- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Old Man Board... Woodworking question again...
Posted on 11/15/16 at 8:56 am
Posted on 11/15/16 at 8:56 am
Restain and refinishing a table that I did in high school shop. Probably 1989-1990.
My shop teacher is dead or I would call him actually. I do not remember what I did to the thing. Stained it? Or just finished it with an oil? I went for high degree of difficulty at the time. I parkay'd the top of the table. So I of course have grain direction issues to deal with.
My real problem is the stain (just plain minwax "cherrY") did not take? It looked good and even when applied. It apparently did not absorb. Some has dried with a wet look in patches. My hunch/thought is that I sanded the thing too well in 1989 and again this past week. It was "glass smooth". I tried to rough it up with 100 and the 220 grit paper prior to staining. I am now wiping off dry excess with a rag and or half assed wet sanding with 400 grit wet/dry paper just to take off excess.
I started that but then thought I should stop and refer to here and google.
I am enjoying this crap actually. It's cheaper and better for you than daytime drinking. And less frustrating than re-starting golf.
Any advice.
My shop teacher is dead or I would call him actually. I do not remember what I did to the thing. Stained it? Or just finished it with an oil? I went for high degree of difficulty at the time. I parkay'd the top of the table. So I of course have grain direction issues to deal with.
My real problem is the stain (just plain minwax "cherrY") did not take? It looked good and even when applied. It apparently did not absorb. Some has dried with a wet look in patches. My hunch/thought is that I sanded the thing too well in 1989 and again this past week. It was "glass smooth". I tried to rough it up with 100 and the 220 grit paper prior to staining. I am now wiping off dry excess with a rag and or half assed wet sanding with 400 grit wet/dry paper just to take off excess.
I started that but then thought I should stop and refer to here and google.
I am enjoying this crap actually. It's cheaper and better for you than daytime drinking. And less frustrating than re-starting golf.
Any advice.
8
Posted on 11/15/16 at 8:58 am to LSU alum wannabe
Not trying to be a smartarse, but I would probably take this to the outdoor board. There are some really good craftsmen that regular that board without sifting through some of the BS you'll get on here.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:03 am to LSU alum wannabe
You closed up the grain. There is nothing porous left for the stain to sink into.
what kind of wood?
what kind of wood?
This post was edited on 11/15/16 at 9:04 am
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:13 am to Nado Jenkins83
quote:
what kind of wood?
1989 man.
Too many years. I have no idea and my teacher died many moons ago. Maybe a type of oak? Has an oak look. Too nice for pine.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:16 am to LSU alum wannabe
Used too fine of paper. Like the man before me you closed up grain. I never go finer then 100 on stain grade and 120 on paint grade. I have a wide belt sander I can pass it through for you depending on the size. Let me know if I can help
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:36 am to Hunter82378
So it has one "coat" of stain on it. Just use a coarse paper before applying second coat? Instead of the usual fine grit between coats of stain or finish?
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:37 am to LSU alum wannabe
Pics would help
Posted on 11/15/16 at 9:42 am to LSU alum wannabe
If I didn't know better I'd say you sir have closed up the grain.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 10:06 am to Nado Jenkins83
quote:
You closed up the grain. There is nothing porous left for the stain to sink into.
This right here. You may have used a sealer and not remember doing so.
All you can do is sand it, and put a drop of oil or stain in a spot and see what happens. If it doesn't absorb right away, more sanding is needed.
Not difficult to fix. It's just going to take a lot of your time.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 10:36 am to LSU alum wannabe
you could always apply striper and then sand.
Also use a wood conditioner before you apply the stain.
Also use a wood conditioner before you apply the stain.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 10:44 am to LSU alum wannabe
Can you post some pics?
Did you try to re stain it before you sanded it?
Do you recall apply any polyurethane to it back in 89?
Did you try to re stain it before you sanded it?
Do you recall apply any polyurethane to it back in 89?
Posted on 11/15/16 at 10:45 am to Hunter82378
quote:
I have a wide belt sander
I'm envious!
Posted on 11/15/16 at 10:57 am to LSU alum wannabe
blotchy stain is often caused by stain being absorbed into soft grain more than in hard grain. When sanded clean and ready for stain, coat it with pre-stain or wood conditioner. this soaks into the soft grain and seals it. this inhibits the grain from absorbing stain as much, making it look similar to the hard grain.
Posted on 11/15/16 at 11:08 am to LSU alum wannabe
Agree with what others have said about sanding grit. Sand it back down to bare wood (can use coarse paper grit for this) then sand to 100 or 120 before applying stain.
You should make some effort to identify the wood. If it is pine for instance, you will need a wood conditioner to get it to stain without splotching. If it is oak, oak takes stain very well so you do not need a wood conditioner.
If it has large pores, you may want to fill them before staining if you want a smooth or mirror finish.
You should make some effort to identify the wood. If it is pine for instance, you will need a wood conditioner to get it to stain without splotching. If it is oak, oak takes stain very well so you do not need a wood conditioner.
If it has large pores, you may want to fill them before staining if you want a smooth or mirror finish.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News