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Message
1
Posted on 12/26/12 at 8:30 am to yellowfin
bump for those that might consider getting a vehicle before the end of the yr
Posted on 12/26/12 at 8:08 pm to Gorilla Ball
Been looking to buy myself. With Only a week left, hoping to get a dealer to bite. I've found ads for comparable cars trying to get local dealers to match.
What's the most off anyone has seen on a Tahoe or Yukon? I'm going for 10k off msrp.
What's the most off anyone has seen on a Tahoe or Yukon? I'm going for 10k off msrp.
Posted on 12/27/12 at 6:11 am to Tigerholic
When I go in to buy, I know what the car/truck sells for and I have a set price I am willing to pay. When the salesman comes running, I tell them I would like the best price + taxes out the door cash sale. Right off the bat, the first thing they want is your info. At that point I will tell them what I am willing to pay and if he can't do the deal, I'm walking out the door. Of course they want to play games and I tell them up front no games and my offer stands. If he still wants to play, I just walk off and go somewere else. Did this a few times due to assholes wanting to play. 
Posted on 12/27/12 at 9:45 am to Will Cover
quote:
3. Never show emotion when negotiating. 4. Never offer or accept the first price. 5. Start off negotiations by saying “that’s not good enough.” 6. Never offer a counter price. 7. Silence is golden. When in doubt, shut up and you will pay less. 8. Know what power you possess by being able to “walk away.” 9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle. 10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe. 11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership. 12. Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying – each transaction should be separate and not dependent upon one another.
Great post right there.
They need you as a customer, not the other way around.
Posted on 12/27/12 at 11:15 am to Tigerholic
quote:
I'm going for 10k off msrp.
Mistake # 1.
Don't deal off a "made up number."
Posted on 12/27/12 at 5:22 pm to Will Cover
When you guys say go in with what you want to pay ... does that include taxes/etc? Or actual vehicle only?
Thanks. We'll be looking to buy in or around July. 15 yo son will be 16 then and getting his license. He gets my 2003 Expedition .. I figure HE'LL be safe in it! Other drivers, well, who knows?
Thanks. We'll be looking to buy in or around July. 15 yo son will be 16 then and getting his license. He gets my 2003 Expedition .. I figure HE'LL be safe in it! Other drivers, well, who knows?
Posted on 12/27/12 at 6:33 pm to tiger91
Once you have a price Nothing should be added except TTL do dealer fees, no prep fees nothing
Posted on 12/27/12 at 6:52 pm to tiger91
quote:
... does that include taxes/etc?
Yes. It helps if you know someone in banking. They can tell what the dealership is paying for the car/truck. Another thing is, if a car has been sitting on the lot over two months, that dealership starts loosing money on it.
Posted on 12/27/12 at 8:10 pm to Will Cover
quote:
I'm going for 10k off msrp. Mistake # 1. Don't deal off a "made up number."
I got this "number" from searching for ads on similar vehicles. I've found several vehicles that were advertised for 10k off and a couple even more. My thought process is this tells me how much room they really have to move since all dealers have the same cost.
Posted on 12/27/12 at 8:16 pm to Tigerholic
Stop telling yourself a "good deal" is $10,000 off. Unless you find a 2012 Demo Yukon or Tahoe with 5 to 7,000 miles you won't get this deal. 2013 models are going for around $5,500 to possible $6,000 off. This incentive includes a $2,000 rebate from the factory and $3,000 to $4,000 of dealer incentives. If you have insurance with farm bureau there is an additional $500 rebate or if you are a USAA member there is an additional $750 rebate. The days of dealerships advertising $10,000 off Yukons and Tahoes are long gone. Purchase something based on your needs and wants. If you think it's a good deal go for it. Walking in a GM dealership and saying I'll do the deal at $10,000 won't get you anywhere on the vehicle that you are interested in. Truck incentives are a different animal.
This post was edited on 12/27/12 at 8:18 pm
Posted on 12/27/12 at 9:30 pm to basiletiger
I can pay it, just refuse to overpay. Too many tahoes and yukons out there. Either going to get a slightly used 2012 or look at the Infiniti JX35 instead.
Posted on 12/27/12 at 9:48 pm to Will Cover
bookmarked, thanks
Posted on 4/26/13 at 3:58 pm to Will Cover
Where would one find the invoice price?
Posted on 4/26/13 at 7:09 pm to SippyCup
quote:
Where would one find the invoice price?
You can go on KBB.com and get an estimate of the invoice. I just bought a new truck and asked for the invoice before I started negotiating. They emailed me a copy of the invoice and it was very close to the price KBB had. They don't mind giving you the invoice because that's not what they actually paid for the vehicle. I ended up paying about $9,000 less than the invoice price after all rebates/discounts.
Posted on 4/27/13 at 6:06 pm to JonTheTigerFan
How much is your negotiating power reduced when you are buying a new, popular model that has a new body style? Buying a 2014 model, and want to know what I can get away with.
Posted on 4/29/13 at 10:10 am to wpsnickers
quote:
How much is your negotiating power reduced when you are buying a new, popular model that has a new body style? Buying a 2014 model, and want to know what I can get away with.
Usually you have no bargaining power with brand new models, but like anything else, it depends on the demand and how many the manufacturer made anticipating said demand.
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