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Started By
Message
Kayak Storage Lift above garage
Posted on 6/20/19 at 1:03 am
Posted on 6/20/19 at 1:03 am
So my garage thread had one or two people interested in my kayak storage lift and I told them I'd share some more details and pics.
***Also, yes the lift is slanted and not quite level. But this is due to an unbalanced load. If I switch the boat to the other side of the lift then it slants the other way. Once I get my Girlfriend's boat here to sit on the other side it shouldn't have that issue. It sits level with no boat on it.
So, the system has 9 pulleys. Four for running the wire down to the four points on the lift. Four for directing the wires above the lift. And one for directing the winch wire from the ceiling down to the winch.
I used two different types of pulleys from home depot. 5 of one type and four of the other.
Here are those links.
Pulley-5
Pulley-4
I ordered the winch from home depot as well. I was originally looking at ones that were made for wall mounting so the handle wouldn't crank in the direction of the wall and not turn. But I wasn't satisfied with the reviews and or price on the ones I found. So I ended up buying a more standard type and mounting it on a piece of 4x4 mounted on the wall. Here is the link for the winch. I went with this one cause it had good reviews for what I needed and came with wire.
Winch
I used an eye swivel to transfer from the four wire system down to one for the winch. I just happened to have this laying around and it seemed perfect for the job.
I used wire rope (steel cable) from harbor freight for the 4 lines running from the eye swivel to the lift. I also got the wire clamps from there.
Wire Rope
I used 2.5 inch chain link fence end posts for the lift (cause they would support the weight over the span without bending, they were the right length, and I also had a few laying around). I secured them together with a 2x4x8 to keep the them from swinging and turning all over the place.
I used 2x6s across the top of the ceiling to give me the ability to mount the pulleys where I wanted and spread the weight over a couple of joists... but the weight really wouldn't have been an issue. It was mainly for the ability to mount the pulleys where needed.
And that's pretty much it. If you decided to make one I'd do a decent amount of planning ahead of time.
Find out the width of your boat and length obviously and plan for the needed lift size.
Plan for where you will mount the pulleys. Check for ceiling joist spacing, etc.
Measure and make sure you have the eye swivel part moving back and forth across enough of the ceiling to give the boat the ability to raise and lower to the heights you want.
Make sure your pulleys are placed and angled to guide the wire through smoothly.
If you plan to have it above your garage door do alot of thinking about the space you are going to fit it in. My garage door when raised is 24 inches from the ceiling at the highest point. My boat is 14 inches tall. And with this set up it easily clears the door when fully raised even with the slant of the lift due to the unbalanced load.
I guess that's about it, let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help.
ETA: I had the four green brackets laying around as well. A lag eye bolt would have worked just as well if rated for the weight needed. And I got the little chain connectors from harbor freight as well. Figured they'd be nice if I ever needed to take lift off for some reason.
***Also, yes the lift is slanted and not quite level. But this is due to an unbalanced load. If I switch the boat to the other side of the lift then it slants the other way. Once I get my Girlfriend's boat here to sit on the other side it shouldn't have that issue. It sits level with no boat on it.
So, the system has 9 pulleys. Four for running the wire down to the four points on the lift. Four for directing the wires above the lift. And one for directing the winch wire from the ceiling down to the winch.
I used two different types of pulleys from home depot. 5 of one type and four of the other.
Here are those links.
Pulley-5
Pulley-4
I ordered the winch from home depot as well. I was originally looking at ones that were made for wall mounting so the handle wouldn't crank in the direction of the wall and not turn. But I wasn't satisfied with the reviews and or price on the ones I found. So I ended up buying a more standard type and mounting it on a piece of 4x4 mounted on the wall. Here is the link for the winch. I went with this one cause it had good reviews for what I needed and came with wire.
Winch
I used an eye swivel to transfer from the four wire system down to one for the winch. I just happened to have this laying around and it seemed perfect for the job.
I used wire rope (steel cable) from harbor freight for the 4 lines running from the eye swivel to the lift. I also got the wire clamps from there.
Wire Rope
I used 2.5 inch chain link fence end posts for the lift (cause they would support the weight over the span without bending, they were the right length, and I also had a few laying around). I secured them together with a 2x4x8 to keep the them from swinging and turning all over the place.
I used 2x6s across the top of the ceiling to give me the ability to mount the pulleys where I wanted and spread the weight over a couple of joists... but the weight really wouldn't have been an issue. It was mainly for the ability to mount the pulleys where needed.
And that's pretty much it. If you decided to make one I'd do a decent amount of planning ahead of time.
Find out the width of your boat and length obviously and plan for the needed lift size.
Plan for where you will mount the pulleys. Check for ceiling joist spacing, etc.
Measure and make sure you have the eye swivel part moving back and forth across enough of the ceiling to give the boat the ability to raise and lower to the heights you want.
Make sure your pulleys are placed and angled to guide the wire through smoothly.
