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Started By
Message
DIY Landscaping - Anyone here done it?
Posted on 10/11/23 at 4:50 pm
Posted on 10/11/23 at 4:50 pm
Surprisingly, there's very little resource for diy landscaping. Looking to do something simple, mounded landscape beds, boxwoods, some larger hollys and dwarf magnolias, and maybe a little bit of color.
I've installed a 12" rock border behind where the landscaping will go. I've also painted an outline, killed the grass, and first pass tilled the dirt where the beds will be.
Next step is adding dirt/compost/whatever to till into the existing dirt then topping off to the height i want. Keeping it about 5" higher than existing ground + 2" of mulch on top.
Also will install drip irrigation with emitters at each plant coming off of a 1/2" main irrigation line.
My current question is what to use to build up the beds. I've priced bulk bedding soil by the yard from area vendors and also by the bag from lowes. The bulk soil would also have to be amended with some bag stuff pushing the price up to almost equal. They come out to within $10 per yard with a combination of top soil, manure, peat moss, and compost. I feel like it's crazy that bagged soil would be the same or similar price but it seems that way.
Has anyone here built up their beds and if so, what percentages of material have you used (soil, manure, compost, peat moss, etc.)?
Thanks
I've installed a 12" rock border behind where the landscaping will go. I've also painted an outline, killed the grass, and first pass tilled the dirt where the beds will be.
Next step is adding dirt/compost/whatever to till into the existing dirt then topping off to the height i want. Keeping it about 5" higher than existing ground + 2" of mulch on top.
Also will install drip irrigation with emitters at each plant coming off of a 1/2" main irrigation line.
My current question is what to use to build up the beds. I've priced bulk bedding soil by the yard from area vendors and also by the bag from lowes. The bulk soil would also have to be amended with some bag stuff pushing the price up to almost equal. They come out to within $10 per yard with a combination of top soil, manure, peat moss, and compost. I feel like it's crazy that bagged soil would be the same or similar price but it seems that way.
Has anyone here built up their beds and if so, what percentages of material have you used (soil, manure, compost, peat moss, etc.)?
Thanks
8
Posted on 10/11/23 at 5:37 pm to poochie
Yes I have - but hired a landscape architect to develop the plans for me.
As far building the landscape beds I simply used bulk garden soil sold by most retail garden center, which is composted forest products with some sand added. No other amendments other than inorganic fertilizer. I built my beds at a height of about 1 ft, to assist in drainage in our heavy clay soils, plus you do have settling over time, and frankly I like the look of the elevated beds above lawn grade.
My planting material was azaleas, camellias (acid loving woody shrubs), loropediums, ornamental gingers, ornamental grasses, some ground cover (liriope), herbaceous perennials, and others.
All the greenscape has grown wonderfully the bulk garden soil beds without all the supplemental amendments you have mentioned - but that’s your choice to use them or not (I do use those in raised vegetable garden beds, but not landscape beds). I also installed a micro-irrigation system at the time of planting, and without doubt it has helped immensely. .
When I started about 6 years ago bulk garden soil was $30/ cubic yard, now it’s $40-45.
As far building the landscape beds I simply used bulk garden soil sold by most retail garden center, which is composted forest products with some sand added. No other amendments other than inorganic fertilizer. I built my beds at a height of about 1 ft, to assist in drainage in our heavy clay soils, plus you do have settling over time, and frankly I like the look of the elevated beds above lawn grade.
My planting material was azaleas, camellias (acid loving woody shrubs), loropediums, ornamental gingers, ornamental grasses, some ground cover (liriope), herbaceous perennials, and others.
All the greenscape has grown wonderfully the bulk garden soil beds without all the supplemental amendments you have mentioned - but that’s your choice to use them or not (I do use those in raised vegetable garden beds, but not landscape beds). I also installed a micro-irrigation system at the time of planting, and without doubt it has helped immensely. .
When I started about 6 years ago bulk garden soil was $30/ cubic yard, now it’s $40-45.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 6:57 pm to CrawDude
Does the clay beneath the garden soil cause problems or was 12” of good stuff enough?
