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re: Your Favorite Oyster Soup, Stew, Bisque...Recipes

Posted on 2/11/16 at 10:35 pm to
Posted by Teach1718
Brooklyn, NY
Member since Feb 2016
45 posts
Posted on 2/11/16 at 10:35 pm to
The subject line was easy click-bait for me to begin with - was thinking I might see some SELA-centric takes on the style and had to laugh when I saw the GCOB recipe as the first response.

It is a pretty damn good version BTW. I'm usually more partial to the pan roast (which adds a dollop of Heinz chili sauce and celery salt to the mix) or the NE clam chowder but there is something to be said about the straightforward clean simplicity of the simple oyster stew.

The restaurant itself is classic old NY. I almost always sit at the long marble counter. On the rare slower days it's enough to sit back in the too cramped swivel chairs and take in the buzz of the station under the high vaulted ceilings. It's not unusual for conversations to strike up between strangers at the counter - to my left today a young couple from Sweden were discussing the US presidential race with an aged WASP from Chappequa, NY (the town where the Clinton's settled after Bill's second term). The exchange was entertainment gold.

Worth a stop if you are ever through town.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/11/16 at 10:57 pm to
What a treat!
Posted by Teach1718
Brooklyn, NY
Member since Feb 2016
45 posts
Posted on 2/11/16 at 11:33 pm to
I've served this version from Daniel Gritzer of Serious Eats a few times. It's good stuff - just be careful to keep the pot below the boil and cook the oysters only until their edges just begin to curl.

Oyster Stew with Fennel

INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons unsalted butter(42 grams)
2 medium shallots, finely diced (about 50 grams)
1/2 medium head fennel, finely diced (about 50 grams)
1 large stalk celery, finely diced (about 50 grams)
2 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 10 grams)
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 quart(950 milliliters) whole milk
2 dozen oysters, shucked, liquor reserved (about 1 1/2 cups; 350 grams)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Minced parsley, chives, tarragon, and/or fennel fronds, for garnish

DIRECTIONS
1. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add shallots, fennel, celery, and garlic
and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add thyme.
2. Add milk and bring to a bare simmer. Add oysters and their liquor and return to a bare simmer; adjust heat as necessary to prevent boiling. Simmer until oysters are just cooked. Serve immediately.
This post was edited on 2/11/16 at 11:36 pm
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/11/16 at 11:42 pm to
Thanks. That's exactly the one I linked earlier and am considering. Not sure I'm using fennel, but if not, I'll use Pernod. Did you use the fennel? Any changes?

Also, I was thinking of doing everything up to adding the oysters the night before and reheating gently, then adding the oysters just before serving.
This post was edited on 2/11/16 at 11:46 pm
Posted by Teach1718
Brooklyn, NY
Member since Feb 2016
45 posts
Posted on 2/12/16 at 7:01 am to
I made one version that added a bit of Herbsaint in addition to the fennel, adding it just before the milk. It did nothing to elevate the dish. Mind you it wasn't bad - just that I preferred the straight fennel version better. I've not done a version only using Pernod - but for my taste the anise liquors work better as a boost/flavoring in tomato based shellfish soups vs dairy. For what it's worth I find Pernod is a touch sweeter than Herbsaint but not so much that I think it would skew the flavor by much.

I don't see any issue with making the base the night before - that said, I'm not sure how much time you'll be saving yourself over just making it fresh the same day - you might shave 10 minutes off the process (and you'll still need to be close by to make sure you don't boil the base).