If you plan to have it above your garage door do alot of thinking about the space you are going to fit it in. My garage door when raised is 24 inches from the ceiling at the highest point. My boat is 14 inches tall. And with this set up it easily clears the door when fully raised even with the slant of the lift due to the unbalanced load.
I guess that's about it, let me know if you have any questions and I'll try to help.
ETA: I had the four green brackets laying around as well. A lag eye bolt would have worked just as well if rated for the weight needed. And I got the little chain connectors from harbor freight as well. Figured they'd be nice if I ever needed to take lift off for some reason.
This post was edited on 6/23/19 at 6:16 pm
5
Posted on 6/20/19 at 1:09 am to NATidefan
All in all I'd say it was close to a 200 dollar project.
If I changed anything I probably would have just used two wire clamps at the eye swivel and run two wires through each clamp. One clamp for the making the wire loops for the two wires holding the front of the lift, and one clamp for making the wire loops holding the two wires holding the back of the lift. There was plenty of space in the clamps to do so and it would have made it a little cheaper and neater.
Also, the eye swivel may not even be needed. You could probably just hook the loops to the winch hook and it would be fine. But I had it laying around ... so...
Another thing is I might have used some turnbuckles to connect the down wires to the fence posts. Would help with making it easier to level the lift out.
If I changed anything I probably would have just used two wire clamps at the eye swivel and run two wires through each clamp. One clamp for the making the wire loops for the two wires holding the front of the lift, and one clamp for making the wire loops holding the two wires holding the back of the lift. There was plenty of space in the clamps to do so and it would have made it a little cheaper and neater.
Also, the eye swivel may not even be needed. You could probably just hook the loops to the winch hook and it would be fine. But I had it laying around ... so...
Another thing is I might have used some turnbuckles to connect the down wires to the fence posts. Would help with making it easier to level the lift out.
This post was edited on 6/20/19 at 1:54 am
Posted on 6/20/19 at 2:15 am to NATidefan
Also, some of the most difficult parts of the jobs were...
1. The measurements... if you dont have help to hold your tape measure alot I recommend a laser measuring device. Like 30 bucks from a big box store and I wish I had bought one sooner.
2. Mounting the winch... I had to take it apart to mount it. Take some good pics so you know how to put it back together and avoid taking the spring off if possible.
3. Getting it level... the wire and the whole system is going to give and slip on you when you first put weight on the lift bars. Make sure you lean on them well and get all the slack out. Then go back and readjust the wire loops clamps to level the system up. Like mentioned above... some turnbuckles would make this easier.
4. Mounting the 2x6's to the ceiling... make sure you have a set of helping hands or two for this. Hard to hold a long 2x6 above your head in place... and then drive in a long lag bolt with a drill.
5. Have a really good stud finder. I don't... even though it has that deep scan bullshite... finding the center of ceiling joist through the popcorn ceiling was probably the hardest part. Had to poke some unwanted holes to do so.
1. The measurements... if you dont have help to hold your tape measure alot I recommend a laser measuring device. Like 30 bucks from a big box store and I wish I had bought one sooner.
2. Mounting the winch... I had to take it apart to mount it. Take some good pics so you know how to put it back together and avoid taking the spring off if possible.
3. Getting it level... the wire and the whole system is going to give and slip on you when you first put weight on the lift bars. Make sure you lean on them well and get all the slack out. Then go back and readjust the wire loops clamps to level the system up. Like mentioned above... some turnbuckles would make this easier.
4. Mounting the 2x6's to the ceiling... make sure you have a set of helping hands or two for this. Hard to hold a long 2x6 above your head in place... and then drive in a long lag bolt with a drill.
5. Have a really good stud finder. I don't... even though it has that deep scan bullshite... finding the center of ceiling joist through the popcorn ceiling was probably the hardest part. Had to poke some unwanted holes to do so.
This post was edited on 6/20/19 at 2:30 am
Posted on 6/20/19 at 7:06 am to NATidefan
Great job. Looking to do a similar setup for our kayaks.
Posted on 6/20/19 at 7:21 am to NATidefan
How much do you charge?
Posted on 6/20/19 at 8:15 am to NATidefan
we did something similar but much simpler. installed 4 eye hooks in ceiling. 2 at each end of kayak. Bought 2 tie downs with cam buckles instead of ratchet and hooked each one to 2 of the eye hooks. Hangs down to about 4' high on each end creating a "cradle". I slide kayak in then pull the cam buckles until kayak is nestled flush with ceiling over garage door track. Cost: A little less than $20
only pic I have on my phone: LINK
Basically did this: YouTube Video
only pic I have on my phone: LINK
Basically did this: YouTube Video
This post was edited on 6/20/19 at 9:23 am
Posted on 6/20/19 at 10:52 am to NATidefan
Awesome info. Thank you for sharing!
