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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:09 am to s14suspense
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:09 am to s14suspense
I kegged mine last night. It should be a fun event, outside of it being in Baker. And since I have to drive out there it will be an low key evening for me.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:15 am to Fratastic423
quote:
And since I have to drive out there it will be an low key evening for me.
Famous last words...
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:18 am to BMoney
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BMoney
Your profile and sig pic aren't working.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:54 am to BMoney
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Famous last words.
lets hope not.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 9:56 am to s14suspense
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Netflix and Chill
73% of all pregnancies are due to the above.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 10:02 am to s14suspense
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Your profile and sig pic aren't working.
Hmmmm...weird. I see them on both the PC and the phone.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:14 am to BMoney
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I don't understand why it should take 6 hours for anyone to brew a single batch of beer.
I'm at 5-5.5, but usually 5.5.
I'm trying to diagnose what takes up most of the time. Setting everything up the day before brew day would cut down on some time. I dont always do that.
Heating up water take a little time, not too much, but a new burner could probably speed that up.
I mash for 60-75 minutes depending on style.
I vorlauf about 4 -7 times.
Transferring from the Sparge to Mash to Kettle probably takes me the longest. I do a slow transfer to gather 7.62 gallons. Probably takes me anywhere from 30-45 minutes. Wonder if any exbeeriments have been done regarding efficiency of a faster wort transfer (15-20 minutes) vs. a longer transfer (30-45 minutes).
I stir up the wort after the transfer then take a sample and cool it in the fridge, meanwhile i'm heating my wort back up to boil. Boil typically for 60 minutes.
Once finished, i remove the kettle, insert the wort chiller and chill to about 180. I then put the kettle back on the burner and maintain a temp of 170-180 for my whirlpool hops. I just started doing an hour long hop stand for IPA's, with 2 hop additions, one at 15 minutes in, and one at 45 minutes in.
Once done, i continue chilling, takes about 10-15 minutes to get down to yeast pitching temps.
Pitch yeast, shake the shite out of the carboy, and put it in the ferm freezer.
Then i'm cleaning what couldn't be cleaned ahead of time.
Brewpot, paddles, wort chiller, tubing, etc...
But with IPA's, how do you do a 3.5 hour brew when you have to mash 1 hour, boil 1 hour, and perform a hop stand for 45 min - 1 hour? Or do you do a shorter hop stand?
I'm all ears on how to shorten brew day. Would love to be able to brew 2 batches in 1 day.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:23 am to BugAC
quote:
But with IPA's, how do you do a 3.5 hour brew when you have to mash 1 hour, boil 1 hour, and perform a hop stand for 45 min - 1 hour? Or do you do a shorter hop stand?
After much research and discussion with commercial breweries, I determined that anything longer than a 15-20 minute hop stand is just a waste of time. So that's where I save time on my hoppy beers.
Obviously, I save that time on the ones I don't do whirlpool hops.
I will say that my banjo burner really gets the water heated up quickly.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:27 am to BugAC
quote:
I vorlauf about 4 -7 times.
Does this do any good?
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:31 am to BugAC
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how do you do a 3.5 hour brew when you have to mash 1 hour, boil 1 hour, and perform a hop stand for 45 min - 1 hour? Or do you do a shorter hop stand?
I think what homebrewers and to an extent professionals are learning is that none of these times are magic and definitely aren't fixed.
One of the best IPA brewers I know only mashes for 20-30 minutes and doesn't do a hop stand. His IPAs kick arse and he wins tons of competitions.
quote:
I determined that anything longer than a 15-20 minute hop stand is just a waste of time
This is what I do too...
This post was edited on 9/30/15 at 11:34 am
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:39 am to BugAC
quote:
I then put the kettle back on the burner and maintain a temp of 170-180 for my whirlpool hops. I just started doing an hour long hop stand for IPA's, with 2 hop additions, one at 15 minutes in, and one at 45 minutes in.
I can't imagine it's THAT important to worry about keeping the temp that consistent.
If it were me I'd just stick the chiller in there at 0 mins and turn the water on for a second. Probably will take it down to that 180 range pretty quick and then just turn the water off and do your hop stand for however long. 1 addition. Multiple additions of anything doesn't make any sense to me and there are Xbeeriments about that.
Then turn your water back on and chill to pitch temps.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:41 am to LSUGrad00
My last hop stand was about 48 hours, but I usually do the no-chill method, so I left all the hops in until I transferred to the fermenter two days after I brewed.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 11:42 am to LSUBoo
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quote:
I vorlauf about 4 -7 times.
