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Posted on 9/19/16 at 3:54 pm to BugAC
quote:
Not sure if you saw the latest BYO article but it has a good article on NE IPA. Had some stuff i never thought of before. Like how hop pellets are like little O2 sponges, so adding them during fermentation will reduce O2 exposure. Also talked about water makeup which i need some explanation on.
I think Dave Green wrote that article. He is BYOs go to person for all things NE and hoppy.
He wrote about the o2 pick up from dry hopping a couple years ago in his Advanced Dry Hopping article. This was one of the articles that convinced me to start using O2 free transfers from fermenter to keg.
HERE
Dave's a really nice guy, if there is anything you needed clarification on you he responds fairly quickly to emails.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 3:56 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 3:56 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
He wrote about the o2 pick up from dry hopping a couple years ago in his Advanced Dry Hopping article. This was one of the articles that convinced me to start using O2 free transfers from fermenter to keg.
The sterile siphon starter is o2 free correct? As long as you purge your keg?
Another question, has anyone figured out the correlation of hop quantity in the whirlpool/hop stand? I've been using 4-5 oz., but wondering if i'm truly getting anything out of that many hops or if i should up the amount. I'm aware of the temp correlation during this phase just can't decide how many oz. to use.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 3:58 pm to BugAC
quote:
Also talked about water makeup which i need some explanation on.
I read that article also and found the water section to be interesting. IIRC, the author was suggesting that the sulfate to chloride ratio didn't play a huge factor and suggested using a 1:1 ratio.
In most of what I have read, they say that you want your water to be balanced to the chloride in a NE IPA because to don't want the sharp hop bitterness that high sulfates gives you in a West Coast IPA.
I plan to brew a NE IPA this Sunday, but I haven't yet decided on what to do with the water. I am leaning toward going with 75:100 sulfate to chloride ratio.
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:02 pm to Bleed P&G
quote:
I plan to brew a NE IPA this Sunday, but I haven't yet decided on what to do with the water. I am leaning toward going with 75:100 sulfate to chloride ratio.
Well I plan to do the 100:100 ratio he was talking about, i just don't know what that means, in terms of what to add. Such as, what does that convert to in terms of grams of gypsum, cacl, etc...
ETA: I just saw the water profile tool on the beersmith has been updated so i can play with that.
another ETA: nevermind, don't really understand how to get to a desired sulfate/chloride level.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 4:06 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:10 pm to BugAC
quote:
don't really understand how to get to a desired sulfate/chloride level.
I think he also mentions keeping bicarbonates below 50ppm. Baton Rouge water starts off at 145ppm.
Use RO water so you start at 0 and then EZ water calculator to add Gypsum and CaCl until both hit 100ppm.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 4:12 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:31 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
Use RO water so you start at 0 and then EZ water calculator to add Gypsum and CaCl until both hit 100ppm.
I don't like using RO or distilled. I've had issues both times. Last IPA i made something happened and the only difference in my brewing was using distilled water instead of treating BR water. The color of the beer was way darker than it was supposed to be and was much maltier too.
It's possible maybe the grains were mixed up that i got from the shop, but i've never had problems with them.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 4:32 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:35 pm to BugAC
You either need to know your local water profile or use 100% RO water and build up from there. Lets say that you are treating 10 gallons of RO water, adding 7 grams of gypsum and 8 grams of CaCl, will give you the 100:100 ratio. The only problem here is that the calcium would also be at 100 ppm, which is at the upper end of the desired range.
Alternatively, adding 3 grams of gypsum, 8 grams of CaCl, and 5.5 grams of epsom salt in 10 gallons of RO water will give you 75 ppm of calcium and also hit the 100:100 ratio. After working through this, I think I might just go with these salt additions and use 100% RO water when I brew this weekend.
Alternatively, adding 3 grams of gypsum, 8 grams of CaCl, and 5.5 grams of epsom salt in 10 gallons of RO water will give you 75 ppm of calcium and also hit the 100:100 ratio. After working through this, I think I might just go with these salt additions and use 100% RO water when I brew this weekend.
This post was edited on 9/19/16 at 5:04 pm
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:39 pm to LSUGrad00
quote:
Baton Rouge water starts off at 145ppm.
