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| re: All-Grain Brewing Step-by-Step I ended up not brewing this weekend, damn. Nice write up. Really intrigued by the no chill and batch sparging really. Even though I have been brewing for a while I keep changing up my process. Batch sparged the last batch and it came out fine. Typically I fly sparge though. I am starting to get pumped about Zapp's. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Apparently so. LINK This post was edited on 1/14 at 11:17 am Reply • Back to Top |
quote: They're referring to the PH levels of the mash. Not necessarily the water. Correct? Reply • Back to Top |
| BR water is on the alkaline side, but I never bother adjusting my PH and my lighter beers come out fine. I just add some calcium and I am good to go. Reply • Back to Top |
| Well i think i may buy some of that ph 5.2 stuff. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: I believe so. Mash and sparge water. This post was edited on 1/14 at 1:04 pm Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Thinking I'll do the same soon. Seems like a no brainer for all grain brewing. Reply • Back to Top |
Posted by Zappas Stache on 1/14 at 1:28 pm to s14suspense quote: The 5.2 stuff can cause other problems...i.e. salty taste to beer. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: I've heard this, but have not noticed it in my beer for BR water. So maybe it depends on the water source of whether or not the 5.2 can add too much salinity to a batch. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Really? Curious to hear about some other people's water adjustments in BR. Reply • Back to Top |
| I've never had a problem with it, but I'm only two all-grain batches in. (That I've tasted) And I only used it on the strike water, not the sparge water... might need to correct that. Although I thought the main point was in enzyme conversion during the mash phase. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Correct from what I know. Your mash should maintain its PH Reply • Back to Top |
Posted by Zappas Stache on 1/14 at 2:51 pm to LSUBoo quote: I'm no expert, but I did research ph 5.2 a while back. It seemed the consensus among people that actually tested their Mash ph was 5.2 did not do anything. Most people claimed adding Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) to raise the alkalinity (ph) or Lactic Acid to lower it was a much better solution. I too need to learn more about water chemistry but I usually just ask the guys at the LHBS what I should add for whatever style of beer I am brewing. I usally don't have to do anything. But I do add gypsum to all my IPAs which really brightens the hops. ETA: The other thing you can do is boil your mash water before starting your mash. This will lower the alkalinity some......but BR water may be too low anyway...not sure. This post was edited on 1/14 at 2:57 pm Reply • Back to Top |
| I tried two batches with the general ph stabilizer stuff. Both times I tested the ph with those strips and it was still high - like 5.8-6.0, if I'm remembering correctly, though those color strips are never the same color as the legend on the container. Reply • Back to Top |
| Yeah, I don't actually do any PH testing, just use the 5.2 stabilizer. Maybe one day I'll have testing equipment too. That's pretty low on the list though, as I don't see it as extremely important. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: How hard are those to sanitize? Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Easy. In my research I read where people just pour the hot wort in there and let it do the sanitizing as it's still 190+ degrees. Just to be sure I give it a quick starsan rinse before dumping the wort in there. Once the wort is in there I squeeze all the air out, close it up, and turn it on it's side to make sure the hot liquid come in contact with the top for a few minutes and heat sanitizes it. Reply • Back to Top |
quote: Ok, I'll give that a try. Combing this with BIAB is really going to streamline all-grain brewing for me. Reply • Back to Top • Refresh |
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