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Started By
Message
220 vs 110 V window unit
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:04 pm
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:04 pm
Looking for a couple of window units (trashy, I know) for the camp. For the same BTU rating the 220 units cost about 60% more. Which is best?
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:05 pm to pensacola
Depends on the size of the room...
What BTU rating are you looking at...?
What BTU rating are you looking at...?
This post was edited on 1/19/17 at 5:07 pm
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:06 pm to pensacola
PTACs are the bomb over window units.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:06 pm to pensacola
for short term use 110 is fine, it draws more amperage than the 220, so the 220 is usually more efficient with the same btu rating.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:08 pm to Napoleon
Does more efficient mean less costly to operate?
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:15 pm to Hangover Haven
About 9-12 K BTU each.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:17 pm to pensacola
I'm looking to buy a LG 15000 btu 110v for $400+tax from HD.
Or refubrished for 330 off ebay free shipping. Most likely going to buy new.
Or refubrished for 330 off ebay free shipping. Most likely going to buy new.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:20 pm to pensacola
110v will draw double the amps of a similar BTU unit over a 220v unit
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:25 pm to pensacola
Is the camp well insulated?
Smaller rooms will stay cooler so the compressor wont kick in as often, so 110 units should be fine...
Smaller rooms will stay cooler so the compressor wont kick in as often, so 110 units should be fine...
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:38 pm to pensacola
If you want one that heats, get the 220v. It's something about the heat pump freezing and needing to defrost while still operationg. Or so I was told.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:39 pm to pensacola
Check that outlet for 220 availability unless you want to do some electrical work.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:40 pm to pensacola
I prefer the 221 model. But, whatever it takes.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 5:52 pm to High C
well, if it's at a camp.....
And it's only a 15-20 amp 220.
You could 9not recommending, just saying) run one leg on the black wire, one leg on the neutral wire, run with neutral on the bare wire and add in an earth ground. The neutral and the ground are in continuity with each other. It's just this isn't "correct" but It really isn't unsafe either.
Rather than run a new wire and all.. It's actually going to draw less amps over the wires than the 115 would.
(though this ONLY works if that circuit is only being used to power the window unit, unless on everything else you cap the white, run black as normal and hook the bare to the neutral side of the other outlets)
And it's only a 15-20 amp 220.
You could 9not recommending, just saying) run one leg on the black wire, one leg on the neutral wire, run with neutral on the bare wire and add in an earth ground. The neutral and the ground are in continuity with each other. It's just this isn't "correct" but It really isn't unsafe either.
Rather than run a new wire and all.. It's actually going to draw less amps over the wires than the 115 would.
(though this ONLY works if that circuit is only being used to power the window unit, unless on everything else you cap the white, run black as normal and hook the bare to the neutral side of the other outlets)
This post was edited on 1/19/17 at 5:54 pm
Posted on 1/19/17 at 6:09 pm to pensacola
Just get a 110 for each room. I have a 8,000 and it cools 800 square foot with no problem. Get a few fans too.
Posted on 1/19/17 at 6:45 pm to muttenstein
How about I take a little off that mustache, Ron?
Posted on 1/19/17 at 7:09 pm to pensacola
I have two you can have both - 220- 110 still working
Posted on 1/19/17 at 8:01 pm to CHEDBALLZ
quote:
Just get a 110 for each room. I have a 8,000 and it cools 800 square foot with no problem. Get a few fans too.
You must have no windows and it's very well insulated for 2/3s of a ton to cool 800 square feet.
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