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2
Posted on 10/5/15 at 2:11 pm to Napoleon
I don't have much experience with older wiring at all. Some of it is surprisingly dependable still though.
Rewiring older houses is a pain with all those fire breaks and wood walls.. Man that's work
Rewiring older houses is a pain with all those fire breaks and wood walls.. Man that's work
Posted on 10/5/15 at 2:12 pm to Napoleon
isnt that the shite that is bare and runs around the attic??
Posted on 10/5/15 at 2:16 pm to CAD703X
quote:
i have swapped out about 30 light fixtures in the house and too many wall switches to count
I mean it's none of my business, but what the frick are you doing?
Posted on 10/5/15 at 2:19 pm to CAD703X
quote:
isnt that the shite that is bare and runs around the attic??
yes, though it was partially wrapped in cloth dyed white or black. The odd thing is the neutral runs independent all over the house and the common runs to the needed switches and outlets. It's the craziest thing.
If you look at it, it's almost better made, you have ceramic at every contact point.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 2:19 pm to TigerFanatic99
quote:
I mean it's none of my business, but what the frick are you doing?
bought a fixer-upper about 10 months ago and have been remodelling/updating the fixtures and installing smart-home switches, replaced a couple post lights and 3 new wall-post lights by the pool, replaced several broken external fixtures, installed a couple wifi thermostats, put a few lights on dimmers, added a motion-sensor to the garage lights because my kids keep forgetting to turn them out...etc.
This post was edited on 10/5/15 at 2:21 pm
Posted on 10/5/15 at 3:12 pm to CAD703X
I assume this is an older house? My house was built in 1961. The code then in my area was to have the hot line at the first fixture (light) then they would use a run of 12/2 with a bare ground as the switch circuit.
What I am saying is the hot is probably in the ceiling at one of the fixtures. Hot (black) line is attached to another line (black) that travels to the switch and the white line goes back to the fixture and is attached to the black FIXTURE wire. White FIXTURE wire is attached to the line that had the hot black.
We had this in our house, but due to the major remodeling we did after I bought it I had it completely rewired, so now all the circuits are made up in the switch box instead of the ceiling box.
I can sketch this if it is unclear.
What I am saying is the hot is probably in the ceiling at one of the fixtures. Hot (black) line is attached to another line (black) that travels to the switch and the white line goes back to the fixture and is attached to the black FIXTURE wire. White FIXTURE wire is attached to the line that had the hot black.
We had this in our house, but due to the major remodeling we did after I bought it I had it completely rewired, so now all the circuits are made up in the switch box instead of the ceiling box.
I can sketch this if it is unclear.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 3:15 pm to CAD703X
Plug them all up wherever you see fit, then put this ring on and plug it into the nearest outlet. it'll beep if it is all hooked up prperly.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 3:25 pm to alphaandomega
quote:
I assume this is an older house? My house was built in 1961. The code then in my area was to have the hot line at the first fixture (light) then they would use a run of 12/2 with a bare ground as the switch circuit. What I am saying is the hot is probably in the ceiling at one of the fixtures. Hot (black) line is attached to another line (black) that travels to the switch and the white line goes back to the fixture and is attached to the black FIXTURE wire. White FIXTURE wire is attached to the line that had the hot black. We had this in our house, but due to the major remodeling we did after I bought it I had it completely rewired, so now all the circuits are made up in the switch box instead of the ceiling box.
I thought about this, but if it was the case you'd have visible jumpers to the other switched items providing a hot, unless all 3 switched fixtures had their own "homerun" in the attic, which is highly unlikely. Possible still.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 5:55 am to Hardy_Har
Hardy and Napoleon.. Added 2 more pics of the box. Lots of stuff going on in here. Does this help?
Posted on 10/6/15 at 6:50 am to CAD703X
Give it a tongue test first.then turn the power off.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 8:58 am to CAD703X
Give me a few min. and I'll screenshot your pictures and explain what you need to do.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:14 am to CAD703X
The white wire going to the switch is the hot. You could replace that with a piece of black wire to keep it from throwing you off.
The two blacks are your switch legs, make a splice on those if your dimmer can't have two wires on the terminal.
If your dimmer needs a neutral, add a pigtail from the group of white wires in the back of the box. You could reuse the piece of white wire that's the hot if you replace it.
I didn't read thru the responses to see if you answered whether or not the floods are motion sensor or if your lamps are CFLs.
The two blacks are your switch legs, make a splice on those if your dimmer can't have two wires on the terminal.
If your dimmer needs a neutral, add a pigtail from the group of white wires in the back of the box. You could reuse the piece of white wire that's the hot if you replace it.
I didn't read thru the responses to see if you answered whether or not the floods are motion sensor or if your lamps are CFLs.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:15 am to stuckintexas
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:20 am to stuckintexas
quote:
The white wire going to the switch is the hot. You could replace that with a piece of black wire to keep it from throwing you off. The two blacks are your switch legs, make a splice on those if your dimmer can't have two wires on the terminal. If your dimmer needs a neutral, add a pigtail from the group of white wires in the back of the box. You could reuse the piece of white wire that's the hot if you replace it. I didn't read thru the responses to see if you answered whether or not the floods are motion sensor or if your lamps are CFLs.
Everything he said, except I'd put black tape stripe identifying the white wire hot. No sense in undoing a good joint.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:45 am to Hardy_Har
quote:
Everything he said, except I'd put black tape stripe identifying the white wire hot. No sense in undoing a good joint
thanks everyone! this is great.
yep i would have tried to plug that white in on the new switch as the neutral. i will do the black electrical tape trick on it and pigtail a new wire into the neutral cluster.
if you dont hear back from me......
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:49 am to stuckintexas
quote:
I didn't read thru the responses to see if you answered whether or not the floods are motion sensor or if your lamps are CFLs.
its a smart dimmer and no, not motion sensors but yes, cree LED floods will be what this controls.
it needs to be energized at all times because its a zwave switch that my smarthome controller communicate with.
Posted on 10/6/15 at 9:55 am to CAD703X
Good luck and be careful
Posted on 10/6/15 at 10:05 am to CAD703X
Is that a fricking bug in the 2nd pic?
Posted on 10/6/15 at 10:06 am to terd ferguson
I didn't even notice
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