How to address rust issue on new Remington 870 Express Youth?
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How to address rust issue on new Remington 870 Express Youth?
Posted by Chicken on 9/21 at 11:14 pm
My son shot his new Remington 870 Express Youth pump shotgun in the rain this morning...we threw the guns in the car to drive home because we had to get somewhere. When I finally got home to unload the gun, I noticed rusting on the metal.

Oiling and wiping it down helped, but receiver still show rust spots.

What are my longer term options to remove these rust spots and prevent it in the future? Thanks in advance.



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Posted by The Last Coco on 9/21 at 11:21 pm to Chicken
Use 0000 or 000 steel wool with some hoppes #9 gun solvent to remove the rust. If you use steel wool that is coarser, you risk scratching the receiver.

In the future, wiping down the gun ahead of time with rem oil can help, but surface rust post shooting is something you will always be dealing with if the gun is not quickly dried and wiped. It is not a long term integrity issue and should be fairly easy to address each time.

ETA: the surface rust has only been a problem for me when the gun was shot in the rain or in a salt water environment. Normal dry usage should not regularly result in surface rust.


This post was edited on 9/21 at 11:24 pm

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Posted by bonescanner on 9/21 at 11:23 pm to The Last Coco
Solid advice above. Just make sure its fine steel wool.


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Posted by TigerOnThe Hill on 9/21 at 11:30 pm to Chicken
Chicken,
Congrats on taking your son to shoot his shotgun. Shouldn't be a big problem removing the rust. Sometime, a good clean, lubricate and protect oil (like CLP, found at Wal-Mart, or Eezox) will remove the oil by itself. If not, try a slurry of Mother's Mag Polish (I buy mine at O' Reilly's) or Flitz (I think it's available at WM) mixed w/ one of the above oils. If neither of those two work, use some VERY fine steel wool. For rust prevention, I recommend: CLP, Shooter's Choice Rust Prevention, Corrosion-X or Eezox). LOTS of ways to remove rust, but these are the ways I do it.

Be sure and take the gun apart and treat any hidden rust. Make a point of showing your son how to care for his equipment. He won't remember HOW you cleaned the gun, but he WILL remember you cleaned it.



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Posted by Nascar Fan on 9/21 at 11:30 pm to Chicken
What The Last Coco said


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Posted by rsbd on 9/22 at 12:08 am to Chicken
With the new finish its hard to stop the rust on the new 870


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Posted by weagle99 on 9/22 at 12:13 am to The Last Coco
One thing to understand: Bluing is a form of rust. Using a harsh chemical that can remove rust will also remove bluing.

I recommend using Flitz metal polish with a cloth before trying anything else. Much less aggressive but can often achieve superior results.

For more intense rust I would soak the area in Breakfree CLP and let sit overnight and then rub with a brass brush (not steel wool).

For severe rust I recommend the Breakfree CLP soak and then using the edge of brass case as a scraper to remove rust.


This post was edited on 9/22 at 12:17 am

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Posted by bapple on 9/22 at 2:02 am to weagle99
If you want a longer term solution, get a rattle can of Rustoleum camo paint. I got sick of the cheap parkerization job on my 870 and I didn't feel it was worth all the money to get a real gun coat put on it. So I taped it up and got to work. The end result is pretty good.











The culprit:




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Posted by mallardhank on 9/22 at 3:18 am to bapple
Stainless steel steel wool
Eezox
And I learned the same lesson you did - either wet or dry always wipe down after using and before transporting



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Posted by Libertyabides71 on 9/22 at 3:43 am to mallardhank
Are new 870's inferior to older ones? I inherited mine from my father, its a Wingmaster from the late 70's/early 80's. It has been his and now my duck/dove/quail/home defense gun since and it has never had a rust problem.


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Posted by mallardhank on 9/22 at 4:11 am to Libertyabides71
Wingmasters are much more highly finished than the Express, especially the older Wingmasters
The older guns probably have a better bluing job than the newer ones, or at least a different method of bluing that to me looks better
The express is more an entry level gun, or one that is more of a boat or truck gun, but parts should interchange with the Wingmasters just not the same level if finish
If you don't do your homework they will still rust



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Posted by DownshiftAndFloorIt on 9/22 at 7:29 am to Libertyabides71
Old wingmasters and new expresses aren't even in the same category IMO.

Wingmasters cost around $800 and expresses around $300 for a reason. Alot more time and care goes into building a wingmaster than an express.

That said, my express was a rust bomb when it was brand new. The finish was bad and it rusted when the weatherman said it might rain. After about a year of cleaning it every time I used it, it quit rusting and the finish looks much better. I guess it just needed some wear and scrubbing.

I also boiled the whole gun once after it took a salt water dunk. Maybe that helped

Bapple, I've thought about painting mine several times. Still considering it, but the finish is much better than it used to be now that it's got some years on it.



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Posted by KingRanch on 9/22 at 8:53 am to Chicken
Cover it with OB stickers


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Posted by deaconjones35 on 9/22 at 8:57 am to KingRanch
Touché.


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Posted by KingRanch on 9/22 at 9:05 am to deaconjones35
I'll have to get chickens address to send him a few.


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Posted by CoastieGM on 9/22 at 9:25 am to Chicken
Preventative tip.

In the early 80's, I was part of a group that supplementary tested BreakFree for marine use. We filled an ammo can with BreakFree and let a few .45's soak in it for a week.

Removed the pistols from the liquid and buried them in the berm behind our range. This location was only 200 feet from the ocean (salt environment). Dug up the pistols at various monthly intervals and there wasn't a speck of rust on them. Pistols all ran like champs.

Needless to say, ever since then I've always drenched any new weapon with BreakFree and allowed it to soak for a week to fully penetrate all pores. It works.



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Posted by CoastieGM on 9/22 at 9:26 am to Chicken
duplicate

This post was edited on 9/22 at 9:30 am

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Posted by weagle99 on 9/22 at 11:43 am to bapple
quote:

bapple



Looks good but what do you clean them with after they are painted?



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Posted by BIG Texan on 9/22 at 12:47 pm to bonescanner
Need fine STAINLESS STEEL WOOL. WORKS BETTER


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Posted by TigerOnThe Hill on 9/22 at 2:58 pm to CoastieGM
Good info, Coastie. A few years ago, I did something similar as a science fair project w/ my son. Applied a preventive coating of a rust preventer (WD-40, Kroil, Reel Magic, Clenz Oil, 3 in 1 Oil, Corrosion-X, Shooter's Choice, Breakfree CPL and Eezox). to angle iron. Then applied 3% salt water to each piece of angle iron. Reapplied the salt water daily for 3 days. After 3 days, compared the area of corrosion on each piece of angle iron. Corrosion-X, Shooter's Choice, Breakfree CLP and Eezox were all nearly corrosion free. I feel pretty good that any of those products will do an excellent job, especially since a gun's not usually going to be exposed to such a harsh environment. In fact, the other products decent job, as well, except for Reel Magic (it was nearly useless).


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