Get you Sum | by TigerSpy on Jul 12, 2009 at 11:54 am |  | |
9431 Delcourt Ave
Baton Rouge, LA 70815-4127
(225) 924-3550
You've seen them... ubiquitous, it seems, on nearly every street corner in south Baton Rouge... the strip mall Chinese restaurant. Sadly, this is what has come to define the cuisine of China to many- the picture menus, the ordering by combo number, the same ingredients, precooked, trucked in from the port of Houston from some faceless, soulless warehouse in some godforsaken place like Bay City or Pasadena.
This obscenity ignores the thousands of years of the culinary culture of China- the regional dishes, the small courses of bliss, the traditional delicacies.
I have heard rumblings that at least one place in the metro B.R. still delivers these goods- and so, tucked away a block off Airline Highway in a nondescript building, I find Dim Sum.
Dim Sum means "a bit of heart" in Chinese, and that proved to be an apt description of what I found here... authentic food, prepared without pretense, simple and satisfying. I arrived a little late for lunch this day, and was concerned to find few cars in the parking lot, and save one table, I appeared to have the spacious dining room to myself. Upon entering, I am presented with two menus- one, a list of dim sum courses complete with an accompanying flip book of pictures for hapless gaijin like myself, and the other a menu of the McChinese offerings we've all come to know. Since I've eaten enough sweet-and-sour pork and sesame chicken to last me a lifetime, I boldly go the Dim Sum route. Dim Sum refers to a series of small courses served with tea- in this case ranging from around $3-5 bucks a piece, with four or so making a tidy lunch.
Perhaps sensing my uncertainty, I am guided by a most helpful employee by the name of Amy who, for the next hour, serves as my culinary tour guide. She also explains why I have the place to myself today... their big crowds come on the weekends, when large Asian families show up for a taste of the traditional, traveling from neighboring states in some cases to get a bite of some things you just can't get in most Chinese restaurants around here. Under Amy's steady hand, I make my choices- Cha Siu Bao ($2.50 for 3) a sort of bready dumpling filled with minced Chinese barbecued pork; the Siu Mai ($2.90 for 4) rice flour dumplings stuffed with pork, and the Ha Gow ($3.25 for 4)- pleated, translucent shrimp dumplings that seem born to be married with the soy sauce and homemade chili oil that stand on every table.
Since Dim Sum is made to be served with tea, I opt for a hot pot of Oolong, one of the many varieties Dim Sum offers.
The Cha Siu Bao look like they might be heavy or floury, but what I find is a light texture, slightly sweet, and filled with delicious minced pork bits in a Chinese barbecue sauce. On to the Siu Mai, these are moist, flavorful bits of pork stuffing in dumplings that took particularly well to the aforementioned chili oil. The Ha Gow were fantastic- snappy shrimp inside a translucent dumpling that releases juicy, delicious broth with every bite.
On the spot I resolve to return, as I have only scratched the surface... if you consider these as appetizers, there are also main courses- stir fries of rice noodles, vegetable stir fries, wontons, and an array of chef's specials ranging from the traditional clay pot dished that are sure to be my next meal here, to daily specials and fresh curries, even steamed whole fish.
If you are looking to break out of combo meal Chinese, make the trip to Dim Sum and experiment a little- you'll get a little taste of Hong Kong one small place at a time.
Category: Food & Drink
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Sol Food | by TigerSpy on Jun 27, 2009 at 4:13 pm | | |
From Eat Baton Rouge!
El Sol de Guerrero #1 (La Tiendita)
6031 Siegen Lane
Baton Rouge, LA
(225) 293-0879
Hours: Mon-Sat. 8:30am - 8:30pm
Closed Sunday
By now, readers of EBR can probably guess I have something of a taqueria-fetish. Finding the best of taqueria food in all the new spots popping up around Baton Rouge and its environs has become something of a quest for me. The simplicity and sincerity of the food served in these joints has pretty much ruined me for the Tex-Mex that used to be Baton Rouge's only choice for south-of-the-border fare.
Scratching another name off of my hit list in this way brought me to El Sol de Guerrero- "The sun of the soldier" en Espanol- a restaurant serving authentic Mexican food attached, as so many are, to a little Mexican grocery named "La Tiendita." Most people I've spoken with refer to the restaurant as such, as well.
Whatever you might call it, there is no mistaking that this place can be counted among Baton Rouge's hidden little treasures. The restaurant is a clean, attractive space- nicer than some similar outfits that have a restaurant as more of an afterthought in comparison to their groceries. I was met by a smiling server with a fresh, hot basket of tortilla chips- something I've found oddly inconsistent in taquerias like this. These were light, crispy, perfectly salted and served with a fresh <span style="font-style:italic;">salsa mexicana<span style="font-style:italic;"></span> Shortly afterward, two huge squeeze bottles of <span style="font-style:italic;">salsa verde</span> and <span style="font-style:italic;">salsa rojo</span> arrived as well. The verde was spot-on, a tangy mix of tomatillos, garlic, roasted peppers and cilantro.
The rojo is a bigger flavor, all smoky chiles and piquant notes.
First up was an order of one of my taqueria litmus tests...Tacos Al Pastor. Marinated, grilled pork sliced off a rotisserie, shawarma-style, served in a warm corn tortilla garnished with chopped red onion, pineapple, cilantro, and a squeeze of fresh lime. Like pizza, when these are average, they're still pretty good... and when they are great, they become truly transcendental. El Sol's version are of the latter type... in fact, I think they might just take the title of Baton Rouge's best taco away from previous champ El Paste Dorado. At a smooth $1.95 a piece, these could be the single best food deal in Red Stick. You can also add rice, beans, and salad for a paltry $2.95 more for a more complete dinner.
I also sampled the Burrito Asada ($4.95)- a large flour tortilla filled with cheese, beans, rice, sour cream, guacamole, tomatoes, lettuce, and carne asada (marinated, grilled skirt steak.) This was an all-around winner... served piping hot, it was a stick-to-your-ribs satisfying offering. The meat was flavorful and well seasoned, and when forkfuls of this burrito were doused with the aformentioned salsas, taste went to the next level- not enough to beat defending champ Juanita's Supermercado y Taqueria's sublime burritos, but certainly very, very good in its own right.
Lastly, we made a run at the Enchiladas Verdes de Pollo ($7.95), shredded chicken stuffed and rolled in corn tortillas topped with a tangy tomatillo sauce and a sprinkling of crumbled queso blanco. These were served with the requisite rice and beans side, both of which were good if not remarkable. The enchiladas were plenty tasty, a simple preparation in a peasant style which made for a delicious, filling lunch if a bit low on the "wow" factor.
I came away suitably impressed from this visit, one made all the much gladder when I realized how close El Sol is to the Eat Baton Rouge! world headquarters. I've already planned a return mission to eat more of those tacos, as well as some of the daily specials and seafood offerings. Buen Provecho, indeed.
One last tip- skip the soft drinks, even the tempting Mexican Coca-Colas, in favor of El Sol's thirst-quenching aguas frescas (tamarindo is my fave) or horchatas. You'll tell me muchas gracias later.
Category: Food & Drink
Tags: baton rouge, burrito, mexican, food, la tiendita, el sol de guerrero, carne, asada, enchilada, tacos, al pastor, salsa verde, salsa rojo
Bistro Byronz C'est Magnifique | by TigerSpy on Mar 22, 2009 at 8:03 pm | | |
Taken from Eat Baton Rouge!
BISTRO BYRONZ
5412 GOVERNMENT STREET
BATON ROUGE LOUISIANA 70806 - 225-218-1433
Hello again, Baton Rouge foodies.... EBR! is proud to bring you another report on the Capital City's most famous- and infamous- eateries.
We had the pleasure of revisiting of our darlings- Bistro Byronz. We've come to appreciate the consistency and value Byronz provides, and our latest trip did not disappoint.
Byronz aspires to nail the brasserie aesthetic... replete in black and white tile, frosted glass and faux antique fixtures. Located in a renovated old house on Government Street, it makes for a comely combination of homey and chic.
We were greeted and seated promptly by a hostess decked out in a french white apron, and our orders were taken with little delay. Byronz features a brasserie-style menu featuring everything from the sandwiches which made the old Byronz famous, to hors d'oeuvres like the savory and delicious blue cheese chips,succulent salads like the Steak Frites salad (more on that later) soups, a la carte sides, and entrees.
Since there was a bit of a chill in the air the evening of our visit, we began with a pair of soups- the Corn & Shrimp ($4.45) and the Sweet Corn & Crab ($ 4.45). The Corn and Shrimp featured its star ingredients in a tomato-ey broth with a spicy kick. It's a bit jarring at first for those more accustomed to a sweeter corn and shrimp soup, but still satisfies with sinus-clearing blend of big, bold flavors. The Sweet Corn & Crab arrives as a thicker, cream based bisque with kernels of corn and chunks of claw crab meat suspended in it. Though a bit toothsome, this soup had great flavor and hit the spot.