This post was edited on 10/11/23 at 6:58 pm
Posted on 10/11/23 at 7:00 pm to poochie
Find the most reputable bulk soil supplier and purchase from them. You can send some off to LSU for a soil sample test if you would like to. Don’t buy bulk soil if the pile has weeds at the base. The most important part of your project is the quality of your material and its most important component is soil. Purchasing the best soil will help,prevent weeding in the future. Do not till in purchased bulk soil with the native soil. The bagged soil amendments are fine but bag soil is designed for pots, not the landscape. Bagged material is crazy expensive compared to purchasing by the yard anyway
Posted on 10/11/23 at 7:13 pm to turkish
quote:
Does the clay beneath the garden soil cause problems or was 12” of good stuff enough?
12 inches of garden “soil” on top of clay was plenty. I wouldn’t plant most of what I planted directly, at grade, into clay soil. Drainage is critical for most commonly used woody landscape ornamentals - they can’t tolerate wet feet.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 7:27 pm to CrawDude
Raised plantings are crucial in Louisiana for sure
Posted on 10/11/23 at 7:37 pm to Daponch
Why don’t you want to till in purchased soil with native soil? I have a heavy clay soil but am not looking to do a raised bed. I was thinking about filling in top soil with the clay to help with the compactness.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:00 pm to poochie
I’d go higher than 5” because you’ll have some settling when the ground eventually compact's after the tilling. 8-10” should be good. You should also see if you can get your hands on some Eptam pre-emergent to mix in when tilling, it’s great for flower beds and gardens.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:04 pm to wryder1
A few comments and notes:
I can’t find anyone locally to supply soil, cheapest I can find is $60/yard, $55 delivery. Big box bagged stuff comes out to about $70/cy.
I’m interested in the comment about not tilling into existing ground as well. The existing is what you’d expect to see around a recent build that’s never been landscaped, just hard packed silt and clay. I’ve already broke it up once so roots can penetrate.
I’ll be build up the beds some but don’t want to go too high, our house is built 2’ off the ground with a brick band around the bottom. I paid for that, i’m not hiding it, lol! Max above ground level I want to go is 8”-9” total.
Didn’t cover in first post but let’s talk where to purchase plants. The big wholesale nursery’s like Doug young are half the price of local places. Plus I want to buy about 60-80 sweet viburnum to plant along my property line out back. Not afraid to travel to buy in bulk. Has anyone used these type of places?
Also, tell me more about hiring a landscape architect. What’s that cost? How does that work? Could they do a master plan for my whole property? I’m a do’er, show me the finished plan and I can execute. But I’m not a landscape designer for sure.
I can’t find anyone locally to supply soil, cheapest I can find is $60/yard, $55 delivery. Big box bagged stuff comes out to about $70/cy.
I’m interested in the comment about not tilling into existing ground as well. The existing is what you’d expect to see around a recent build that’s never been landscaped, just hard packed silt and clay. I’ve already broke it up once so roots can penetrate.
I’ll be build up the beds some but don’t want to go too high, our house is built 2’ off the ground with a brick band around the bottom. I paid for that, i’m not hiding it, lol! Max above ground level I want to go is 8”-9” total.
Didn’t cover in first post but let’s talk where to purchase plants. The big wholesale nursery’s like Doug young are half the price of local places. Plus I want to buy about 60-80 sweet viburnum to plant along my property line out back. Not afraid to travel to buy in bulk. Has anyone used these type of places?
Also, tell me more about hiring a landscape architect. What’s that cost? How does that work? Could they do a master plan for my whole property? I’m a do’er, show me the finished plan and I can execute. But I’m not a landscape designer for sure.
This post was edited on 10/11/23 at 8:43 pm
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:23 pm to wryder1
quote:
Why don’t you want to till in purchased soil with native soil? I have a heavy clay soil but am not looking to do a raised bed. I was thinking about filling in top soil with the clay to help with the compactness.
Though you can do that, there is still the danger that you are potentially creating an impervious “bowl” in which water will collect and not drain off fast enough to cause potential root in plants. In much of high rainfall, heavy clay southern LA it’s wise to plant at least several inches above soil grade.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:50 pm to poochie
Can we have some pics posted of what people have done and how it looks. We just finished our forever home in April and plan on doing this in Spring. Buddy of mine has a friend that does this and he came out and offered to help us get it like we want it, at no charge. I am paying him something though. Would love to see pics if possible. We are looking at something simple as well with boxwoods and the Christmas tree looking green in front of columns and some color mixed in.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 8:51 pm to CrawDude
quote:
Though you can do that, there is still the danger that you are potentially creating an impervious “bowl” in which water will collect and not drain off fast enough to cause potential root in plants.
