religious about oil changes and fuel filter changes. From all that i have read, and that's a lot, keeping everything clean is the key.

If you don't run a tuner, you don't need the head studs.

The problem with them is the coolant and the EGR. A coolant bypass filter is must. EGR delete also would be nice.
This post was edited on 11/18/12 at 9:03 pm
Posted by El Josey Wales
Greater Geismar
Member since Nov 2007
22710 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:01 pm to
quote:

They need to be wound up and literally have the soot blown out every now and then.


I hit 100 mph in my truck yesterday on the Mississippi back roads while passing a log truck. It feels good to turn them horses loose and blow some black smoke every once in a while.
Posted by Chris4x4gill2
North Alabama
Member since Nov 2008
3092 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:18 pm to
Go to powerstroke.org to learn everything about those trucks. With proper maintenance they are good trucks.
Posted by brass2mouth
NOLA
Member since Jul 2007
19666 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:20 pm to
quote:

6.0L


I wouldn't touch that with your 10ft pole.
Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt
Here
Member since Jan 2011
66763 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:29 pm to
One of the problem with the 6 leaker is the variable vane turbo. If you don't run the shite out of that motor and get the EGTs up high enough to cook the soot out of it, the vanes soot up and frick the turbo all up, leading you to a nice new turbo purchase.

The high pressure oil pump and EGR valve are really the only two things you need to look out for if you take care of them well.

ETA: The 6 liter was designed to be a hard-run engine. The people I know who've had good luck with them pull heavy and often with them.

The people who've had theirs in the shop more than on the road sat it in traffic a whole lot.
This post was edited on 11/18/12 at 9:34 pm
Posted by lsufishnhunt
Member since Jun 2008
1026 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:47 pm to
Sounds like I should probably stay away from it....

Thanks for the help guys
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43030 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 9:51 pm to
I had a buddy who went through 3-6.0 liters. He only used his truck to pull his 42ft Fountain though. Grenaded one in the mountains of North Carolina.

My buddy's dad chipped his and used it in New Orleans mainly. He did pull a big bass boat to TX every couple of months though. Had to end up getting a new motor after 60k

I take it as kinda like a crap shoot. Some blow motors, some don't. Big chance to take IMO
Posted by olgoi khorkhoi
priapism survivor
Member since May 2011
14815 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:10 pm to
takes $4k to bullet proof a 6.0 but then you're good to go.
Posted by Reubaltaich
A nation under duress
Member since Jun 2006
4959 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:16 pm to
Stay away from the 'early' 6.0L or as we call them 'sick-O.

Go with a 7.3L if all possible BUT they are hard to find.

If you do go with a 6.0L engine, buy as cheap as possible. You will have to spend about $5-6K just to get it back to good.

Usually you are going to have change out the FICM(Fuel Injection Control Module, about $550).
HOP(High Oil Pressure pump, about $600).
Fuel Injectors(8 injectors will run about $1800).

Go back with an oil cooler replace kit($300).

You may have to redo the head-gaskets, go with ARP stud kit(around $500),and go with back with OE headgaskets(about $175 per side), stay away from the after-market crap like Black Oynx(they are useless).

Plus go with a EGR delete kit(around $150).


BTW, get a good Ford DIESEL mechanic to do the work.

Stay away from the jake-leg mechanics who worked on a diesel 5 years ago. He will most likely screw-up your engine.
The diesels, after 2003, are a brand-new ball game
Posted by El Josey Wales
Greater Geismar
Member since Nov 2007
22710 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:20 pm to
Is all the things you just listed = bulletproofing?

I've heard that term used alot concerning these motors but never really looked into what it entails.
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43030 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:35 pm to
quote:

BTW, get a good Ford DIESEL mechanic to do the work.
That was a pretty well discussed topic last week
Posted by Reubaltaich
A nation under duress
Member since Jun 2006
4959 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:39 pm to
quote:

Is all the things you just listed = bulletproofing?

I've heard that term used alot concerning these motors but never really looked into what it entails.


The term is derived from the company 'bulletproof' that sells EGR kits and oil coolers.

Bullet proofing is somewhat of a 'slang' term to get your diesel back to good.

Bulletproof makes an improved version of the EGR system as opposed to an EGR 'delete kit'.
Posted by El Josey Wales
Greater Geismar
Member since Nov 2007
22710 posts
Posted on 11/18/12 at 10:41 pm to
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram