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Message
re: Foam Insulation Cost
Posted on 5/28/15 at 8:50 pm to Lee Chatelain
Posted on 5/28/15 at 8:50 pm to Lee Chatelain
My house is an ice chest. 6" foam on roof, walls are Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs). Ventilation is system required to bring in fresh air.
Amazing how cool it stays inside during the summer. My previous house was like a damn oven when you got home from work.
Amazing how cool it stays inside during the summer. My previous house was like a damn oven when you got home from work.
2
Posted on 5/28/15 at 9:28 pm to BoostAddict
When I built a few years ago I had rock wool sprayed in wall voids before drywall went up and in attic over ceilings. Since my house is elevated 10 feet off the ground, I had the entire underside done with foam. I have a gabled metal roof with good ventilation so my attic stays pretty cool even in summer. The foam on the bottom keeps my floors warm and the whole house stays pretty cool even with the A/C off in the summer. Personally, I wish I had went with foam everywhere. I think it's worth the money in the long run.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 9:30 pm to HoustonGumbeauxGuy
quote:
Glad to see this topic, actually. This past weekend my folks had a radiant barrier sprayed in their attic and got additional foam insulation sprayed in as well...with a promise from the AC repair company that their electricity bill would be reduced by 25% on average.
quote:
Did they get hosed, or is this "energy efficient" home concept really the new thing I just need to understand better?
Yes and no. Foam offers a significant advantage, but radiant barrier does nothing with foam. Sorry...
I have open cell on the roof deck/rafters and closed cell in my walls. Just moved in, so I'll report back when I get my first electric bill.
Posted on 5/28/15 at 9:49 pm to mpar98
quote:
mpar98
What kind of equipment did you use
Posted on 5/28/15 at 11:07 pm to Lee Chatelain
For me it coast 11k to have it done on a 3100 living home and 3 car garage. Had 6" on rafters, outside walls, garage, all walks in matter bedroom and underside of the bonus above the garage done. Alg
so put in insulated garage doors.
We keep it 61 at night, 68 during the day (i know that's cold) and bill is around 200 every month. Attic stays within 5 degrees of inside, garage within 10. It's awesome.
Neighbor has the same size house without it and his bill is around 320 a month. So savings is prolly close to 100 a month on electrical but you also get to reduce the size of the ac unit and get a higher sear which also helps. This time i also got some tax credit that isn't around anymore.
Overall it's one of the best decisions i mage while building and i will do it again on my next house.
so put in insulated garage doors.
We keep it 61 at night, 68 during the day (i know that's cold) and bill is around 200 every month. Attic stays within 5 degrees of inside, garage within 10. It's awesome.
Neighbor has the same size house without it and his bill is around 320 a month. So savings is prolly close to 100 a month on electrical but you also get to reduce the size of the ac unit and get a higher sear which also helps. This time i also got some tax credit that isn't around anymore.
Overall it's one of the best decisions i mage while building and i will do it again on my next house.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 7:24 am to lsu777
That seems like a pretty good price for that size of a home. I am going to start getting a few bids on my 2700 sq foot home soon.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 7:39 am to VetteGuy
Vetteguy, those numbers don't sound accurate. The spray foam doesn't sound way off, but base insulation will never be 12k. For instance, I spray foamed my home for 11K versus batt insulation at 3500. When getting quotes, an average 2200 sqft living house can be done in base insulation for about 2k dollars.
I have a story and a half home. The attic has 1300 sqft of living in it. In that application, I recommend foam bc the second story will never cool correctly. On one story standard houses, this is a tough decision bc you can't see the extra money. The extra 6k on a single story house could go in bathrooms and kitchens. Foam is about 4x more expensive.
I have a story and a half home. The attic has 1300 sqft of living in it. In that application, I recommend foam bc the second story will never cool correctly. On one story standard houses, this is a tough decision bc you can't see the extra money. The extra 6k on a single story house could go in bathrooms and kitchens. Foam is about 4x more expensive.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 7:49 am to Lee Chatelain
I've heard good things about foam. I know a handful of people who have done it and they all seemed to be very happy with it. This was within 6 months of them getting it done, so I don't know the long term satisfaction. As someone mentioned, has to be aware of trapped humidity but I think if done the right way or the right type, not a major issue.
One of the guys who had foam done to and existing home had a study done on his home where they see where you are losing A/C-Heating through gaps through out the house and how much heat comes in from the windows and stuff like that. He said it was eye opening, I'd love to do that but I'm afraid of what I will find or already know.
One of the guys who had foam done to and existing home had a study done on his home where they see where you are losing A/C-Heating through gaps through out the house and how much heat comes in from the windows and stuff like that. He said it was eye opening, I'd love to do that but I'm afraid of what I will find or already know.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 7:55 am to Libertariantiger
quote:
The spray foam doesn't sound way off, but base insulation will never be 12k. For instance, I spray foamed my home for 11K versus batt insulation at 3500
I might be mis-remembering, but doing batts was expensive given that I had 7000 under beam and a separate 3000 garage with a 16' interior height.
I was going to do batts in the detached garage, but the foam guys actually gave me a break to go ahead and foam since they were already on location.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 2:54 pm to VetteGuy
I did some more research about foam and most sites say it doesn't do as good of a job at sound suppression versus rock wool of cellulose. I have no first hand experience but just stating what I have read most places.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 2:56 pm to TigerDeBaiter
quote:
I have open cell on the roof deck/rafters and closed cell in my walls.
Your installer knew what he was doing.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 2:59 pm to stout
pretty sure you dont' really want to go spray your attic in foam when its already constructed and designed. Can run into humidity/moisture issues quick.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:00 pm to stout
Care to go into more detail Stout? I am in the process of getting quotes on my home.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:04 pm to Lee Chatelain
quote:
How much would installation be on an existing 2,100 sq ft. house.
If you have cellulose or blown in fiberglass already, I would just look into adding a few more inches to it as it settles over time and then I would add radiant barrier to the rafters and the backside of the decking.
Foam is really most beneficial when you can do the whole house in it and form an "envelope" IMO.
The radiant barrier will keep heat out of your attic so the A/C doesn't work as hard and you don't have a pocket of hot air sitting on top of your house. The added cellulose or fiber will just increase your R-value which is always a good thing.
If you have batting then still do all of the above. Add cellulose on top of the batting.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:06 pm to daviddsims
quote:
Care to go into more detail Stout? I am in the process of getting quotes on my home.
Don't use closed cell on the decking. If you have a leak it could be years before you know about it and by that time half your roof could be rotten. There are actually tons of lawsuits over this issue.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:07 pm to stout
Wouldn't adding radiant barrier to the backside of the decking in the existing attic present a similar issue if you have an attic leak and trying to locate source etc?
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:10 pm to stout
So closed in the walls and open in the attic?
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:11 pm to Chad504boy
quote:
Wouldn't adding radiant barrier to the backside of the decking in the existing attic present a similar issue if you have an attic leak and trying to locate source etc?
No. Radiant barrier comes in a roll and when you install it there will be seams in it. The water will come out somewhere and you will still be able to notice it.
With closed cell foam the water has nowhere to go but to continue to run down the foam until it reaches the soffit or another exterior exit point which you may never notice. This is why a small leak with foam can rot a whole roof.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:12 pm to daviddsims
quote:
So closed in the walls and open in the attic?
Yes. Closed cell has a slightly higher R-value so use it in your walls.
Posted on 5/29/15 at 3:14 pm to stout
quote:
Radiant barrier comes in a roll and when you install it there will be seams in it.
i have a huge hot arse attic. Is radiant barrier worth spending the cheese on?
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