I have underground drainage from my gutters, under the beds, and out into the yard. Plus a pretty good slope away from the house.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 9:13 pm to shoelessjoe
quote:
Christmas tree
Oakleaf Holly and Oakland Holly. I think Oakleaf is better and have both. I also have Acadiana, but they kinda suck compared.
quote:
boxwoods
Consider dwarf Yaupon holly as a substitute for this. I've had about 50 of them for 2+ years. I've lost a couple of the larger ones I bought (probably for the reasons discussed) but not even one of the 1-2 gallon ones. For the traditional ones, I find they have a short life span and I've eventually had to replace about half of them after a few years. Not all of them had to be replaced, but once a branch turns brown it just seems to take away from the value of that part of your hedge. Just one dude's opinion.
Posted on 10/11/23 at 9:44 pm to UpstairsComputer
Stay away from boxwood. I would consider a dwarf dystillium such as Vintage Jade or Blue Cascade. There are many more varieties also. It may take a little longer to make a dense hedge but they do not have the issues the boxwoods have. The dwarf yaupon will eventually will be huge. Oakleaf is a great pyramidal holy.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:26 am to poochie
address your soils and drainage first before you worry about plants. I use a mix I get from a bulk supplier here in Hammond if I need a lot or make my own if I need a little.
you can get shredded bark from a sawmill
you can get sand from a pit hauler
you can get manure from a farm
you can get clay from your native soil
try not to use too much peat
you can get shredded bark from a sawmill
you can get sand from a pit hauler
you can get manure from a farm
you can get clay from your native soil
try not to use too much peat
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:26 am to WeagleEagle
quote:
Stay away from boxwood.
If you only knew, my friend. You know what that say is undefeated, right? I can’t convince her otherwise. Every house that has boxwoods has dead or dying ones. I’m trying.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:41 am to poochie
Tilling will only mix weed seeds in the fill dirt or native soil with the premium soil you just purchased. You can do some tilling if you really feel the need to but then you will need to top the bed area with purchased garden soil to keep the weeds down. I never till in purchased soil. Dan Gill has been giving that terrible advice for forever. Trees and larger shrubs can be planted into the fill material (soil on site) and backfilled with the fill soil to grade. You can plant the rootballs halfway or 3/4 depth and the rest of the area can be backfilled with garden soil. They will have to root into the soil on site anyway so tilling to improve the whole bed is mostly pointless. If the site has heavy soils you want to backfill your plant holes with the material you,dug up or water will pool in the rootballs and cause root rot eventually. Smaller perennials and 1gallon material can be planted into garden soil in raised beds made of the garden soil
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:43 am to Daponch
If you are planting into native soils away from the house or filled areas you can plant trees and shrubs slightly above grade as long as you have good drainage. Builders use cheap fill soil good for compaction which works for their construction needs but is terrible for plants
Posted on 10/12/23 at 7:56 am to poochie
My contractor hired a guy to install my garden when when moved in. I’ve since redone most of it. I left the holly trees and Italian cypress and ripped out the junipers and Indian hawthorns. I added 3 yds of garden soil bc the original soil settled so much the garden looked flat. I could’ve used 4yds. I replaced the hawthorns with shi shi camellias and added a bunch of Petite knockout roses. Also added some archangels for more color. Very happy with the camellias instead of the hawthorns.
Some advice would be to buy more soil than you think you need and build the beds high as they will settle and if you have gutter downspouts put in subsurface drainage to bypass the garden. Also, my wife likes the black mulch but I hate it. It floats with rains and fades easily. Nothing like good pine straw IMO.
Some advice would be to buy more soil than you think you need and build the beds high as they will settle and if you have gutter downspouts put in subsurface drainage to bypass the garden. Also, my wife likes the black mulch but I hate it. It floats with rains and fades easily. Nothing like good pine straw IMO.
Posted on 10/12/23 at 8:00 am to poochie
Account for settling.
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