In any event, it's been a (small) crowd pleaser in my house and I can solidly recommend giving it a go.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/12/16 at 8:02 am to
I'm not doing it as a timesaver. I like seasonings to blend overnight though it's probably not necessary with this soup.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 10:30 am to
I made the oyster stew with fennel. I sauteed everything the night before and added the milk but didn't heat it until the following day just before adding the oysters and liquor. Garnished with fennel fronds, thinly sliced green onions and fresh chopped parsley. With all the flavors, I expected it to be really good, but we all found it to be pretty bland. For whatever reason, the flavors just didn't come through. I added a little Herbsaint before the oysters to try to flavor it more. Most of the oysters were huge, but not terribly briny. Had to add salt a few times to try and bring out the flavors. I used some white pepper in it, as well. We liked that it wasn't a heavy thick stew. Just needed more flavor.
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50063 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 10:44 am to
I bet it needed a shot of red pepper....and I personally detest white pepper. I replace it with black, red or both...every time.
Posted by BRgetthenet
Member since Oct 2011
117664 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 10:50 am to
This thread has turned to gold.
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50063 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 10:57 am to
Emeril's recipe is old school good...but I do prefer using half and half cream and milk.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 11:11 am to
quote:

I bet it needed a shot of red pepper....and I personally detest white pepper. I replace it with black, red or both...every time.




I love white pepper. A shot of red would have been fine with me, but I had some pepper sensitive palates in the mix. Pepper wasn't the reason it tasted like oysters in milk. I used more of the fennel, celery, shallots and fresh thyme than it called for because I had extra. Didn't do the trick. Probably should have used bay leaves, Otis.
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50063 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 11:13 am to
quote:

Probably should have used bay leaves, Otis.


I have a standing offer to provide seasoning advice, free of charge, for all who need it...whether they recognize their plight or not...
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 11:23 am to
Thanks, Jacques. Julia likes white pepper, too, though.
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50063 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 11:31 am to
Yep...the offer is open.
Posted by Teach1718
Brooklyn, NY
Member since Feb 2016
45 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 2:46 pm to
Sorry to hear it didn't work to your liking, my house has enjoyed it enough to not protest my working through versions in a fairly short time frame.

This is a dish where I'd say the biggest flavor contributor is from the oysters themselves and everything else is the subtle supporting background.

I've been using mostly Wellfleets but one batch made with Montauk Pearls was probably the best. Both of these areas produce very briny/high saline oysters and that oceanic tang became the big base note in the stew.
This post was edited on 2/15/16 at 2:54 pm
Posted by OTIS2
NoLA
Member since Jul 2008
50063 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 3:02 pm to
quote:

Wellfleets
quote:

Montauk Pearls
I've had good Wellfleets.
Posted by little billy
Orange County, CA
Member since May 2015
8317 posts
Posted on 2/15/16 at 3:13 pm to
I had some oysters from New York recently called fat babies. Very salty and delicious.
This post was edited on 2/15/16 at 3:14 pm
Posted by Darla Hood
Near that place by that other place
Member since Aug 2012
13847 posts
Posted on 2/18/16 at 3:06 pm to
I understand your hesitation in adding the oysters too soon, but I think adding the oyster liquor would've helped the depth of flavor develop. (Not that I've ever made this recipe, just thinking of oyster liquor in seafood gumbo.)

I had plans to make seafood gumbo, but I've got a cough and chills. Thinking I might use the oysters (from a tub, not fresh) in a cream based soup. Or I might go to bed.
Posted by Gris Gris
OTIS!NO RULES FOR SAUCES ON STEAK!!
Member since Feb 2008
47329 posts
Posted on 2/18/16 at 3:22 pm to
I tasted the soup a few days later and the flavors had really developed. I should have put it together with the liquor sans the oysters a day or so before serving. Would have been terrific. That's what my gut told me to do, but I didn't do it.

Hope you feel better, Darla.
Posted by Teach1718
Brooklyn, NY
Member since Feb 2016
45 posts
Posted on 2/18/16 at 5:27 pm to
Interesting.

One of the tips I follow for making clam chowder is to let the chowder age for a few hours before gently reheating. Same holds for lobster (but not fish) stew. My guide here is John Thorne's writings which provided a serious upgrade to my chowder game.

Haven't done that with the oyster stew...might have to do one more round while the chill is still in the air.

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