re: What oil would you use in a 6.0?

I went with it based on alot of research.I also went with the 5w40 vs the oem 15w40.I had significant stiction issues and found that engine started and ran much better using that oil. I also wouldnt go beyond 5k on oil changes no matter which oil you use.The oil in a 6.0 is doing alot more than it is in most engines and can get sheared down fairly quickly.
The Rotella Syn was only 6 dollars a gallon more than the dino stuff.If $20 is an issue you dont need a modern diesel engine..Just my .02

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significant stiction issues

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Who the hell invented the word "stiction?"

Anyway, I'm pretty sure the injector issues are largely due to particulate loading. The type of fluid used in new engines is not as important as how clean that fluid is. They need to be incredibly clean and I'm waiting for some better filtration tech to come out. Fluid pressures in new diesels are ignorantly high. I'm glad to hear it's working for you though and I wouldn't quit doing whatever I was doing.

On another note, make sure you're anal about fuel filters as well. FILTERS FILTERS FILTERS

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can rest easy now that Im not fretting over blown EGR,turbos, and headgaskets.

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Heard that.

People who drive diesels, spend piles of money to keep them running, don't need them, and defend them to the death make my head hurt

I tow my TT about 4x a year.I tow my tractor about the same.A diesel wasnt necessary for me or most folks that tow occasionaly.To each his own though.
Last spring I took the family to Talladega with the TT in tow.Just this side of Meridian my engine light came on.I had a scangauge 2 on it and pulled the code.It was a turbo underboost code caused by not letting it cool down enough before shutting it down for a breakfast stop.Instead of enjoying our rainfilled trip,I spent it on dieselstop.com trying to figure out if I needed to pull the turbo when I got home.

OP...If you have never towed heavy with your truck make sue to let it idle at least 15-20 minutes before shutting it down when towing.This allows the VGT to cool and the vanes will not stick.

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If I was going to use synthetic I'd probably use Delvac 1

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I've been using this since 2001 in my Dmax...Normal Oil analysis every 7500 miles always comes back great...I've tested to 10k (after oil analysis said I could)and then again at 12,500 and they said it was still good...meaning I could change the filter top it off and continue to 15,000

I did that out of curiosity to what the recommended drain interval with Delvac1 should be for my application and usage...I can go comfortably to 10,000 but choose to do 7,500

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My neighbor has an 04 6.0 170K - Rotella oil and ford filters and stock motor - No issues Co-Worker and 05 6.0 around 160K - Rotella Oil / Ford Filter and stock motor - No issues . They both tell me that maintance is the key with the 6.0's. They both say if they crater they will just bulletproof them and keep the truck. Will be cheaper than buying new.

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Mine has over 200K now. I did have EGR issue and had it bulletproofed at that point (95K miles). Haven't had an issue since. I paid 18K for the truck when it had 60K on it. I spent about $4300 altogether on it and figure that's a lot cheaper than buying a new one.

Truck runs great, pulls great, love it. 2005 F-350 Long Bed 4 door dually.