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Buying a new truck, trade-in and financing question
Posted on 10/4/15 at 8:42 am
Posted on 10/4/15 at 8:42 am
The dealership said that I'll miss out on about an $800 credit if I sell my car myself, is there some type of trade in credit I don't know about??
Also, when looking at financing options, would I typically get the best rate from my bank or the dealership finance people?
Also, when looking at financing options, would I typically get the best rate from my bank or the dealership finance people?
Posted on 10/4/15 at 8:44 am to chickman1313
Taxes. When you trade in a car, that trade is value is taken off the purchase price.
Example:
$30,000 new car
$7,000 trade in for old car
You pay taxes on $23,000 instead of $30,000.
You also probably have to pay taxes on a private sale as well when you do not with a trade (not sure about that though as I have never sold a car though; only traded them in)
Example:
$30,000 new car
$7,000 trade in for old car
You pay taxes on $23,000 instead of $30,000.
You also probably have to pay taxes on a private sale as well when you do not with a trade (not sure about that though as I have never sold a car though; only traded them in)
Posted on 10/4/15 at 9:20 am to chickman1313
quote:
lso, when looking at financing options, would I typically get the best rate from my bank or the dealership finance people?
Go in pre-approved regardless. Make them beat it, and don't let them pull any interest rate bullshite like tying a good rate in only if you buy a warranty or whatnot.
I learned this the hard way.
Posted on 10/4/15 at 4:15 pm to rintintin
Trade-in credit is what they were talking about. I would not get pre-approved, if you know where your credit is, they you can go to a few sites (like neighbors FCU, your bank, etc) and they will have it online on what their rates are for the term & amount your attempting to finance. I would just go to dealer with "have approval with X bank and they are giving me Y rate, so if you can not beat it, then let's just work on numbers". 95% of my customers at my dealership get their rates beat by one of our lenders (navy federal or usaa are the only ones that give insane approvals & rates on customers that have weak to limited credit customers)
Posted on 10/4/15 at 7:15 pm to CoachRobertson
Im not disagreeing with what you said, but I would still suggest that the customer get preapproval.
I know many car salesmen that can convince a customer that what they read online was wrong or not applicable.
I know many car salesmen that can convince a customer that what they read online was wrong or not applicable.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 8:52 am to rintintin
quote:
Go in pre-approved regardless. Make them beat it, and don't let them pull any interest rate bullshite like tying a good rate in only if you buy a warranty or whatnot.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 10:31 am to Coach Guidry
quote:
You alright, Coach?
Posted on 10/5/15 at 10:42 am to Coach Guidry
Coach is well aware of my experience, and might I say he "coached" me through it.
BTW I got $250 from those assholes. "Hush" money if you will.
BTW I got $250 from those assholes. "Hush" money if you will.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 10:50 am to chickman1313
quote:
The dealership said that I'll miss out on about an $800 credit if I sell my car myself, is there some type of trade in credit I don't know about??
Some things to consider:
Could you sell your car for $800 more (net of whatever taxes you'd pay) than they're offering on the trade in? What's the cash price on the new car vs. the price with you trading something in? They're not anxious for you to take that credit simply to put a "free" $800 in your pocket. That, I'm fairly certain of.
quote:
Also, when looking at financing options, would I typically get the best rate from my bank or the dealership finance people?
Whether it's a car or a house, ALWAYS shop rates to get yourself the best deal. There might be a credit union with a better financing option or there might be a better option available from the dealer/manufacturer.
Posted on 10/5/15 at 10:51 am to rintintin
quote:
Go in pre-approved regardless. Make them beat it, and don't let them pull any interest rate bullshite like tying a good rate in only if you buy a warranty or whatnot.
Also get all the terms from them before going to finalize. I recently bought a car and they matched the interest rate I was getting from my credit union, but when I went to the finance office to sign everything, their terms were for 36 months, while my credit union's was 60 months. It made a huge difference in payment. We were able to work it out, but it added an hour to the process, but it pissed me off enough that I re-financed at the credit union a week later.
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