In keeping with the comfort food angle we had working, Bistro Byronz's Pot Roast Creole ($13.95)was up next.A fresh green salad tossed in Byronz's house vinaigrette was followed with a hefty serving of fork-tender pot roast reeking of beefy, winy goodness. Accompanying it came the requisite side of garlic mashed potatoes with a flavorful gravy, and a serving of home style french green beans. This was a formidable meal in portion- big, stick-to-your ribs fare. While it was satisfying, it lacked any wow factor, any little thing that might truly set it apart and make it unique. One key ingredient, a little truffle oil or something similarly special would have taken this already good dish to the next level. We'd have liked to see them "chef it up" just a little. Still, we weren't disappointed.
We also tried the Steak Frites Salad, ($13.95) the salad version of Bistro Byronz popular brasserie staple, Steak Frites ($19.95). Seared and sliced Filet Mignon is served atop bed of crunchy romaine lettuce,topped with bleu cheese crumbles and a delicious cane vinaigrette. Layered on top of that is the hallmark of any decent brasserie worthy of the name- perfectly cooked, crispy, thin frites- what God intended French Fries to be. It may seem anathema to put fries on a salad,but here it's just what the doctor ordered- a salty, crunchy counter punch to the rich beef and pungent cheese, just screaming out for a glass of red to complete your trip to nirvana.
If the frites were cooked in duck fat, this dish would become truly otherworldly, but for now it will just have to settle for being the best salad in Baton Rouge.
We ended the evening over a piece of the Key Lime Pie ($5.95). It was a tasty finale, but not memorable... next time we might opt instead for the Heavenly Hash Supreme, or on a chilly night like this one, the Bistro Bread Pudding.
Bistro Byronz is a perfect date night stop that hits all the high notes- good, unpretentious food served in chic, charming atmosphere that won't break the bank, best of all. C'est Magnifique!
Category: Food & Drink
Tags: baton rouge restaurants, baton rouge, Bistro Byronz, brasserie, creole, pot roast, Steak Frites
Sakura misses the mark | by TigerSpy on Feb 28, 2009 at 11:31 am | | |
From Eat Baton Rouge!
Sakura Sushi & Hibachi
7951 One Calais Ave
Baton Rouge, LA 70809
(225) 766-2088
Hello after a long time, EBR-ites. My quest for the best things to eat in Red Stick recently brought me by the recently opened Sakura Sushi Bar and Hibachi, housed in that little piece of real estate hell known as One Calais, in the building that has previously been the dining kiss-of-death for such forgettable attempts as Louisiana Pizza Kitchen and (most recently) Vincent's Italian Cuisine in addition to countless others.
After shoehorning the old SUV into one of Sakura's limited parking spaces, we were greeted by the charming spectacle of busboys congregated outside the front entrance having a smoke. We entered the foyer to be greeted by a pleasant smiling hostess asking us whether we wanted to eat "traditional or sushi," which was a bit of a head-scratcher as I've never known those two terms to be mutually exclusive. Apparently, what she meant was sushi-bar seating, or seating in the cavernous, maze-like dining room. Seriously- this place is huge, looking even bigger inside than one would surmise from viewing the exterior. We were seated in the hinterlands of one of the rear dining rooms- an outpost so removed from the rest of the restaurant that we thought we might have to order via telegraph or carrier pigeon. It was an odd sensation to go from the bamboo and black lacquer cliche' of the foyer to the warm beige and ochre dining room- completely unchanged from its previous incarnation as Vincent's, right down to the paintings of Venice on the wall. Even the pens we were given to fill out our sushi slips were still labeled as Vincent's- I guess they came with the paintings. We sat bathed in hellishly bright ceiling mounted floodlights that didn't exactly scream "atmosphere." Feeling like french fries ready for pickup, we decided to press on.
Our meal began after a drink order from a rather surly server, whose frustrated visage belied her attempts at being nice and polite. We thought it might be because they appeared to be slow this night- odd, considering it was the first Friday night during Lent in south Louisiana. Our server clarified with surprising candor- it seems they were breaking in a new manager (apparently just having fired the old one) and the transition wasn't going so smoothly. A passing server stopped to chime in, and it looked as though there might be mutiny. Throwing caution to the wind, we elected to press on, trying the "Sushi for 2" ($32) which features 18 pieces of chef-selected sushi, a California Roll, a spicy tuna roll, and tempura roll, along with a salad and miso soup. The soup and salad arrived first. The miso soup was terribly watery, thin, and lacking flavor. Moving on the salad, we found bagged iceberg lettuce mix topped with a bottled ginger dressing. Neither of these first two courses were finished. Mercifully, the sushi arrived next on a huge white platter. It was presented beautifully, fanned out from the center like a star, with rolls on each corner and a little tree made from an herb spring planted in a mound of wasabi. Nice!
