- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Any carpenters in here? Building a workshop and have some questions.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 12:46 am
Posted on 9/22/12 at 12:46 am
I am building (planing anyway) a 12x16 workshop. I have decieded to put it on decking piers (instead of a slab or on blocks). I will have 15 post dug for 4x4's. I will then use 4x6 suport beams and 2x6 for the joist (to have the plywood nail right, the joist will be 14 1/2 except for the outer 2 they will be 13 3/4), all of this is treated btw. Then cover the floor with 3/4 or OSB. Total coast for foundation and flooring comes to less then 350$.
The walls will be framed on 16" centers, with the back wall 7'3 and the front 7'9". This is a easy design that will shed the water front to back and I will leave 16" of overhang. Now here is where I need help. What kind of wood could I use on the outside walls that looks good, will paint well, and weather resistant. Siding is completely out the question (too expensive). Could I just use sanded pine or regular sheathing? Maybe 15/32 or 1/2 inch and just paint it?
What do you OT carpenters think of my plan and how should I construct the exterior walls? I am trying to do this as cheap as possible.
The walls will be framed on 16" centers, with the back wall 7'3 and the front 7'9". This is a easy design that will shed the water front to back and I will leave 16" of overhang. Now here is where I need help. What kind of wood could I use on the outside walls that looks good, will paint well, and weather resistant. Siding is completely out the question (too expensive). Could I just use sanded pine or regular sheathing? Maybe 15/32 or 1/2 inch and just paint it?
What do you OT carpenters think of my plan and how should I construct the exterior walls? I am trying to do this as cheap as possible.
12
Posted on 9/22/12 at 1:53 am to dreaux
T111
Posted on 9/22/12 at 4:49 am to dreaux
Hardiboard sheets. I would put more slope on the roof. I have a 16x16 wharf with 6"
And water is slow to drain.
And water is slow to drain.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 5:47 am to dreaux
Hardiboard as previously mentioned and I have my own question.
For the floor joist? I know you said you wanted to go as cheap as possible but that is weak for floor joist
quote:
2x6 for the joist
For the floor joist? I know you said you wanted to go as cheap as possible but that is weak for floor joist
Posted on 9/22/12 at 6:24 am to BarDTiger81
quote:
that is weak for floor joist
quote:
Hardiboard as previously mentioned
all solid and valid points.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 7:18 am to dreaux
You really need a taller room than 7' 3" - 7'9". You will regret it in the future. Trying to move around plywood will prove a complete pain plus at some point you will probably want a centralized dust collector with fixed ducting. A ceiling that short gives you no room. Not to mention once you add lights everywhere.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 7:19 am to dreaux
:poporn:
Posted on 9/22/12 at 8:18 am to Tiger 79
Instead of 15 post I will do 9 (3x3). I think 5 suport beams is overkill. For joist I guess 2x8 ??? Will that be big enough?
I could also do 2x10 suport beams (one on each side of the post)??
I would feel better with the 4x6 though I think.
I could also do 2x10 suport beams (one on each side of the post)??
I would feel better with the 4x6 though I think.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 8:20 am to dreaux
2-10 floor joist is what I would recommend.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 8:22 am to CootKilla
I was reading up on installing deck piers. Looks like its just compacted soil will gravel at the bottom. I thought you would want to cement the post 
Posted on 9/22/12 at 8:49 am to dreaux
If the posts arent at bearing depth, it doesn't matter if you have concrete or not, you will probably see a little bit of settling. How deep you going with the piers?
What kind of loading you puttin in this thing? Lots of equipment? Might want to just 2-10 to be safe, like poster above set.
:notremotelyclosetobeingacarpenter:
What kind of loading you puttin in this thing? Lots of equipment? Might want to just 2-10 to be safe, like poster above set.
:notremotelyclosetobeingacarpenter:
Posted on 9/22/12 at 8:54 am to Dodd
Nothing heavy is going in there and it's Doubtfull that this will be our permanent house. We are leasing with the option to buy. I would rather a slab, but I am not the best concrete finisher and it would be more expensive. If you guys don't mind, I will keep posting in this thread through my design process.
Posted on 9/22/12 at 9:09 am to dreaux
Posted on 9/22/12 at 9:19 am to dreaux
If you're not sure if you're staying or not then I wouldn't do posts at all. Buy concrete/cement pads, level them and build on top of them. It will save you from having to build steps too (maybe one 6" high landing)
If you want it raised:
On top of concrete pads. Measure and space. Rent a laser level (or buy one)
If you want it raised:
On top of concrete pads. Measure and space. Rent a laser level (or buy one)
Posted on 9/22/12 at 9:27 am to dreaux
Untreated
Posted on 9/22/12 at 10:08 am to dreaux
How would I attatach the rim joist to the support beams? Clips? Or toe nails?
Posted on 9/22/12 at 10:11 am to DLauw
So if I want to use these raised pads, I should pour some concrete footers? Or could I level it with sand and gravel. I have a laser level btw
Posted on 9/22/12 at 11:45 am to dreaux
Buy some concrete pads 16x16x4. Take a flat point shovel and dig a spot for them. Level them all then put your deck blocks down. I always use joist hangers and I don't use nails for anything but finish carpentry but to each their own. If I built professionally I'd probably get a framing nailer and nail everything.
Posted on 9/24/12 at 8:34 pm to DLauw
So if I use those concrete blocks for support beams, would 2x10's be ok instead of 4x6's? Those look like 2" slots and a slot in the center for a verticals 4x4.
I planed on using joist hangers.
I planed on using joist hangers.
Posted on 9/24/12 at 8:55 pm to dreaux
quote:
would 2x10's be ok instead of 4x6's?
A 2x10 on edge supports more weight than a 4x6 on edge. I have a small shed built with 4x6 runners and 2x8 floor joist. It's 10' wide. I just used concret blocks under the runners. Built it thinking I would relocate it later and build a big barn. 12 years later still there.
Page 1 of 6
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News