For anyone interested, New Orleans water is currently at:
Calcium 36 ppm
Magnesium 14 ppm
Sodium 55 ppm
Sulfate 40 ppm
Chloride 55 ppm
Bicarbonate 175 ppm
pH 8.7
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:39 pm to Bleed P&G
quote:
You either need to know your local water profile or use 100% RO water and build up from there.
I do. I have a water report. Not sure how old it is though.
Posted on 9/19/16 at 4:54 pm to BugAC
If BR water is at 145 ppm of bicarbonate like LSUGrad00 says, then you should dilute at a 2:1 ratio of RO to tap water to get the bicarbonate levels to under 50 ppm. You would also divide the minerals and ions from your water report by 3. From there, just know that 1 gram of CaCl in 1 gallon of water adds 72 ppm of calcium and 127 ppm of chloride. Adding 1 gram of gypsum to 1 gallon of water adds 61 ppm of calcium and 147 ppm of sulfate. Just do the math based on how much water you are treating.
Posted on 9/19/16 at 6:45 pm to Bleed P&G
quote:
For anyone interested, New Orleans water is currently at:
Just received my report for River Ridge this evening.
pH 7.8
Sodium, Na 21
Potassium, K 3
Calcium, Ca 44
Magnesium, Mg 12
Total Hardness, CaCO3 160
Nitrate, NO3-N 1.3 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4 48 (converted from SO4-S)
Chloride, Cl 32
Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 153
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 126
Frat, if you want this for the brasseurs site I can email you a pdf. You guys seem to have the best collection of reports for South Louisiana.
Posted on 9/19/16 at 6:49 pm to LSUGrad00
I've often wondered what my post RO filter water looked like. Not bad for a 3 year old cheap RO filter.
pH 6.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 7
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.01
Sodium, Na 1
Potassium, K < 1
Calcium, Ca 1
Magnesium, Mg < 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3 3
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S < 1
Chloride, Cl 1
Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 2
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 2
pH 6.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 7
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.01
Sodium, Na 1
Potassium, K < 1
Calcium, Ca 1
Magnesium, Mg < 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3 3
Nitrate, NO3-N < 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S < 1
Chloride, Cl 1
Carbonate, CO3 < 1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 2
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 2
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:45 pm to LSUGrad00
Looking to make a blood orange hefeweizen this weekend. When is the best time to add the orange juice and zest? I was thinking of putting the juice and zest in the primary fermentation.
Should I avoid all this and use an extract? I had a bad experience using fresh pineapple. I'm doing an extract 5 gallon batch if that helps.
Should I avoid all this and use an extract? I had a bad experience using fresh pineapple. I'm doing an extract 5 gallon batch if that helps.
Posted on 9/19/16 at 9:00 pm to Chatagnier
I like using zest in the boil and fruit in the primary or keg after ferm subsides
Posted on 9/19/16 at 10:48 pm to Chatagnier
quote:
When is the best time to add the orange juice and zest? I was thinking of putting the juice and zest in the primary fermentation.
I prefer to add zest post fermentation. The couple times I've used it in the boil I had a ton of great aromatics going into the fermenter only to lose most/all during fermentation.
These days I make a tincture with the zest and vodka and then add that to taste at kegging. I feel like this gives me the most control over the flavor.
Posted on 9/20/16 at 11:27 am to LSUGrad00
Another thing in the new BYO article are clone recipe for Tree House, Trillium, Focal Banger, and one other of the hazy IPA's.
Also, for those still doing research, here's a nice article from Scott Janish (i haven't read it yet).
Mouthfeel Softness
Also, for those still doing research, here's a nice article from Scott Janish (i haven't read it yet).
Mouthfeel Softness
Posted on 9/20/16 at 3:22 pm to BugAC
quote:
The sterile siphon starter is o2 free correct? As long as you purge your keg?
I don't see a response to this, so figured I would answer. It is not o2 free as it is just pulling air in through a filter. You would need to hook up a co2 tank to have a o2 free transfer.
Posted on 9/20/16 at 3:26 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
I don't see a response to this, so figured I would answer. It is not o2 free as it is just pulling air in through a filter. You would need to hook up a co2 tank to have a o2 free transfer.
I thought it was pulling in CO2 from your breath?
Posted on 9/20/16 at 3:32 pm to BugAC
quote:
I thought it was pulling in CO2 from your breath?
I mean you do to start it, but you don't blow the entire time.
As the beer leaves the carboy the space if filled with air through the filter.
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