Our buoyed spirits were short-lived though, as the sushi failed to deliver on its promise. The salmon and tuna nigiri were good, although under seasoned- no sweet-and-vinegary tang in the rice, no wasabi under the fish. This made for a rather bland bite as the fish itself lacked in flavor. The shrimp nigiri was old and brown around the edges- unpalatable. The snapper had an off-scent. The whitefish garnished with green onions was better, surpassing the rubbery fluke alongside it. We ate what we could stomach and left the rest behind. Our server passed by once with an "Any complaints?" which there surely were, but her bluntness left me speechless. After it became apparent that the order of a second glass of wine had been missed, we elected to make for the exits.
I'm not sure whether Sakura is a lost cause, but it is certainly teetering on the brink. Half-empty on a night it should be packed with hungry Catholics, it doesn't look good. Sakura seems to lack focus... it's menu is all over the place, trying to be all things to all people (there is a full Chinese menu as well, which is concerning in a place that bills itself as a sushi restaurant)- and misses its target altogether. It has no brand, no vibe, no consistent feel, this Asian mess stuffed into an old Italian joint. Perhaps the new manager was warranted considering the lack of discipline and professionalism displayed by the staff- and if they get that turned around, and get the kitchen committed to delivering FRESH food made with care- Sakura has a shot. This night, though, Sakura had the feel of a loose ship tottering on a uneven keel.
Category: Food & Drink
Tags: baton rouge, eat baton rouge, sushi, sakura
Soaking Up Philly Like A Sponge... | by TigerSpy on Feb 14, 2009 at 3:42 pm | | |
353 S. Sherwood Forest Blvd., Baton Rouge, 70816. Phone: 225-293-1003
Some of life's greatest pleasures are simple. In a sense it's harder to make a dish with only a few ingredients really sing than to create an ornate, involved dish. There's nothing to distract, nothing to mask or hide less than fresh ingredients or flawed preparation. In the same vein, as someone who eats out a lot sometimes I have to set aside the beurres blanc and demiglaces and curries and whatnot and just go get something simple and good... the perfect burger, some fried chicken and another of my favorites, a good Philly cheese steak. Alas, an authentic Philly has usually been very hard to find in a town like Red Stick. There are many pretenders, but most folks here just don't really nail it, as there are few here who've actually had the real McCoy to use as a frame of reference.
When I stumbled across South of Philly- newly arrived on Sherwood Forest Boulevard, I approached with a bit of skepticism. S.O.P.'s menu claims "Authentic Philadelphia Cheese Steaks and More", so I set to put them to the test. Entering the restaurant, I felt as if I had stumbled onto the set of Sponge Bob Square Pants... in its previous incarnation, this space was obviously a seafood joint, complete with the requisite aqua paint scheme and kitschy nautical nonsense on the walls. So far, it seems, the decor hasn't caught up with the new cuisine. Resisting the urge to order in me finest pirate voice, I approached the counter and observed my first good sign-literally. Above the counters was a bright sign explaining the proper ritual for ordering a cheese steak. Starting with size, and "wit" or "witout" onions, and what kind of cheese, you tell them how to make your masterpiece. Normally I like provolone on steak sandwiches, but in the interest of authenticity, I ordered mine as God intended in the City of Brotherly Love- with onions and yes, Cheez Whiz. Cheez Wiz? Yes. Cheez-freaking-Whiz. Those looking for a less authentic Philly experience can also opt for American, Provolone, or Mozzarella.
Lesser cheese steak purveyors use cheap minute steaks, so my validating experience continued when my Philly arrives full of minced rib eye, sauteed onions, and Cheez Whiz on Amoroso bread- the real Philly cheese steak bread served in Philadelphia. There's only so much waxing poetic I can do, but suffice it to say I was blown away by this cheese steak... a hot, fresh, satisfying meal. The bread was fresh, hot, and soft. The minced rib eye was hot and juicy, the onions perfectly caramelized around the edges, and the cheese melted perfectly on top. Another pleasant surprise came in the form of the fries served on the side of the Philly- too often, a soggy afterthought. These fries were hot and crispy, and still had the skin on like honest-to-goodness home fries- like fries should be. When it comes to their signature dish, South of Philly hits a real home run.
South of Philly also offers other Philly-based sandwiches like pepper steak, pizza steaks, and mushroom steaks, all in $6 to $10 range. SOP also offers an array of poboys, or a build your own burger setup for those less enamored with the pinnacle of Pennsylvania cuisine. For me, though, I've found a new home in which to scratch my cheese steak cravings. So, don your lime green jogging suit and gold chains, and head over to Sherwood Forest to soak up a taste of Philly like a sponge.
Category: Food & Drink
Tags: baton rouge restaurants, philly, cheesesteak, south of philly, amoroso bread
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