Posted on 6/20/19 at 2:58 pm to SirSaintly
Yeah I watched that video when I was planning what to do with mine. Mine is a little over kill possibly. But my kayak was 64 pounds and my girlfriends is smaller but still pretty hefty. I wanted a easy way to get them up and down that she could do if I wasnt around because I work out of town some.
Plus I just felt like the steal cable would hold up better over time and I wouldn't have to worry about it falling. Would have been easier and cheaper though.
Plus it was fun to plan and do!
Plus I just felt like the steal cable would hold up better over time and I wouldn't have to worry about it falling. Would have been easier and cheaper though.
Plus it was fun to plan and do!
This post was edited on 6/20/19 at 2:59 pm
Posted on 6/21/19 at 12:09 pm to fishfighter
Yeah, I looked at those. Weight capacity is 44 lbs. My kayak is 64. That would be pushing for most kayaks in general. Plus I wasnt sure it was going to get the boat high enough from videos I watched.
Posted on 6/21/19 at 1:38 pm to NATidefan
looks a bit way over complicated to be honest, you had the right idea but there is no need for steel cables and lifting rack.
just use the pulleys and 1/4" nylon rope add then use straps to loop around the kayaks and a clip to connect to the pulleys ropes and your done, no need for cross bars and wire cables for such a small load. you have more weight in the rig you created to hold them then you do for just the kayaks
great job getting creative and as long as it works your set, just could have been a much much simpler design.
you also wouldnt have needed the winch since your only lifting and supporting one kayak at a time, and me personally i would have put them in the opposite direction so they are not over the door.
the way you set it up, to get them down the door needs to be closed, but then you have the trouble of getting them off the rack with a closed door in your way and after you get them off, you have to climb over/around them in your way to raise the lift again so you can open the door to get them out.
again, im not poo-pooing your rig, it works for you so, but im just pointing out a few things that would greatly simplify it and make it easier to be able to load and unload with the garage door open so in the future if you wanted to redesign it, you have some ideas
just use the pulleys and 1/4" nylon rope add then use straps to loop around the kayaks and a clip to connect to the pulleys ropes and your done, no need for cross bars and wire cables for such a small load. you have more weight in the rig you created to hold them then you do for just the kayaks
great job getting creative and as long as it works your set, just could have been a much much simpler design.
you also wouldnt have needed the winch since your only lifting and supporting one kayak at a time, and me personally i would have put them in the opposite direction so they are not over the door.
the way you set it up, to get them down the door needs to be closed, but then you have the trouble of getting them off the rack with a closed door in your way and after you get them off, you have to climb over/around them in your way to raise the lift again so you can open the door to get them out.
again, im not poo-pooing your rig, it works for you so
, but im just pointing out a few things that would greatly simplify it and make it easier to be able to load and unload with the garage door open so in the future if you wanted to redesign it, you have some ideasThis post was edited on 6/21/19 at 1:39 pm
Posted on 6/21/19 at 7:51 pm to NATidefan
quote:
Yeah, I looked at those. Weight capacity is 44 lbs. My kayak is 64. That would be pushing for most kayaks in general. Plus I wasnt sure it was going to get the boat high enough from videos I watched.
Daughter and SIL have been hanging two 12' wood pirogues on a set of those HF bike hangers a good 7 years.
Posted on 6/21/19 at 11:51 pm to keakar
quote:
just use the pulleys and 1/4" nylon rope add then use straps to loop around the kayaks and a clip to connect to the pulleys ropes and your done, no need for cross bars and wire cables for such a small load. you have more weight in the rig you created to hold them then you do for just the kayaks
The steal cable was 13 dollars, nylon rope was 10. Nylon rope was rated for 100 lbs, steal cable was rate for 1500 lbs...
quote:
no need for cross bars and wire cables for such a small load.
I had the cross bars (fence posts) already at the house when I bought it. It was a good use for them.
quote:
you also wouldnt have needed the winch since your only lifting and supporting one kayak at a time,
I guess you missed the part about my girlfriends will be going on it as well and the fact I work out of town some and I wanted something she could raise and lower easily.
quote:
the way you set it up, to get them down the door needs to be closed, but then you have the trouble of getting them off the rack with a closed door in your way and after you get them off, you have to climb over/around them in your way to raise the lift again so you can open the door to get them out.
Yep, but pretty much any other spot would have them landing on the lawnmower, future workbench I have planned, the fridge, deep freeze, or blocking my ceiling lights, etc.
quote:
again, im not poo-pooing your rig
Yes you are. Cause you like other people on the internet always think you are smarter than everyone else.
I put alot of thought into this project and did it this way for a reason.
This post was edited on 6/21/19 at 11:55 pm
Posted on 6/22/19 at 12:01 am to fishfighter
quote:
Daughter and SIL have been hanging two 12' wood pirogues on a set of those HF bike hangers a good 7 years. ?
Good for them, but I'm not parking my car under something that's holding weight 1.5 times over what its rated for.
This post was edited on 6/22/19 at 12:02 am
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