Does this do any good?
He fly sparges. probably just sets the grain bed and gets clear wort.
I vorlauf with a 3 quart pitcher probably 4-7 times until there's minimal grain particles in the wort.
But then it's wide open full throttle batch sparging.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 12:32 pm to s14suspense
I'd quit brewing if it was as hard as Bug makes it
I vorlauf twice with a big pitcher. I might try to scoop out some grain if I still get it in the kettle. I'm not terribly worried about it though
I chill to 180 and add my whirlpool hops, let it sit for 15-20 minutes then chill the rest of the way. I don't worry if the temp drops from 180 while doing it.
"frick it" is one of my main ingredients these days
I vorlauf twice with a big pitcher. I might try to scoop out some grain if I still get it in the kettle. I'm not terribly worried about it though
I chill to 180 and add my whirlpool hops, let it sit for 15-20 minutes then chill the rest of the way. I don't worry if the temp drops from 180 while doing it.
"frick it" is one of my main ingredients these days
Posted on 9/30/15 at 12:47 pm to LSUBoo
quote:
Does this do any good?
Well, i don't really have anything to compare it to, because i've always done this. But i take a large glass or small pitcher, fill it up with wort, and pour it back in the mash tun.
I'm doing it to compact the grain bed, and to sort of clean out the wort. I only really stop the vorlauf once my wort is noticeably grain particle free.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 12:48 pm to BugAC
I have done it before... just seemed like a waste of time. Not that it's a huge amount of time.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 12:54 pm to s14suspense
quote:
I can't imagine it's THAT important to worry about keeping the temp that consistent.
If it were me I'd just stick the chiller in there at 0 mins and turn the water on for a second. Probably will take it down to that 180 range pretty quick and then just turn the water off and do your hop stand for however long.
Well, i first experimented with the hop stands with my oktoberfest. I did a small amount of hop stand hops, but i turned on my chiller until the thermometer read 180 then shut it off and pulled it out of the wort. The temp kept dropping to 165 and below after i added my hops, rather quickly.
So, when i did my IPA earlier this month, I turned on the chiller and shut it off when the temp hit 190 (very quick, like 2 or 3 minutes maybe), and i pulled my chiller out. But the temps kept decreasing below 180 so i just put it on the burner and kicked it on at low heat to maintain at 175. Figured since i was doing a hop stand for 45 minutes or more, then i wanted full control over my wort temps.
Granted, most of my knowledge of hop stands comes from reading many articles, and some of the guys here. Everything i read suggested a hold at the 170-180 mark. Now the time on that, could have been referring to commercial breweries, so I will probably shorten that next time, and do a single dosing of hop stand hops.
quote:
Multiple additions of anything doesn't make any sense to me and there are Xbeeriments about that.
I've read about the single vs. double dry hopping. And i will probably still do a double dry hop. Opening the stopper and dropping hops in twice won't affect anything, and it's more of a comfort thing.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 1:24 pm to s14suspense
quote:
He fly sparges. probably just sets the grain bed and gets clear wort.
Correct.
quote:
But then it's wide open full throttle batch sparging.
Yeah, that's where i differ with my fly sparge. I have been getting very good mash efficiencies now that i've gotten everything recalibrated and measured correctly. Last 2 or 3 brews have come in right at 80% efficiency.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 2:26 pm to BugAC
quote:
Yeah, that's where i differ with my fly sparge. I have been getting very good mash efficiencies now that i've gotten everything recalibrated and measured correctly. Last 2 or 3 brews have come in right at 80% efficiency.
This is where I'm different. I'll gladly pay $1.25 for another pound of 2-row, take my 72% efficiency, and cut 2 hours off my brew day by batch sparging.
Posted on 9/30/15 at 2:38 pm to BMoney
I'm not sure what kind of sparge I do.. I guess it's sort of a hybrid. My grain bed is already set due to the RIMS so I don't really vorlauf.
After the timer goes off I cut the ball valve on the outlet of my pump to about 1/2 open, move the re-circulation tubing to the boil kettle, and as the water drains I top off the water to keep it above the grain bed.
IMO the time it takes to fly sparge just isn't worth the 3-5% bump I get in efficiency.
After the timer goes off I cut the ball valve on the outlet of my pump to about 1/2 open, move the re-circulation tubing to the boil kettle, and as the water drains I top off the water to keep it above the grain bed.
IMO the time it takes to fly sparge just isn't worth the 3-5% bump I get in efficiency.
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